salokcinnodrog

Also try cutting the Fluorocarbon into a Point for threading back through the Hook Eye. Tying onto the swivel I use the Loop knot recommended in the Kryston Packaging. Stick up a search as there was a pic for it posted not that long ago.

I have found that the majority of hooklink Materials loop up, its caused by the tension of the Swivel Knot, so a loop knot may help. I have found that it can be worth putting little pieces of Putty down the hooklink to get it to fall over.

Had you removed any of the Coating? The section that you remove the coating from may get air trapped between the fibres. If this is a problem give it a rub with some Putty, or squeeze it out when its wet.

http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17291 Should be a pic on that thread link.

I splice it at both ends and then tie it to the Mainline with a Uni knot. At the rig end I have a large splice so I can just "loop to loop" the hooklink on and change rigs in seconds. I'll find a pic or link and put that on here.

I get green Hair Stops for nothing, the complete tags. I can't remember the last time I actually bought any.

You can strip as much or as little of the coating as you want. Try a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17011/s.html couple of rig pics on here, the second is a coated braid, but as you can see I have taken none of the coating off the hooklink. I don't like a loop to a quick Change link, I worry about security and have actually had a couple of rigs slip off quick change links. On one of the leadcore threads, if you have a search, is a pic of my quick change rig method.

It needed it. Litter was a major problem there and the whole Lake used to be Rat City

The 2 biggest that were in Days Lake died last year(?), and were normally coming out at mid 30's. In fact I think that there were only 7 fish in there in Total. It is very weedy, and only has about 7/8 swims. Not many features, but quite a few lily beds on the first swims to the left.

Yes you can use Mini bags or Fishnet PVA on a Heli rig. If you attach them to the Lead then your feed may be a little way away from the Hookbait though. You can attach PVA to the hook though If you use really small bags about the size of a 50p piece and get the Bait and some freebies in the Pva it works nicely, just get it as round as possible.

I'm not going to fish it, but I know quite a bit about the Lakes. What Lake were you planning on Fishing and what do you want to know about it?

Only problem with the V shaped ones is they can pull through a Bait.

Personally I would dump one of the swivels. Either tie your rig to a Quick Link type clip or tie your rig to a swivel and dump the one on the Leadcore. I actually splice Leadcore at the Hooklink end, just leaving a loop that I can put the Hooklink swivel on in seconds when I change rigs.

Definately the Withy Rig and the original, made before Shrink Tubing was easily available. The hook is a Size 6 Carp-R-Us Centurion.

Soft braid works well with Withy Rig. Have a look at this thread: http://www.carp.com/forum/t17011/s.html Decent Withy rig pic on here

Why do I think that we went to the same school of Fishing knowledge? lol. Many of your thoughts seem to be along the same lines as mine.

Again Not necessarily. My choice of Hook Pattern is dictated mostly by whether I'm using a Pop-up or not. For Pop-ups I prefer to use Long Shank Hooks, yet for Bottom Baits I like short shank hooks like the Standard Carp-r-Us Nailers, Centurions, Owner FLB's and the Like. If I use a Pop-up I normally switch to the Longshank Nailers and also some Nash Outpoint Hooks I bought Years ago. Although I do fish Snowman presentations with Short Shanks Hooks. Any hook can have the Shank Length extended by the use of Tubing or Shrink Tube and its easy enough just to set it up with a Line Aligner.

Not necessarily. I try to use the opposite of what other Anglers are using. Most are using Fluoro's and Mono at the moment so I'm still using Braids and Coated Braids. I have found that Braid is more supple than Mono and Fluoro's and in my mind because of this harder to eject as it crumples rather than staying stiff. Yet as we progress from mono onto braid and forwards this suppleness can lead to missed runs. It is simply the fact that I'm fishing differently to the majority of other Anglers as to why I stick with Braids. With Braid it is a matter of seconds to change the hooklength and Hairlength. I've also found, probably down to practice, that I can tie Braided Hooklengths in seconds, a lot faster than I can tie a mono/Fluorocarbon link.

The amount of experiments I did on a Runs water last year between trips on my Big Fish water, strangely enough it was always the simple rigs that worked on the Runs Water. This is a water that is heavily fished by the Match Style Anglers. Simple rigs and baiting situations beat the "Complicated Rigs" hands down. I actually lost a couple of fish on the more "advanced" presentations where I had been playing around. Running Lead and Paternostered rigs definately produced the most strikable indications. I also found that on very short Stiff type presentations produced more lost fish than anything as well. My feelings are that the Carp were being hooked at the extreme edge of the Lip and as I was playing them the hook worked free. Yet to lengthen the rig and switch to braid produced more fish without loss.

I agree entirely. I look on any Blank as I got something wrong. Ok on a 167 acre water I can get location entirely wrong, but its down to me not thinking my way into fish. You proved my point entirely, you had fish in front and were able to work out how to hook them, by Just shortening your rigs you have done something different.

Sorry to attach the hook I still use a Knotless Knot.

I like the Loop Knot that is pictured on the Kryston Packing, never had it fail.

Thats what amazes me, why the Head scratching? Just by altering the Hair length or rig length then many problems can be overcome. No rig is going to work every time and hook every fish, but just by changing one of those things you create a NEW set of Circumstances for the Carp to deal with. No Matter what though, No rig will work in the slightest if it isn't anywhere near a Carp, its LOCATION that is the error in most cases, not the Rig

I, me, personally have never used it, and after watching a close friend of mine lose a big fish on it when it sheared under pressure I won't. He had played a fish out from under Lilies and then for no apprent reason it just gave way in open water. He later put a Carp on the bank from exactly the same spot that was 20lbs+ that Fought exactly the same. The fish he landed was caught on a 15lb Amnesia hooklink.

Ian, From the description you have given that sounds the same as the BFA Deception that was about a few(?) years ago. I've posted a pic of a Withy rig tied on it that I'm using on a water that has Crayfish in it. Unfortunately the colour doesn't show up very well, but I have noticed it doesn't show up in the water either. Nailers, Yes they are Sharp. Now you know why I like them so much, and very strong for their size. If you think they are good, have a look at the Centurions, slightly stronger, but same sort of shape as Owner FLB's.