salokcinnodrog

Yes i can see your thinking here so who knows? Lets be honest, the only way any of us are gonna know how our leaders look on the bottom is to don a pair of flippers and air tanks and dive down to actually look at them ourselves. Which has to be said i would love to do. Have swum free over Leaders and compared the differences between that and tubing. Its a long time ago, but the results are somewhere in the forum. Think it was on a Ladcore vs Tubing debate. Also Fluorocarbon leaders at some light levels are still visible. I think that is mentioned on the Colour Vision thread. *leadcore*. I was going to edit the original typo , but just think that Ladcore is a good word

May be worth typing Maggot rigs in as a search as there were a few threads about Maggot rigs recently and in the long distant past

Walked up to the owner and said, "Excuse me, how much does it cost to fish here and what are the Rules you stipulate? Is there any chance I would be allowed to fish your lakes?"

Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich 5 miles from ipswich eh! right google earth time Good job I haven't told in which direction , around Ipswich it looks like the Printer has spilled Blue Ink on the Map (Rod Hutchinson)

Fraid not, its my Secret Water about 5miles away from Ipswich

I forgot I had this on the PC, taken early on one of my Unknown water trips. Just loved the Blue sky and the view first thing.

The only way to find out if a rig works is to try it and compare results with your usual rigs. Preferably on a water where you will get plenty of runs. Be aware though that Carp feed differently on different waters, so what works on one water may not necessarily work on another. One of my Runs waters I can catch fish on basic braid rigs, but get complicated then the Carp don't get caught. There are few Combi rigs pictured in the Rig Tying Sticky, some with swivels in and some with a straight knot join, although most are with a Stiff Upper section and a supple last mini-link.

You saw it in a mag? Ive been doing it this way for the past 18 months. I expect the angler in question claimed it was all his idea as well When in truth, its common sense really. I have caught one or two on it but then again its hard when the nuisance fish in my water smash your maggots to pieces inside 20 minutes. Been doing it for years. Much better than those awful blunt Maggot Klips that burst every maggot you try to put on them. The Medusa rig does work well. If you put enough maggots on it, it can actually almost jump along the bottom due to the movement of the maggots.

You got it!

I've not used a Fluorocarbon leader, but have used Amnesia. Mostly for Maximum Range casting. As for the bead stop a piece of Powergum makes a good back stop.

Welcome to the Forum. Neil Wayte mentions some Kent Rivers/Canals in his book River Carping. The Medway is mentioned as as the Royal Military Canal. Some of the fishing on the Royal Military Canal is controlled by the Cinqueports Angling Society: http://www.cinqueportsanglingsociety.org That may give you a start Nick

no mate, and they have the same problem, impossible to tighten down to them but korda leads coating isnt exactly coarse is it, thats a smooth plastic coating, also, once the diamond lead thing has been dragged about a bit, not gonna be so invisible anymoe,if they are, scatches and gouges will hold debris and stuff. read the whole thread before you jump in with a comment that is totally out of context and as for clear hooks, well yet again read the posts. total farce eh you can comment on the leads when you have been using them for the last twelve months and have an informed view The Leads view is probably better put on this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22174

Don't think that with some hard skinned pop-ups you would be able to squeeze air out of them. Depends on how you want to do it. Sometimes I just cut a pop-up in half and then trim the bottom bait or the pop-up until I get the balance right, sometimes add putty to the hook. Or if I want a pop-up that is sat exactly on the bottom, and critically balanced then I use a choice from some of the rigs pictured in the Rig Tying Sticky at the top of the section. The offshoot of the hookknot or the knotless knot tag end is the perfect place to add shot and/or putty. Basically the more ways you know to do something then the more adaptable you can be if you need to get something done

That maybe the case but the carps eyesight gets worse in winter, so they kind of balance things out. No need to scale down. Staying with 6s and 8s. Thats true about the eyesight, maybe, but their sucking may be reduced so it can pay to use a smaller lighter hook to compensate. Saying that I tend to use the same rigs winter or summer. If I use pop-ups/critically balanced baits though I get them absolutely spot on perfect, and its checked in the margins, not a water tub!

brutalbaz In that case have a word with Mrs_rusheslake. Its a fishery I have never heard a bad word about and a few members have been if you look at past threads (or use the search facility). Have heard a few people came close to reeling in though to get some rest Hope it helps Nick

Hi Mate, Welcome to the forum I don't know if any of the fisheries on the link below are any use to you? http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19962 I know for a fact that Mrs_rusheslake if you PM her will give you an honest answer regarding their fishery and how its fishing. I don't know however if it contains cats. There is a link and e-mail to many fisheries on that thread.

Cheers Mate

Like its been said before on this forum, on others and in print, most rigs are designed for a particular water or set of fish in particular. Its when a particular rig/set-up gets shown or put into print without a TRUE Explanation of why it is in use or what is what designed for, that that rig possibly becomes dangerous. Most "awkward" to tie rigs are designed for BIG Fish, it is when "that" rig gets used on smaller fish, or as Levi has pointed out, Carp get bullied or played hard then the rig can cause damage. In most cases a Basic Line Aligner or Knotless Knot set-up will hook the Carp effectively and safely. Even on that basic rig it is possible to change the parameters that the Carp encounter. The most obvious are the hair length and the hooklink length. The next step on from the basic hair is either Rod Hutchinson's sliding Hair or Roger Smith's D-Rig. Both were designed for wary feeding fish that were mouthing the bait, and in the right situation will continue to catch. In fact if you look at the D-rig set-up it makes for a very good Pop-up rig, due, I think, to the way that the bait can be blown out along the D, leaving the hook to drop into the lip.

Here's something for you to start you off: http://www.fishsoutheast.co.uk/venueskentbarden.htm http://www.tonbridge-angling.co.uk/barden%20lake.html

I seem to remember you asking about Barden Lake in October and had few replies on the topic. It may be worth looking up Tonbridge Angling Club and see if they have any details on the Lake on their website. The alternative is to get down there and have a look around if you are allowed and talk to other anglers who are fishing it. Sorry, you are likely to have to get off your backside and do some homework on the water and see what is working best, also you are likely to have to experiment on the water and see what works for you There are plenty of Rig Pics in here: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?p=300890#300890 bottom, critically balanced and pop-up rigs Some of the Lead set-ups are also useful for fishing in weed. Next thing is, you want your bait where the fish are feeding. No point in fishing pop-ups 2inches off the bottom if the fish want the bait on the lakebed. Same if they are comfortable feeding in the weed, then a bait on the lakebed may well get ignored. Unfortunately its down to you to find out what works on there, and although we may be able to give you some ideas, the hard work is down to you!

To me the Method is a Semi-Fixed Lead rig, in other words a Bolt Rig, as that is what the rig is designed to do, cause the fish to "bolt". The "Method" was banned on many waters as the original way of using it included Elastic running through the middle of the feeder. If there was a snap-off then a carp was doomed to trail a feeder around with it. Now the Method pretty much just refers to an Inline Groundbait Feeder. There are a couple of ways of getting round this, and are totally legal. An Inline Lead, covered in groundbait gives the same presentation as a Method Feeder, you can fix a Lead Pendant style (the trilobe leads are good for holding groundbait on) Or a PVA Bag full of groundbait attached to the lead with the hook nicked into the bottom corner of the bag. By the same token as banning Method feeders, does the club ban the original Open framefeeder? This was exactly the same as a Method feeder, but fished free running as you would a normal groundbait feeder?

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24666

http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=30745&highlight=360 Try reading that thread!

Its a thing called confidence If you are confident in what you are doing, then you are more likely to catch. Incidentally I don't subscribe to the colouring a hook in with a marker, simply because of the hook being covered by the bait or debris.

Mantis for me too, although I do use SnakeBite at times. Mantis is the Braid one and Snakeskin is Multi Strand. SnakeBite is also good and again a braided inner.