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salokcinnodrog

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Everything posted by salokcinnodrog

  1. Right I have edited this thread to remove the digs. I just removed a load of posts, so something that may have been pertinent might need to be retyped and reposted. In other words THINK before you reply, Insults, Digs and Swearing WILL NOT be tolerated There is nothing in there that needs anyone to fire off at. Goblin and I made the point that basic rigs may work best if you can get the feeding and location right. Goblin even complimented you on your thinking and working on a theory. Also we gave you the idea that it may need experimenting with, fishing it alongside a basic rig to see which catches best. Any "tat" rig may catch fish if IT IS PUT IN THE RIGHT PLACE, where the Carp are feeding comfortably. Lets keep to the topic.
  2. Lol, You should see the amount I experiment and try things out I came up with a Pop-up rig that I think is unique. The weight of the material used to tie the pop-up on was the actual counterbalance to hold it down. The pics are in the Sticky at the top of the Rig Tying section of the forum. Strange I didn't use it yesterday while I was playing around on my Runs Water, but I was more concerned with comparing Lead set-ups.
  3. I don't think that the bait near the lip will be able to indicate which bait the Carp picked up. The Hook will position itself in the lip in the fight. As to the rig's effectiveness, I'm not sure about it. I know in the past that someone tried the hair in front of the eye, so the bait was positioned in front of the point of the hook. Don't forget though, if you feed right then the carp will often pick up the most basic rig going.
  4. Just a quick point, Helicopters give the worst Bite Indication and lead to more ejected/aborted takes
  5. Oh Gawd, don't get me on the helicopter rigs debate, they are limited in their applications. SHOULD NOT be used in Weedy waters, they do not offer the best of indications, http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640, in fact with how I attach my leads should I need them to break free . I have not found the Lead to get snagged with an inline in weed. The weed normally slides over the lead, and then down to the fishes head, which covers its eyes, in many cases it then comes free. Next point on those 2 threads is how I attach my Running leads if I need the Lead to come free, use a paper clip. Really about Lead clips and their uses we should be discussing on those threads
  6. I don't want it to! Like I was trying to explain there are times when you don't want or need the lead to discharge. I don't use that set-up in weedy waters, (I prefer Inlines). If I get a snap off, which is likely to be above the lead, then the Bead and Tubing pulls free from the swivel. In fact it is very rare that I use Lead Clips at all, as the majority of my fishing is with Running Leads. With Running Leads, again, if I get a snap off then the Lead is free running and comes off the line easily.
  7. In which case why do you need a lead clip then? If you don't need the lead to discharge then a Lead clip is not an essential, there are other ways of holding the Lead on. I used this method for years with no problems:
  8. In many cases they don't! Not always down to the Lead Clip working incorrectly, it can be used wrongly, the rubber can be held on too tight by being pushed on too far, or the lead clip may not have been trimmed back. In some cases a Lead Clip may not even be needed at all. If you want to use a Lead Clip then in my view the Carp-R-Us ones are the best. Adding a length of line to the Lead clip the line can pull the Rubber free, or will breal on the cast. Consider that with a 3oz lead you can be creating a force of 30lbs! So a length of half lb mono is likely to break. If you don't use a Lead clip then tying the lead on with a weak link has been used for years. It can be tied on at casting with PVA to hold it during the cast As with all read the Instructions.
  9. On the occasions I use stiff rigs then I tend to use Clear Amnesia.
  10. Thread moved to Fishing in France section. It may pay to read the Stickies at the top of the Section and see if anything suitable presents itself
  11. Lol, I doubt my Brand is of Lower Quality, its ESP! I have looked over the roots of lilies that were dragged out and they were covered in young mussels. I have since looked over the Sensor Mono and had to replace some of it due to wear, so the Leadcore obviously was cutting in more than the mono? I don't think that Braid is actually as Abrasion Resistant as Mono in many cases. All I know at the moment that on the Lake in question I am really struggling on Leadcore and on Mono. I've used Leadcore on Reservoirs with very little silt, and a mostly gravel bottom and had far better results on that than on the Tubing End Tackle Rods
  12. Tackle Box sell it, think it was one of their specials originally .
  13. I'm not sure it does prevent Cut-offs on Bars. I think in some cases it actually increases the risks as the line is lower in the water. As for near snags, I view it as a complete NO NO! (As I have probably stated on some of the other threads) I have been debating its use at the moment and I had a Smash up with Leadcore on Thursday last week. The Leadcore was totally worn through on a Lily Root that had broken from the Main Patch and was embedded in the Lake Bed. Yet the Mono as it was not textured but smooth was wearing and rubbing over the Root. The Lead core was cutting and being worn. I know that the Lead was able to break free on the Running set-up, as I reeled in about a metre of Leadcore that had been rubbed through and the Running Lead Ring was not attached to the line. So somewhere in the Lake the most the Carp is dragging around is a 15cm hooklink and a swivel with 5cms of Leadcore, from just above the splice
  14. There are plenty of Leadcore Threads, these may offer some more opinions: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=28497 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24280 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22497
  15. Please can you read this Link: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=24442 I have edited Posts that contain weblinks. Any information on links should be PM'd. This thread is for Anglers experiences and answers on a Venue. Final Point, do any of these help: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=19962
  16. You tie a basic Rig either Line aligned or knotless knotted. Then you get a piece of line and loop it over the point behind the barb. On that piece of line you put a shot. The name of the Rig, probably something along the lines of: SHOT ON THE HOOK RIG!
  17. Think you should have done a Search! I have posted as much as I know on the venue in the past on at least 3 threads!
  18. Mrs_Rusheslake (Kim) is a member of this and another forum. If you PM her see what she tells you about the Lake I have never heard a bad word against the fishery. This is direct from the French Fisheries Sticky at the top of the French Section
  19. Thats all well and good if you know how to tie a knotless knot. Hope Nicks (salokcinnodrog) link helps... Same link as Gaz, he beat me to it by seconds
  20. Trust me, my toys are firmly in my Pram, and my Dummy in my mouth, although you keep on like that and they won't be and it won't be me who suffers:twisted: Location using a Bait Boat makes no odds, it doesn't need mentioning. Its just as easy to put a Bait in the wrong place with a Bait Boat as it is to miscast by casting. In fact I would bet my Casting against any Bait Boat. I gave you my views on Hooklink Material, the quote is mine from another thread on Rig Camouflage Their is NO right or wrong Rig material, just find one that you are comfortable with and you catch Carp on. I'd say that is the be all and end all, but its not; You also have to get the Lead Set-up arrangements right as well. Carp may be sussing out "your" Semi-Fixed Lead Tight Line set-up, so you may have to get onto Slack Lines and Running Leads, or Paternoster Set-ups.
  21. Boults, Nice to see that you are thinking your way into your fishing. (thats not a sarcastic remark, just that not enough people try to think their way around a problem before diving straight onto the local source of "free" knowledge) I see what you are saying, but the hair length need not be short and the bait tight to the hook with Shrink Tubing. That is just the way that the majority of people are fishing at the moment. If you look at my other rigs on the Sticky, you can see that I change the hair length dependant on my findings The Rig I have pictured is one I have been using with a 15mm Boilie on the hair; When the Bait is on the hair it actually comes to just past the Loop Knot, so I have a longer hair than standard (or different to other anglers). When I get to a New Water I tend to find out what has been used before and then go on from that. If the water is lightly fished then I have a very short hair, the bait almost "shank mounted" (tight to the back of the hook on a short hair), then as I check hookholds and possible dropped runs etc I lengthen the hair and or the hooklink. In the same way a poor hookhold can be caused by too short a hooklength, the hook and bait is prevented from going into the Carp's mouth because the hooklink (hooklength) is not long enough. This too short a hooklink can be responsible for not getting a good hookhold, or even for not getting takes or a series of individual bleeps that don't develop. If you look at your hookholds when you land a fish and even on lost fish you can decide whether your rig is right. If the hook is embedded firmly at the back of the bottom lip, then your rig is just about perfect. If its close to the front or you are losing fish then the hook may be pr1cking the fish too early. If the Carp is hooked at the back of the mouth then the rig may be too long.
  22. The most basic simple rig will catch on the hardest water if you have the main 2 aspects right. The first and most important Tony has pointed out, and the 2nd is find a bait that the Carp want to eat. That quote is from this thread: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=17661 (complete with my typo from when I first posted ) http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185, This is the Sticky that 666 refers to. Believe it or not for the majority of my fishing I still use a basic Line aligner rig. I don't think that I have changed set-ups for over 15years! The only thing I do change is the length of the hair and the length of the hooklink. This pic below is actually one of my rigs and I have caught many fish on this style of rig, to 28lbs from a variety of venues. Braid Line Aligner with Shrink Tubing:
  23. The Bait boat makes no flipping odds. Bait Boats are another issue totally and should be kept to the Bait Boat threads. To be honest by mentioning it you have put a lot of people off Its a Love/Hate topic and I think more, me included Hate Them! This is my reply basically on another thread. You cannot catch fish that aren't in the area, so my advice to you is concentrate on locating the Carp, then get a Bait that they are confident eating. You make no mention of what bait you are using. If its those Overflavoured, Hi Attract pop-ups, then they may be working against you. You would be far better to get onto a Food Source Bait and applying it properly and pre-bait with it. The Carp's confidence in the bait will increase and probably so will your results. If the Carp's confidence in the bait is high and they are happy eating it, then in most cases it doesn't matter a flying fig what your Rig is!
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