salokcinnodrog

I think this has opened up a number of points or even mini topics! I have a number of thoughts going on in my head, and I can't put them all into words at the moment, so if this seems disjointed I'm sorry. Air dried baits take on water faster than frozen baits I think, which means they go softer faster as well. If there is no moisture in a bait, then it goes in faster, takes on water, than if there is moisture in a bait as per frozen. It likely means they will appear washed out faster than a standard frozen bait. If you are rehydrating with a liquid, then you will be adding additional attractors and changing the bait in some way, which may neutralise some of its original properties, but increase something new by increasing the liquid attractors, which may or will leach out into the surrounding water. A vs B, a good bait which (should) work to a bait which has more attraction in liquid form. Which is better a food bait or a liquid attractor and food bait? A good food bait should work on its own merits, attractive and a food that the carp search for. Do you use the same rehydrating liquid every time? If one session you rehydrate in hempy water, and catch, then the next session in CSL water and blank was it the rehydration that caused the catch or the blank? You may be confusing yourself! Are you using the rehydration to avoid pre-baiting, or to change your bait because everyone is using the same bait? I think shelf life's have come on in leaps and bounds in the past few years, from a basic attractor bait, almost relying on the flavour to catch, at a higher level than normal, to the same bait as the frozen. There are many shelf life's and freezer baits that are now on the same base! Nutrabaits Trigga, Big Fish Mix, Solar Seafood Takeaway, Crafty Catcher King Prawn are baits that are available in both shelfie and frozen, but there are others. I think the preserving method of shelf life's is now air drying, then a sugar/glycerol liquid dip. This will likely stop or slow down glugging them in many liquids, and prevent 'rehydrating' them, there is almost impermeable layer on them. Any glug will stay on the outside as opposed to soaking in. I happily use a mix of Shelf life's and Frozen. My Shelf Life's are slightly harder than the same bait in frozen, so on crayfish free waters, I use that shelfie as a hookbait as it doesn't soften as quickly as the frozen, suggesting that frozen baits break down faster, which is something that doesn't appear to have changed over time. Shelf life's often/usually appear to be more instantly attractive than frozen, in the same recipe. This is something that various anglers have commented and written on; Gary Bayes, Ken Townley and others have all written articles about how the shelf life of the bait they have used can be more instantly attractive than the freezer bait, but both work in the longer term. Is the instant attraction from the sugar/glycerine dip? For years when I made my own baits I had a preference for glycerol/glycerine based flavours, I felt that the glycerine was more acceptable than other solvent bases, but was the glycerine an attractor in its own right?

I don't bother rehydrating air dried baits, I use them as they are, rock solid. Why change what I started with? I usually use a mix of air dried, frozen and shelf life's in the same bait. The exception to this is my hookbaits, which are glugged or soaked in Marine 17. Air dried baits I am certain take on water faster than frozen, actually making them softer than frozen boilies at a faster rate. Catapult incidents? The number of times I manage to spray myself with misfired maggots, boilies or mixers. And almost every start with a throwing stick sees a few splash down in the near margin...

I can always point you to what I use in Delkim ST's with the ATTx dongles and receiver, but that may be way out of budget at £80 + per buzzer then the ATTx system at whatever that costs now. There are definitely cheaper options, and possibly one of the best could well be the TFG Dave Lane Magrunners, I think going for around £80 for 3 alarms and receiver. As said, the adjustable sensitivity could well be a luxury, but I have found that with tight lines and semi-fixed leads that a single bleep at maximum sensitivity is worth investigation. With running leads and slack lines, any indicator should give proper notice, a decent run. I also use my Delks for pike, roach, tench and bream fishing. While roach fishing earlier in the year, a single bleep lead to a number of fish.

Abbreviated handle, basically just the reel seat with a bit of duplon or shrink tube along at the butt. Full handle, the reel seat and then duplon or cork all along to the butt end. Proper tarty is a set of rods with full cork

I know the River Soar received a comprehensive chapter in Neil Waytes River Carping when that was published a few years ago, with some spots, rigs and baits etc. One thing I have found in keeping crayfish at bay, armour or stocking mesh does not always work, the big Signals will cut through it, even in four layers deep around your baits, and at Armormesh £10 a pop is an expensive way to deal with it! On Nazeing I had to resort to drilled wooden balls soaked in bait dip, in my case an emulsifier/sweetener, Marine 17 liquid and Hold'em Liquid. The Hold'em Liquid is an aniseed based oil used for holding game birds in your feeding area. You may be able to avoid Crays if you fish areas that are more silty rather than hard bottomed.

http://www.solar24-7.co.uk/baitshop/titanium-indicator-range/product/t9-titanium-indicator---long-arm-system-2 http://www.solar24-7.co.uk/baitshop/titanium-indicator-range/product/t1-titanium-indicator---short-arm-system-2 Everything you need all in one

And they work for long range feeder fishing, even with big roach

I seem to recall that he did not get swans swimming through the line like they did with more neutral colours... Matt Hayes at the time was the face of TFG, and the line was or is the Nan-Tec lines I think. It is still available I reckon you'll find. Monster Squid Purple, I have caught a few fish on the mini pop-ups, with the pop-up as the top bait on a snowman over my fishmeal boilie, and a couple of tench on the pop-ups alone. Isn't it that as the light disappears underwater that colours no longer show up, but the item shows up as black?

I rarely get my buzzer bars level, I look later and then try to push the high side down As for reel handles, I rarely bother, although all the bail arms do have to be lined up at the top, which is actually more of a bite indication thing than any aesthetics The one thing I do try to get perfectly flat and level is my bedchair! Monkey climbers are handy if you want some resistance in your set-up when a fish takes, whereas most of us want minimal resistance, hence the switch back to hanging indicators. A big heavy monkey on a needle is probably still pretty good on a long range set-up, where you get a drop back on a take, almost the heavier the better, but the same effect can be created by a spring or tension arm indicator and if a fish does take line at range, then the springer should come unclipped. I don't think that swingers are as good for long range, may just be me though!

The ESP no matter what I did gave me knuckle wrap. The elastic was too soft for any decent distance unless you pulled it back with a four foot extending arm, and the pouch just felt totally uncomfortable to load and use. The Drennan feels right, the elastic is the right thickness and length to get a reasonable distance, after changing the pouch for a smaller one it is very rare to get knuckle wrap. Yonny makes a point about Drennan elastic, I don't have an issue, but it may be because I remove the pouch and the pegs holding it on. I push the elastic through the new pouch holes, and cable tie it in place. As a habit of overkill, I also cable tie the elastic onto the arms.

Sorry, I hate the ESP Boiliepult absolutely awful, give me the Drennan Boiliepult, but change the pouch to a smaller one.

Welcome to Carp.com. I am afraid to say it, but I am sorry, you will have to do the hard work yourself. If I let any of my hard earned secrets go, my mates who are still fishing the Yare would be very upset. I will give you a clue though, get used to the search facility as there are a few older threads where some information has ended up from a few of us

I may go against the grain, in that I like using an Avon style rod for smaller carp, although that same rod has landed fish to over 20 when floater fishing, but boy did I get pooped with having to play the fish around a lily bed... I would be looking at a rod of around 1.5-2.0lb test curve if you want that same rod for tench, bream, barbel, chub and carp, but if you were using it exclusively for carp, then 2.5-2.75lb TC.

] Someone else saying the same thing is often useful, shows that other people recommend or use the same ideas

15kilo bag of Vitalin is £14.90. Brilliant mix used wet, over wet, nearly dry or as Method. Can mix in particles, boilies, chops or use neat. I had a lot of fish over Vitalin, boilies and particles from Ardleigh with it, that was carp and bream which also love it. Basically wet it about 30minutes before you use it, or add your boiled particles in juice about some sort of time. You can pour boiling water over it the night before, but I found 30 minutes good enough. If you mix and ball it, you can freeze the balls, frozen balls (ooh er Mrs ) fire out a long way without breaking up

From my physics lessons I recall that sound travels fastest through a solid, then water then air. It is down to its properties in air that we hear speech and other noises. I know that if you fish tight lines in a pretty strong wind you can hear the line 'thrumming' in the wind, same as that same wind and telegraph or power cables. Sound creates a vibration, in fact it is that vibration that you 'hear'. I'm trying to recall how many fish I have caught in stormy conditions with a tight line; one that stands out was in a gale that actually had me holding onto bivvy with one hand, and trying to play a fish with the other, as well as standing on the bivvy skirt in a strong November gale. As with any fishing, I wonder if I fished tight lines how many it scares, as opposed to fishing slack would I have the same results? Is it even possible to fish a slack line in a gale, unless you have the rod tips under the water? More room for experimentation, tight vs slack in a wind, but I honestly don't have the water, or even the time and conditions guaranteed to try it I think in that sort of fishing we have actually reached an impasse, you wouldn't want to be diving in that, you wouldn't be able to even fish a slack line if conditions are ripping any slack line up.

They weren't there when I walked it to Pipps Ford this week. Just below the backwash I did manage a 2lb4oz chub on dog biscuit. From that swim I did notice a fairly large clawed paw print in the mud as I was returning it. I had trashed any other prints as I climbed down, but I am positive that there is an otter around, and bigger fish probably have no escape from its claws. Further upstream on a tree lined corner I also managed another at 2lb 12oz, again on dog biscuit

I don't know! I do know if you attach two paper cups to the opposite ends of a piece of string and pull the string tight, have someone speak into one cup, the other person can hear it clearly. Now both braided main lines, and Leadcore are effectively braid, so a tight line may well not be as invisible as thought, or correctly, may be invisible, but could be felt, the same as mono. The stretch or elasticity in mono, may cancel out some of the vibration, but by using tubing over the end, it is insulated, preventing vibration into the surrounding area. So fishing bow string lines may work against you, compared to semi-tight, or even slack, but tight line with semi-fixed leads will give best indication.

I had a look at the Black Label Slix bobbins today, no Fox logo on them. I know that almost every Solar bobbin has their logo on them, the IPRO's do look good, I may have to get a new set of red, white and green for myself

I can remember an Ian Poole article along those lines. He found that with rig tubing the fish weren't spooking as they did with mono or leaders. I guess that to some extent, a length of rig tubing looks a bit like a waterlogged twig or stick? Another thought that may or may not be relevant; how well does vibration pass through a tight line or leader from the rod tip to end tackle? Does this, or can this vibration or even sound be enough to put the fish on edge? Would the rig tubing absorb and reduce any vibration through the line? As we can't see sound or vibration underwater are we assuming that it is the visibility or invisibility of the line or leader that is spooking them? Would it be possible that although the fish may be able to see the rig tubing, because it is not vibrating, it is not 'creating waves' and making them as wary? On most waters from around 1992 onwards I have used tubing, with semi-fixed pendant leads, helicopter and running leads the majority of the time, although I have caught fish with and without. Tubing does protect the line from rubbing over snags, in fact I have retrieved occasionally over gravel or crayfish where my tubing has been rubbed or scratched through, and with chunks missing. The very fact I have got everything back attests to its use. I now use either Fox or Solar tubing, I honestly can't remember which brand I have left as I bought both as a complete run ring and tubing set, and grab whichever comes to hand when I replace a length.

Tiger Line seems to be the exception with fluorocarbon!

My honest answer is avoid. I will let you guess which rod manufacturer I get most rods returned with breakages

If you can fish without a leader you will be fishing more safely, especially if there is any weed or snags present I honestly think that in most cases the line at any range above 30 or 40metres is running along the lakebed anyway. Also with fluorocarbon it requires regular cleaning, and after a fish or two may require changing. Lengthwise, as short as you can get away with, so if you think two feet is long enough to hide the line then drop to that. If you are using it as a shock leader then go as long as 12feet, or your casting drop (the lead in line with rod spigot) and 4or5 turns on the reel. I much prefer tubing over leader, until this year I have stayed away from leaders for probably 9 years I reckon, fishing mono straight through either naked or with around 30-40cms of tubing and a run ring for the lead.

I thought that tungsten tubing was the answer to many prayers, until I met Reggie and Ronnie Those things will shred any tungsten, putty or tubing you name it they eat it. I have had to go back to plain anti tangle or rig tubing, and using pole fishing olivettes for pop-up weights. I used to work in an electrical wholesaler, buying a reel of 1.5 6242y and making sure I got the right manufacturer as Delta and BICC were different, just so I could take the insulation off the cables for carp fishing. Sticking the blooming stuff in a tub of boiling water to soften it for stripping the copper wire out the middle. I did used to sell extra stripped lengths to a tackle shop though Hard on the fingers? Blooming nightmare it was Fishing for years? I was fishing in the 70's, 80's, 90's, 00's and now the 10's, that is 5 decades