salokcinnodrog

Same here, and found tying knots could be a pain, it did not always knot nicely or tidily. It responds to particular knots better than others!

I use the ATTx dongles and sounder with my Delkims, and battery life can vary. I use a decent battery in the receiver, so I know I will get at least a year out of that. However the batteries for the dongles are a different matter. Some last ages, over 6months, yet others I may change every trip, depending on where I get them from Buy decent quality batteries, don't do ebay specials, get them from a decent supplier, and that does NOT always include a tackle shop (sorry!) If you buy the batteries supplied by Gardner you should be ok, but other cheapies are not as good. Probably the best place to get batteries for almost everything is possibly Maplins

Careful, mine was like that, then look what happened I'm now single, and can spend what I like...

See if you can find a 3/8 bsf threaded stem bolt or plain bolt

Gardner Pro

Plenty of treats for her IF she does find out!

Can't guarantee the tackle shop, but I can guarantee that the products shown are good

Pair of Shimano ST10000's will be around £100. You honestly don't need to go up to DL range unless you want a spare spool. Bear in mind, a number of tackle brands prices will be going up shortly!

Can I make a suggestion or multiples of? to learn more and get experience I would concentrate on one, or at most two lakes. If you fish various lakes you will not learn about a particular water and how fish respond. Almost every lake fishes differently, different fish respond to anglers and pressure differently. I would actually get one test curve of rod, not various test curves. I fish a two rod water yet always take three rods. The spare rod is rigged up ready to cast, in case I see a showing fish, or need to put a bait out in a hurry to replace one I have just reeled in. That could be cast out to either rod, the one in the margins, or the one at long range. What happens if the rod is not heavy enough test curve to hit the long distance mark? I can't guarantee it would be replacing the margin rod! I would be buying new rods and reels, not second hand. Second hand rods may suffer from previous owner abuse, or even worse, previous owner pinched. I know when I have had my tackle pinched I was devastated, I would not wish that on anyone else. I also know that my rods and reels are well used. I am regularly casting stringers to over 100metres, heavy work will soften them Most rods soften over time, what started as a 3lb may, 5 or 6 years later be 2.75 or 2.5 as it has been used and abused. If a rod is autoclaved (and not every manufacturer does), it will last longer. Cheaper carbons will also soften faster than more expensive carbon cloths. Look at Fox Warrior Rods, and I would also be looking at Shimano ST range reels, I do not trust most other makes of reels, and Shimano have never let me down. There were also Shimano deals around, Shimano Rod and reels, and to be honest, they are pretty good.

From when I was sneaking in over the park lake, this was as light as I could go for overnighters:

I have minimised my gear time and time again to cover going along my local river and for a large reservoir where on neither was using a barrow an option, although I seem to have gained loads the past few years as I can barrow or even drive to some swims. In most cases, two rods banded together around your landing net and pole make life easier, although if you need an umbrella, look at the Stalker type slings. For days only I resort to a flask of coffee and sandwiches, although in summer I change that to a bottle or two of water and some squash. I also don't bother with a chair, using my unhooking mat to sit on. Two rig bins full, along with a stalking bag goes inside my rucksack, inside that is bait, a large single layer tackle box containing end tackle, run rings, beads, a few swivels, baiting needles and braid blades. My PVA bag also contains forceps, side cutters and leads, these all then go in my rucksack. If I'm doing nights a light bivvy, I still have a Nash Outlaw Hurricane bivvy and my bedchair and sleeping bag. The whole lot can be carried, in one trip!

I had this on my lake, coots diving over my bait and giving occasional pick-ups of my hookbait. What you need is a rig which will reset itself, a very hard pop-up and your line either dead tight to a big lead, or running along the bottom. Go to a D-rig or similar, with the weight as close as you can get it to the hook, since I have crayfish to deal with I use an olivette. The plastic tubing or shrink tube at one end goes over the eye of the hook and the olivette. The other end the very small piece of silicone holds to the hooklink and the olivette.

Like most other anglers I don't choose the weather I fish in, and have to fish in what it happens to be. Find the fish and fish to them wherever they may be. Higher pressure in winter may give some sun, but dependant on which direction it has come from it may be a cold one. In winter fish may hole up in tight groups, in a particular area year after year. It may be next to weeds beds, rushes, natural food, snags or gravel bars or plateau. This area may not be out in the middle of the lake, it may actually be right next to the bank. Bait wise, I fish with the same food source boilie I have been fishing and baiting with all year, but on one rod (I can fish 3 on the Lagoons) there is always a hi-attract or boosted bait. My food bait produces most fish, but the hi-attract may produce a bonus, and is regularly recast to different areas to try to find other fish.

Nanofil is like a cross between a braid and a mono is the best way to describe it I suppose, as it is a uni-filament, like one piece of material formed into a chain if that makes sense. Now I am not sure on diameters as what we sell in the UK may well have American inches as opposed to European metric, but I do know it is thinner than mono in the same breaking strain. I haven't used it myself as I use other braids for my pike fishing, although I do know some of the roach anglers use some of the lowest diameters on Alton Reservoir when hitting feeders a long way to get into roach. Bite detection apparently improved, and casting distances are improved, but, and that is a but, a thinner line should cast further than a thicker line anyway

No Mate, Chantry. I tend to sneak down to the last few hours of daylight to avoid many of the local numpties.

I would much rather be pretty sure I will wake up alive rather than take the risk of killing myself due to carbon monoxide. You wouldn't even know you were dying, you'd never wake up. I think the fatal level It's not cheap gas, it is carbon monoxide produced by a lack of oxygen when a fuel burns, so it could be because you have cut off the air supply to your bivvy by shutting the door.

I recall one each side of the swim at Merrington, although if I remember rightly you were in the frozen north side of the lake on that occasion. Did you actually see the sun on that weekend?

That is roughly what I worked out. I recently heard of a pike unhooking mat or cradle designed on those dimensions, so it may not actually be a carp unhooking mat

It really does amuse me those who often cast to the horizon without considering the margins. I honestly can't count the number of fish I have caught on a bait lowered in, rather than cast, including two personal bests, and a couple of 30+ fish.

My local park lake is actually the opposite. The buzzer anglers nearly always cast across the lake from one side to the other to the edge of the rushes, pushing the fish into a back channel. I tend to fish Sweetcorn over Vitalin with the lift float and the centre pin. Great fun nabbing fish when the clutch screams and breaks the reverie

Centre pin, lift float with Sweetcorn as bait? Occasionally Stick float, trotting with a centre pin, maggots on the hook? Yep

You have the various Fox Supa Brolly and Supa Brolly Systems, a 50 and 60 inch version which you can get an overwrap I think. There is also the TFG Power Brolly System and TFG Oval Brolly which both take an overwrap (the same overwrap fits both). I have a mate who uses the TFG Power brolly, and have fished with him a few times, so have seen it in use and can vouch for it.

Probably Okuma They make reels for a number of tackle brands

How and what the fish are feeding over can change hair length requirements, and you may not even know what they are feeding on. You may be fishing over a previous anglers bait, be it particles, or groundbait, spod mix or boilies, or even fish troughing on bloodworm. Say your long hair rig is giving you bleeps which you can't hit, so your answer is to shorten it, and the result is a mid 20. It is quite possible that you are fishing over particles or groundbait, which is being sucked back, and in this case the hook is not following because the hair is too long for how the fish are feeding, maybe the hookbait is able to be blown out or even the hook is too heavy for the bait to be sucked in. By shortening it over particles or broken down pellets, or even mushy boilies where fish are feeding confidently, the carp are not so wary of every bait. As CM says, fish feed differently almost every day. On some days they truffle and trough over any bait, ripping the bottom up, not inspecting anything, on others they inspect absolutely everything. What type of lake and lakebed can also have some effect; you imagine that your bait is perfectly presented over a firm lakebed, sand, clay or gravel, and on such lakebed a longer hair is more easily utilised, if it's properly presented, whereas on a silty or weedy lakebed the carp aren't inspecting everything, and a shorter hair is or may be more effective. Now it gets really confusing, almost everyone straightens the hair out, as they do with most of the hooklink as well, either by dragging back, or by using a piece of dissolving foam to keep the hair tangle free from the hook. In fact you may want the bait tight to the hook on the cast and touchdown to the lakebed, but able to extend afterwards, so you want the hair PVA'd or the nugget holding it to the back of the hook, and the bait close to the shank. If it is already extended, then on 'suck', the bait can't be drawn to the carps mouth, and as it twitches, you get a bleep or two as a short bit of line is pulled through the lead clip. By the hair and bait being tight, not extended and able to be sucked in, you create some confidence.

The hair length needs to be considered relevant to the size of the fish. A 20lb carp has approximately 4inches to the back of the throat I guess, a 10lb fish probably half that. Rod Hutchinson actually measured it for the invention of the extending hair rig he invented with a 28lb fish.