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I agree with you on knots, different materials work best with different knots. Even mono, some are grinner/uni knot, others are blood knot, although almost everything works with a palomar. I would not use anything other than 3 turn blood knot or Rapala loop knot with Amnesia. Fluorocarbon I have found is blood knot as well. I have had carp snap knots I have tested, the acceleration and turn of a take on a water knot, mainline to hooklink, Sensor to Berkley XL. A water knot between the two just does not work for me. It is the only floater set-up I use with a controller and swivel. Come to that I just can't get XL to join any other line, it has to be tied to swivel or hook. Yet on a normal test pull it will not break. Never found any other material I could not find the right knot to join to another line.

I test every knot and every hooklink to my satisfaction and I've not had one fail me yet, so I must be doing something right, like I said I test it to the point where if it was going to fail it would, but through experimentation I've learnt which materials I have faith in and which I don't, I would only crimp Gardner stiff link and mouthtrap, and if they have passed my test I am confident they won't fail, Also I think there will be less pressure with a rod and line than 2 puller tools, as the line will stretch and the rod and clutch will also take some of the pressure out of any sudden lunges

I test every hooklink, every leader knot, if I can snap it, then sure as heck a fish can. I'm relying on a gradual increase of pull, strength, but a carp uses its speed. Within a metre it can be at top speed, that can be enough to put the tackle to far more tension and pressure than me. Fluorocarbon as far as I know has different abrasion resistance and although the stretch is similar, it's elasticity is less than mono. Mono can stretch and go back to its original state, whereas fluorocarbon, can't it tends to 'ping' quicker than mono.

Well its 10 years later how did it end up?