simple rig set up

[peter236uk]

Hi pretty new to carp fishing although have been fishing for many years, I am looking for a simple effective rig for gravel pit fishing. The bottom is pretty clear gravel pit and depth of around 5ft to 7ft.

 

Something simple but effective I guess thats what everyone wants !!

[spudder]

I would recommend going to your local tackle shop, asking them, or maybe buy one of the Korda packs that gives you the lead clips and tubing.

 

Then a few leads, some hooklink matieral, swivels, some hooks, hair stops, baiting needle if you havn't already got one and a back of shelf life boilies.

[binfield]

the basic running rig should cover most situations. its also a quite a safe set up.

[noknot]

Ditto

[peter236uk]

Would you have this rig with a back stop bead ! ie

hooklength then bead swivel with lead running free and back stop bead I have seen this but would that not work like a bolt rig !

[theloner]

i dont bother with a backstop bead. the one between lead and hooklink is vital. try and get a lead with a big hole for the line to run freely! this might sound silly but its important. cant get simpler than that rig

[noknot]

Would you have this rig with a back stop bead ! ie

hooklength then bead swivel with lead running free and back stop bead I have seen this but would that not work like a bolt rig !

 

So does this mean that you are fishing a running rig on tubing, hence the back stop bead?

[salokcinnodrog]

Try these:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

 

While I know that Spudder has recommended the Korda Running set-up, there are other manufacturers (and some are definitely better!)

 

Solar, Fox, ESP etc.

 

Go through, choose the one that suits YOU, not which is advertised or plugged, as the truth is out there and it is not always in the magazines

[peter236uk]

Hi this is a great help as someone that has fished for many years but not after Carp.

 

Do I assume that most rigs are a sort of bolt rig ! ie when we used to leger we would have the main line lower strength line tied to this with the hook. A bomb with stop shot or something between hook and bomb.

This is what we would have called a simple running ledger.

ie when a fish picks the bait up it would then not feel the resistance.

Sorry if I seem a bit thick on this but as I said complete newbie to the carp side of the sport.

Thanks Pete

[666carpcatcher]

If you have a look through this link that Nick had put up, im sure everything will become clear mate..

 

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37603

 

And i wouldnt bother worrying about sounding "thick" we have all started somewhere and its far better to ask than to go out and make a mistake(even though we all still make then now and again )

 

From teh hook end...

 

Hook

Hooklink

Swivel

bead

lead

and unless your useing a helicoptor rig where a bead is placed behind the lead, there shouldnt be nothing else on the line (except a back lead, if your useing them)

 

Putting a shot behind the lead will create a fixed rig, or also known as a death rig, all it takes is abit off weed or the like, to get stuck over the shot/bead and it wont budge resulting in a fish trailing hooklink, lead, and all

 

[peter236uk]

cheers for this it helps a great deal

Pete

[peter236uk]

I see most rigs show tubing above the hook link can I ask what the reason is for this !

and how far would you have the tubing running along the main line or am I mistaken

Cheers

[mrcif]

I was under the impression that the length of tubing (usually 1 & half times the length of your hooklink) was simply to stop tangling and also to help sink the line, though I'm a newbie as well so might be wrong.

[binfield]

the tubing is to prevent tangles and protect the carps scales.I personaly dont use any tubing just mainline straight through to the hook link.again this is a personal choice but i find tubing to obtrusive,it sticks out on the lake bed. i know you can buy tubing that is camo ie silt, weed coloured but its very hard to match up to whats on the bottom.but as i said thats a personal choice ,so thats up to you to decide.

[salokcinnodrog]

I was under the impression that the length of tubing (usually 1 & half times the length of your hooklink) was simply to stop tangling and also to help sink the line, though I'm a newbie as well so might be wrong.

 

Just about a perfect explanation

 

I'm not totally sure about 1.5 times as long as the hooklink, I usually just use a couple of centimetres longer than the rig.

 

 

In most cases you don't need tubing at all. By the use of feathering the cast, using a Mono or Fluorocarbon hooklink, PVA bags/mesh/or stringers tangles can be pretty much eliminated, even with braided hooklinks (probably why tubing has been advocated to reduce tangles as braid is very supple). I know these are mentioned on other threads, so having a play with the search may be useful .

 

Tubing in most cases is like putting a stick right across your dinner plate. Put you right off your meal

 

A standard mainline is extremely unlikely to cut a fish, although a braid mainline is different. You don't fish tubing on a Surface fishing set-up, so why the need on a bottom bait.?

 

The most camouflaged tubing is more obvious than an extremely fine (in relation) line. Consider your mainline is (approx) 0.35-0.40mm, and the finest tubing is 0.75mm. Which is going to be easiest to see?

 

Add a tight line into that (with or without tubing) and it is going to be more obvious for the Carp to see. Fish a tight line at short range (under say 40metres) with tubing and you are likely to be holding it up off the bottom of the lake. The line running "straight" from rod tip to end tackle.

 

In nature very few items are "tight" or straight. The best way to camouflage a line (in my view) is to fish it as slack as possible with a Running Lead, the line running along the lake bed, drooping straight down from the rod tip. Despite what many think, the indication is more instant than with a tight line and Semi-Fixed Lead, the lead does not need to be moved to get an indication at the rod (It does with a Semi-fixed set-up, and that includes Silt/Helicopter rigs). Also have a search for Running vs Semi-Fixed Leads, and Slack lines vs Tight lines

 

There is a time when I worry about using tubing and it being longer than a couple of centimetres more than the rig; that is when I'm using tubing as a "abrasion resistor" and using it to protect the line from snags etc which may cut through uncovered mainline.

 

Simplest set-up is probably knotless knotted hook to hooklink with a swivel joining to mainline. On the mainline coming back from the swivel a rubber bead or 2 to protect the knot and stop run ring sliding down hooklink, a Run Ring with a lead attached.

 

Sorry if that is long winded, but I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, to be understood

[binfield]

very well put , as usuall

[salokcinnodrog]

very well put , as usuall

 

You could have pointed out the typo though

[tomeluk]

I use tubing and totally free running lead. The reasoning behind the tubing for me is that when we hook a fish it sets off in the opposite direction to our strike or tension, thus the line is scraping down the fishes body. Some protection is given to the fish by having a short hooklength plus lead then tubing . My fishing friend has a set up which has a breakaway lead on impact so only a short length of line comes into contact with the fish on impact the rest is a length of tubing which can roll across the body of the fish so causing as little damage as possible. He has the best method from the breakaway point of view but if we hit a runs water he can drop off £35+ of leads in a 24 hr session.

Nicks view that it is a distraction "across the dinner plate" I cannot see, as it is a swivel and hooklength away from the dinner plate and I cannot see carp as being that discerning as to leave the table because they do not like the look of a piece of something alongside it and probably a foot away.

I think we can over elaborate at times and give fish more credit than they are entitled to.

 

If I can protect the fish and prevent harm coming to them and it results in less fish coming to my net as a result then I for one am prepared to do so. I would love to do it my mates way and set my leads to break off on strike but at £35 per session plus the cost of the session, bait, petrol etc

we have to work within our budgets.