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line aligner?


yabsey

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Hey all been monitoring the forum for some time now picked up some handy little tips. Im still developing my fishing really and i have noticed that more people seem to use the line aligner than just a standard knotless knot.

 

I want to start using this method in fishing as it seems like it must work as so many people swear by it. But i dont quite understand how the piece of tubing can improve the hooking potential. Also where to bring the hooklink out of the tubing as i have seen some really curved round, and some with just a short dumpy piece of tubing.

 

Any help would be great.

 

Thanks

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Its to do with turning the hook over as the hookling slides over the bottom of a carp's mouth when the fish moves away from the lead and the link tightens - so the hook-point is facing downwards rather than whole hook possibly being dragged across on its side over the carp's bottom lip, failing to prick into some flesh.

 

 

 

Try it with the "across the back of the hand" technique with rigs set up with and without the tubing..... - although this isn't an essentially accurate test (not under water for a start!) maybe it can help you see the mechanics of it.....

 

Imagine the back of your hand is the bottom of a carp's mouth - and that the carp has sucking in your bait and hook and is moving away.... the hooklink slides across the surface and see if the shrink tube turns the hook up :)

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I use a small amount of shrink tube to aling and flip the hook on wide gape or longshank hooks but if you use hooks with a slightly inturned eye it flips every time without the tubing which is not as obvious on the bottom. Make sure the knotless knot goes down level with the point of the hook and is wound back up a couple of times to lock the knot. In addition, a small piece of tubing on the hook bend will further assist hook point alignment and flipping.

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  • 1 month later...
Out of interest... do any ppl cut the tubing slightly at end nearest the swivel?

If so, which side of tubing do you cut it? Facing towards hook point or away from?

Thanks

Ben

 

The high point of the tubing I always make face forward. So the high point of the tubing is on the hookpoint side.

 

 

but if you use hooks with a slightly inturned eye it flips every time without the tubing which is not as obvious on the bottom. Make sure the knotless knot goes down level with the point of the hook and is wound back up a couple of times to lock the knot. In addition, a small piece of tubing on the hook bend will further assist hook point alignment and flipping.

 

Fishingaddict,

I will disagree with you. :!:

It doesn't always, and I know that for a fact, cos I actually get in the water to check. I lost 2 fish this week where the hook hadn't flipped round properly. I will state it may also depends on hook size, but in the case this week I was using size6 Centurions, where I hadn't had a problem previously, but different fish can deal with different rigs in different ways :wink:

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, I would like to state my opinion about the line aligner.

At the begining of the auttum I tested 3 rigs: 1 line aligner (the Jim Gibbinson one); 2nd rig was just with the shrink tube curved; 3rd rig was a simple knotless knot. The hooks were size 6 Fox SSSP, the hooklenght was 15lb Mantis.

In 2 months time I've made 10 sessions of 48h. The Line Aligner rig has cought the most fishes then the knotless knot rig and last the rig with the shrink tube curved.

14 fish from 12lbs to29lbs for the Line Aligner rig; 9 fish from 13lbs to18lbs for the Knotless Knot rig and 3 fish from 8lbs to 11lbs for the curved shrink tube rig.

I will continue the tests in the spring 'till the end of fall and that will have more substance.

Tight lines, Mihai!

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  • 2 years later...
  • 6 months later...

I don't think the hook pattern matters a huge amount if you get the curve in the tubing right.

I'm really into very sneaky little fluorocarb line aligners with small ESP Big T Hooks running through inline stonzes.. most effective, subtle, safe and sensitive rig I've ever come across..

but I fish a clear bottom (hard clay with light weed) so I'm lucky - the water is gin clear so I need that subtlety.

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Note - A rig with just shrink tubing on it is not a proper line aligner, the hooklink has to be passing through the shrink tubing, through a hole in it created by the baiting needle. It's easier to do than explain..

hook1.jpg

shrink.jpg

 

 

The one and only 'Proper' Jim Gibbinson line aligner :wink:8)

 

ok can someone explain to me why the "jim gibbinson" version works so much better :?: please

 

doug

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Quite why the proper line aligner works as well as it does is one of those carp fishing things that may never be fully understood.

I still use it for all my pre-tied snowman / bottom bait rigs, and have done since about 1995.

It must come down to the 'flip'. Try it yourself. The knotless knot works very well, but every now and then it will not flip and catch. The line aligner flips every time, if tied correctly.

 

If I tie my rig up at home it's always a line aligner, on the bank it's a knotless knot.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The line aligner has been covered again in one of the monthlies, Septembers Carpology, and according to palm tests, (which I don't necessarily think are always effective), was the best at grabbing hold and turning in to create good hook pr icking.

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