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Mainline/hooklength for 30lb carp on feeder


Markreed

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In my small local lake I've been having huge success on the method feeder but my rod and line keep consistently meeting fish that my tackle can't handle. The areas I'm having most success in have too many snags for the carp to run into and when I try to halt them with my 8lb mainline it's often been game over when I'm into the ones in the double figures (there's fish up to 31lb in there). I've recently gone from my light carp rod to a proper 3.25lb Sonik carp rod and now I need to upgrade my line to match. What strength and type of mainline plus a hooklength line would you guts recommend consideridering playing the fish in open water isn't an option as I'm fishing right up against reed banks (and next to a narrow passageway lined by reeds both sides) and tree roots. I need to be able to keep the fish away from these when they first bolt off.

all help appreciated 

 

thanks

 

mark

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Welcome to Carp.com.

Upping the test curve does NOT give you more stopping power as those higher test curve type of rods are more tip action, which can rip hooks out, or break line.

 

I would be using a more through action rod in around 2.5-2.75lb TC, but upping the line to 15lb. My hooklinks would also be braided hooklink material, they take abrasion better than most monos.

 

For snag fishing, I would put the rods pointing directly where the end tackle is, baitrunner switched OFF, clutch tightened right up, anti-reverse off. Because the fish can't take line they will arc away from the snag, so you can step back as you strike, pull them away and then play as normal, just don't let them get their head down and go back into the snag.

 

Trying to play fish up a channel with reeds on both sides is not fun, you may need to be able to get in the water, either by wading, (but don't take any risks), or by boat. Basically if you are leaving tackle in fish, or losing more than you land, then it could be too risky to fish.

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