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Floater rod.


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I'm looking to buy and out and out floater fishing rod. 10/11' foot no longer. The Free Spirit Hi s is ticking all the boxes 11' 2.75lb t/c.  But I'd like a few alternatives in that price range, any thought's please.  The F\S has a nice soft tip, ideal for lighter lines and small hooks, but backbone too. Anyone own one feedback please too.

 

Thanks Guys.

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I prefer to use a 1.5lb test curve Barbel style rod.

I landed no end of fish on a 1.5lb Daiwa Pro-Specialist rod, to well over 20lb. I recently bought myself a Shakespeare Barbel and Avon rod, and so far that ticks the boxes.

 

I found the heavier rods just didn't balance right

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Salok..

Floater fishing is my thing. Is my mainstay fishing from the time they will come up for a floater. Many fish to over 30lb in the U.K.of the top

I doubt any would have been landed on a 1.5lb rod. By May most of my waters are weedy, all are gin clear (understocked) so the weed grows really quick. I'd imagine in better stocked less weedy waters I too would use lighter. I agree lower t/c rods are lighter and nice to hold.

I was looking for a rod that would allow relatively light hook links 10lb and pick up line at 60 yards or so, and be nice in close. I have a pair of Daiwa Infinity 2.25lb barbel rods, but the action is not right for distance. Great on the Trent casting big feeders but not 5 gram controllers. They are light at 7oz but so is the new Daiwa.

It's was a case of finding something just right as I use the rod 5 days a week in summer, I could have made do with what I had, but!  The only thing with the Freee Spirit was length, and after thinking long and hard the extra foot with the Daiwa outweighed it's disadvantages, but I'll have to see?

But thanks for the imput.

Dicky.

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3 hours ago, Dicky123 said:

Salok..

Floater fishing is my thing. Is my mainstay fishing from the time they will come up for a floater. Many fish to over 30lb in the U.K.of the top

I doubt any would have been landed on a 1.5lb rod. By May most of my waters are weedy, all are gin clear (understocked) so the weed grows really quick. I'd imagine in better stocked less weedy waters I too would use lighter. I agree lower t/c rods are lighter and nice to hold.

I was looking for a rod that would allow relatively light hook links 10lb and pick up line at 60 yards or so, and be nice in close. I have a pair of Daiwa Infinity 2.25lb barbel rods, but the action is not right for distance. Great on the Trent casting big feeders but not 5 gram controllers. They are light at 7oz but so is the new Daiwa.

It's was a case of finding something just right as I use the rod 5 days a week in summer, I could have made do with what I had, but!  The only thing with the Freee Spirit was length, and after thinking long and hard the extra foot with the Daiwa outweighed it's disadvantages, but I'll have to see?

But thanks for the imput.

Dicky.

Weedy?

3c4a7aa4a4023659dfaaa1cf82026930_zps9970

earith.jpg

I have landed fish from those swims on that rod, with 15lb line and a 15lb hooklink, as well as being able to drop to a 5lb hooklink for smaller fish to low doubles in clear swims, and using the same rod for chub on the river.

I did actually land the fish in the bottom pic after it got the munchies!

I found that the through action of the Pro Specialist had more 'oomph' than a higher test curve rod, less hookpulls.

 

I did plenty of floater fishing myself, and that top lake is around a mile from my house.

 

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6 hours ago, Dicky123 said:

Each to their own! I have no point to prove.

Dicky.

My point was, I do know what I'm talking about, with the pictures and t-shirt to prove it.

In fact, on one water I 'accidentally' landed a 20lb plus ghostie on a surface fished dog biscuit on 6lb line from a lily laden swim on a lighter Avon rod, the same rod I use for roach fishing.

A 'tippy' rod with a heavier test curve can pull hooks out, whereas a through action rod has more playing power all the way through. 

Even Terry Hearn has stated he has a preference for a lighter test curve rod for his floater fishing as it balances better than his heavier gear

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I'm with Dicky on this one. I used to use a Barbel rod for fishing on top but was forced to use an old 2.5 carp rod once due to the barbel rod being round my brothers place. I actually much preferred the carp rod, has a bit more backbone and the stiffer blank seems to offer more control for me. Think it's an original Fox Warrior, must be minimum 15 years old, only £50 when new, boy has that had some use over the years. Still good as new, bargain.

A lot of it is personal preference IMO.

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Salok.

But why do you have to prove it, is it's just down to ego. I've meet ego guys over the years and they always have to tell everyone just how good they are. It's the guys that keep stum I respect. They expalin there point and don't get all prissy about people saying their wrong, they will argue their corner and try tounderstand others view. The ego guys also spend an awful lot of time on forums?

If your just trying to tell me you can put more pressure on a fish with a much lighter rod like a 1.5 over a 2.5  ; then I think your simply deluded, regardless of line b\s. But that's your choice, opinion, I have no problem with it, and wont try to change your mind. But it's the novice anglers I feel sorry for hearing that advice that go out undergunned on these weedy carp waters.

I hooked a nice modest fish (mid twenty) last season off the top that got weeded right away. The 2.5lb 10' rod was only just enough, I know any less power and the fish could not have been moved. 

Regarding barbel rods as floater rods. For me the action is just not right. Most are designed to cast reasonably large weights 4/5 ounces in some cases, and not designed for casting 5 grams. The tool I'm after would have the same test curve, but would be quicker in the tip, lighter, and fast taper. It's hard to explan exactly what I mean by quick, not quick in long casting quick, more progressive quick, a very difficult rod to design I'd imagine.

The Daiwa came yesterday and I called in the pit for a cast. It's ultra light, slim, and seems to have that tip action I'm after. I let you know!

 

Edited by Dicky123
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Dicky,

Don't make assumptions about me. Firstly I am Autistic, and a trait of that is explaining myself properly, and having the last word.:wink:

I don't bother with ego, it makes absolutely no odds to me, I don't bother with it. I know what I can do, know what I can't and know what works best for me.

I also know a fair bit about rod building, rod actions, test curves and balancing a rod reel combination, for me.

 

You can put more pressure on a fish with a through actioned rod in a lighter test curve than with a heavier test curve tip actioned rod. The tip actioned rod is normally  a casting rod, and at closer ranges, unless you slacken off, will pull the hook out.

This heavier rod of say 3.25lb on a weedy water is more likely to pull the hook out as well, again, better to use a lighter rod of 1.75/2lb with a more through action.

 

I have owned a few rods over the years, my current fishing rods are 3.25lb where I need to cast well over 100metres at times, but even with my 2.75's I could hit 115 or even 120metres with Big reels, 90metres with 10000 size Baitrunners.

 

Now those swims I put pictures up of, where I used a through actioned rod, I was able to play the fish with no worry about pulling the hooks out. 

 

 

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If your going to change the basis of the arguement ( re pulling hooks out ) you need to start a different thread. We are not talking about hook pulls, but rod pressure. And again sadly you incorrect. A heavier T/C rod will put more pressure on than a lighter rod. IT'S THE REASON A HOOK PULL CAN HAPPEN, MORE PRESSURE IS BEING EXERTED. If you cannot see that then your not following your own line of thinking.

Factually these days the hooks are more likly to straighten than line breaking.

I've really had enough of this sillyness. Lets agree to differ before we fall out?  

Some of our most famous people were dislectic, Albert Eistein for example, so your in good company.

Dicky.

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Dicky123 said:

If your going to change the basis of the arguement ( re pulling hooks out ) you need to start a different thread. We are not talking about hook pulls, but rod pressure. And again sadly you incorrect. A heavier T/C rod will put more pressure on than a lighter rod. IT'S THE REASON A HOOK PULL CAN HAPPEN, MORE PRESSURE IS BEING EXERTED. If you cannot see that then your not following your own line of thinking.

Factually these days the hooks are more likly to straighten than line breaking.

I've really had enough of this sillyness. Lets agree to differ before we fall out?  

Some of our most famous people were dislectic, Albert Eistein for example, so your in good company.

Dicky.

 

 

You are missing the point, the test curve is the weight needed to pull the rod tip 90degrees to the rod butt, it is NOT the power of the rod.

There are different types of rod taper, fast actioned (usually high test curve, tip action casting rods), through action, medium fast, or even parabolic.

How the test curve works on each different taper is relative:

BR1001-rod1Z.jpg

 

The tip actioned rod is exerting more pressure on the hook, whereas a through actioned rod is more 'forgiving', so less likely to pull the hook out.

 

If you wish to argue, go ahead, as I said, I have been building rods on and off since  the 1990's.

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