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Posted

Once you're below the surface with nothing for scale the size of the fish is deceptive

biggest is about 4lb. They were fry rescued from a shall of perch 8 years ago. TBH they need to move on to a larger water, but rules don't allow it now days
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

5lb at the most. BTW I had a mistype it's 4, not 3

How are your fish Mark ? We are putting a pond into our back yard and I'm obviously looking st getting a few Carpy creatures ...

 

Any advice for me ?

Posted

yes Tim, dont do it lol

 

unless that is your gonna use it to keep your hand in :lol: i had a pond with a few carp once and it was hell trying to balance the PH of the water all the time, if you do intend to do it put plenty of plants in it bro.

Posted

yes Tim, dont do it lol

 

unless that is your gonna use it to keep your hand in :lol: i had a pond with a few carp once and it was hell trying to balance the PH of the water all the time, if you do intend to do it put plenty of plants in it bro.

Well she'll do it Jon whether I agree or not anyway but I'm the one that'll end up looking after it .
Posted

Well she'll do it Jon whether I agree or not anyway but I'm the one that'll end up looking after it .

they can be hard work Tim also they can be heart breaking if you dont get it right.

just keep Tj away from the fairy liquid and the pool, i came home from work one day and as i came round the corner i was met with a 10ft high wall of fake snow.

wasn't so funny when i realized it was oozing over my side fence :(

Posted

they can be hard work Tim also they can be heart breaking if you dont get it right.

just keep Tj away from the fairy liquid and the pool, i came home from work one day and as i came round the corner i was met with a 10ft high wall of fake snow.

wasn't so funny when i realized it was oozing over my side fence :(

Mmmm I can imagine . I need to do some reading up on this Ph balance lark .

Chemistry was never my strong point as you can tell from my bait thread contributions :)

Posted (edited)

The fish are still going strong. The only thing I would say is, even though I only feed them floating food they still have days where they rip the bottom to bits looking for god knows what, which leaves the water really cloudy for anything up to a week

Edited by markspod
Posted

The fish are still going strong. The only thing I would say is, even though I only feed them floating food they still have days where they rip the bottom to bits looking for god knows what, which leaves the water really cloudy for anything up to a week

Glad to hear it Mark . I'm told a couple of small Tench in the pond will keep the bottom free of any rotting food , any truth in that cos I believe my dear old dad did that years ago .

 

Just didn't put it as politely as that :)

Posted

Mmmm I can imagine . I need to do some reading up on this Ph balance lark .

Chemistry was never my strong point as you can tell from my bait thread contributions :)

 

get yourself a pond PH kit and a small water fountain from most reputable garden and pond centers and check it first thing in he morning and last light as it can change drastically over a few hours, do that every couple of days till your plants are established then once a week.

the pond fountain will act as an aerator on a small scale, your PH should be around 7.5, i would say no lower than 5.5 and no higher than 10.

any higher or lower and you are gonna have fatalities, if its too acidic then do a water swap with tap water that has been standing in a covered water butt for a day or two as this allows a lot of the carbon dioxide to bleed off, as most tap water has a PH of 6.5 to 7.5 it makes it ideal for your pond.

if it is to far on the alkaline side just use a hose straight from the garden tap till it comes down to a safe level as it is the carbon dioxide that is the biggest culprit where PH is concerned... easy really init :)

Posted

get yourself a pond PH kit and a small water fountain from most reputable garden and pond centers and check it first thing in he morning and last light as it can change drastically over a few hours, do that every couple of days till your plants are established then once a week.

the pond fountain will act as an aerator on a small scale, your PH should be around 7.5, i would say no lower than 5.5 and no higher than 10.

any higher or lower and you are gonna have fatalities, if its too acidic then do a water swap with tap water that has been standing in a covered water butt for a day or two as this allows a lot of the carbon dioxide to bleed off, as most tap water has a PH of 6.5 to 7.5 it makes it ideal for your pond.

if it is to far on the alkaline side just use a hose straight from the garden tap till it comes down to a safe level as it is the carbon dioxide that is the biggest culprit where PH is concerned... easy really init :)

I'll take that on board Jon . I believe the pond she's buying has "all the bits" included so I'm just hoping that includes the ph thingy too :wink:

Posted

Tim, or anyone, I got researching when I bought a fish tank. Do you get ermmm.. Nitrate? Cycles in a pond like you do in a tank? So I mean, once the bacteria establish themselves is it possible for the pond to maintain its own balance without much interference needed? This was a while ago when I was reading and I don't pretend to recall it all.

Posted

Tim, or anyone, I got researching when I bought a fish tank. Do you get ermmm.. Nitrate? Cycles in a pond like you do in a tank? So I mean, once the bacteria establish themselves is it possible for the pond to maintain its own balance without much interference needed? This was a while ago when I was reading and I don't pretend to recall it all.

As you can imagine Dan I am a total novice so have a lot of reading ahead of me in the next coupla days.

 

I understand that a proper mixture of appropriate Plantage in the pond keeps the oxygen up and therefore keeping nitrogen at a safe level .

 

Does that sound right ?

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