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Posted

Hi guys, was just playing around making the multi rig (johnny mac rig)..

 

as you all know(hopefully) there should be a hinge in it, in the form of a coated back bit of braid just below the figure of eight knot....

 

i haven't really used this rig, but i really want to give it a go, for pop ups ans bottom baits as its something a bit different..

 

So this question could be perceived as cheating as i should really get myself down the bank and try it out for myself.... (I will overtime) but i need to start somewhere...

 

 

The Question: In this rig, or any rig that contains a hinge, how far should this be from the hook?

 

multi_johnny_mac_rig.jpg

 

 

Let me know what you think or what works best from your own experiences.

 

Regards

 

Tom

 

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Posted

whats the extra ring on the shank for/do???

 

the hinge placement will determine what height the bait sits off the bottom,but i think as close to the hook the better,but not under an inch to the eye,tho trying out the slight difference can pay ,and add to experience.

Posted

Just experimenting with rig strength. Its also quicker than tying a combi knot.

The rig ring on the shank stops the soft braid getting caught where the hook eye is formed.

Posted

So far ive never been in a situation where ive felt this rig would be advantageous,i have other rigs i prefer. Although i do think that the 'proper' version ie a stiff boom and supple hair is FAR superior a presentation than a simple 'stripped back' coated braid, despite what some people suggest.

Posted

And Zander, instead of the ring on the shank how about one of those rubber stopper thingys? Thats what i call them. Like 360 rig fame, if you get me??

Very subtle and would do same job but be more discreet. :wink:

Posted
So far ive never been in a situation where ive felt this rig would be advantageous,i have other rigs i prefer. Although i do think that the 'proper' version ie a stiff boom and supple hair is FAR superior a presentation than a simple 'stripped back' coated braid, despite what some people suggest.

 

Same :)

Posted
And Zander, instead of the ring on the shank how about one of those rubber stopper thingys? Thats what i call them. Like 360 rig fame, if you get me??

Very subtle and would do same job but be more discreet. :wink:

 

I have, but as these are the key feature to my normal pop up rig (not the 360) i didn't have any available :)

Im currently using chopped down sections of some predator float stops to do teh same thing as well and have run out of those now too lol

Posted
Great minds think alike so they say....... :lol:

 

Im just glad not everyone tries to jump down my throat for doing things slightly differently or having an opinion lol :lol:

Posted
And Zander, instead of the ring on the shank how about one of those rubber stopper thingys? Thats what i call them. Like 360 rig fame, if you get me??

Very subtle and would do same job but be more discreet. :wink:

 

I have, but as these are the key feature to my normal pop up rig (not the 360) i didn't have any available :)

Im currently using chopped down sections of some predator float stops to do teh same thing as well and have run out of those now too lol

 

Oh yeh, it does tend to ruin the rubbers and they fall off/split. a section of float stop is a tad more durable than the fox ring stoppers :)

Posted

Oh well, you know what works mate. The fact that your thinking around the little issues shows it.

 

I always thought the loops to the swivels should be a bit bigger to improve the movement of the supple section though? Saying that i doubt it would be an issue.

Posted
Oh well, you know what works mate. The fact that your thinking around the little issues shows it.

 

I always thought the loops to the swivels should be a bit bigger to improve the movement of the supple section though? Saying that i doubt it would be an issue.

 

Depends what you are looking for, i tend to find that a bigger loop doesnt really offer anything over a smaller and neater loop which is less obtrusive.

 

TBH, instead of using loop knots, i have found fishing it with a flexi ring swivel for the hinge as effective (you also dont need to add tungsten then) and instead of using a supple braid use a coated one and leave it coated for the section under the hook.

 

But when i use a bristle filament in the rig (any rig) i prefer loop knots over grinners (slipknots etc) as you can tie them easier with out the risk of bruising the filament or kinking it etc etc

 

You can also tie rigs the same length as each other more easily that way. :)

Posted
Great minds think alike so they say....... :lol:

 

Im just glad not everyone tries to jump down my throat for doing things slightly differently or having an opinion lol :lol:

 

 

am i then???. i just think it extra bells and whistles,i may get on your back if i see you say "keep it simple " now tho :lol::lol::lol:

Posted
Just experimenting with rig strength. Its also quicker than tying a combi knot.

The rig ring on the shank stops the soft braid getting caught where the hook eye is formed.

 

:lol::lol: one knot quicker then two :P only if you cant tie the combi knot :P:lol::lol:

Posted
nah not you beanz, i know what you meant- i just mean in general :)

 

ah you still hurting over your run water fleecing :lol:

 

Yeh! :lol::lol::lol:

 

Talk bout narrowminded people :P saying that- i am one lol

Posted
And Zander, instead of the ring on the shank how about one of those rubber stopper thingys? Thats what i call them. Like 360 rig fame, if you get me??

Very subtle and would do same job but be more discreet. :wink:

 

The rubber hook beads work best when stopping the ring from sliding down to the hookpoint and bend :wink:

 

The extra ring on the hook is to stop the doubled over length pulling back on itself and going through the eye if the eye is slightly open at the join as well as it getting caught in the eye as Zander said I think you will find.

 

I very rarely create a join on a hooklink other than combi-rigs, where I want a stiff boom section and a braided hooksection.

 

Play with the lengths for it to work best. I know Moorsey swears blind with a short braided section, about the length of the hookshank (ask him, its his thinking :wink: ), whereas I prefer a longer section, between 3 and 5cms long tied to Amnesia. I also use mostly bottom baits or snowman set-ups, so I think that the section tied to swivel or ring in the middle is more suitable for pop-ups (MY thinking)

 

Of course you could make life a whole lot simpler and simply make a hinge in a coated braid :wink:

 

Plastic Child safe scissors cut the plastic coating of a braid fairly easily so you don't have to strip it totally

Posted

Here are some other ways that i have fished it:

 

For you silt rig/choddy lovers: possibly the simplest way of tying this kind of rig also. (around 1" hook length shown)

DSC00031.jpg

DSC00033.jpg

You can also use them like a hinged stiff rig (my preferred method) :wink:

 

I have found the best way of fishing a rig similar, but more simple and effective, using a rubber buffer is like this: (ignore the rest of the rig as that isnt as simple lol)

DSC01400.jpg

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