Gazlaaar

Nige I took your advice and got a bridge camera off ebay some time ago now. I also got a pneumatic bulb and fashened a bracket together. Although I'm still getting used to the settings, it' coming along nicely. One thing I did purchase recently was a quick release adapter, meant for goal post buzz bars. It just means I can leave the tripod set up in the right position and remove the camera without to much fuss.

I think the lads on here would all agree that most anglers subconsciously hold themselves back for fear of rod breakages or cracking off. Do as chilly suggests, start low until you get the feel, a day practicing on your water will bring you closer. This is the knot I've used for years, as mentioned before, the length, bail arm to bail arm.

Chillfactor (phil) will be able to tell you more, he's a good caster, he's done some tuition with Terry Edmonds. If you look on YouTube, look up Terry Edmonds and Mark Hutchinson, both are at the top of the game. I was using 12lb daiwa sensor with esp 45lb shockleader and getting roughly 115 to 120 yards waste deep in water, I'm sure I could of gotten further from the bank. The length of shockleader I keep fairly simple, from bail are to bail arm. In other words, from the bail arm all the way up to the tip ring and back.

I'm not as good as some of the guys on here and I can only suggest what I do and use. Firstly convert the poundage of your test curve into ounces then add half an ounce, that'll give you your optimum casting weight. Tighten your clutch right up Have a good drop on your line, the lead around the spigot joint on your rod is a good point. I use a braided shockleader Most importantly use a finger stall, generally speaking, if you aren't putting your casting finger at risk, your not casting hard enough. Try to get the cast as near to 45 degrees as possible. If your right handed, left foot in front, right foot behind and transfer your weight from the back foot to the front whilst casting. That's how I do it, I'm sure there will be other methods Ooo last but not least, tournament leads and helicopter rigs. Make sure your rod rings are wet.

I thought I'd give this a bump again as I'm out fishing tomorrow. There's 2 maybe 3 waters I'm going to look at tomorrow, which ever one I see fish on I'm going to fish. I've gotten everything ready to be packed in the car tomorrow after I've taken the little one to school, then I'm back early on Thursday morning. The weather is looking wet so at least it won't be cold. What ever happens, I'm going to enjoy it regardless

I still use my Fox Supa MK1, as I genuinely don't think there is anything better for setting up or packing down time. I bought it second hand nearly two years ago off a mate of mine. I never use the zip on front or the ground sheet for that matter and I've used it through the hottest and the coldest of nights. I like the vents at the back when it's really hot and I like I only really need 6 pegs to peg it down with. Without doubt it' the best brolly I have owned.

Sorry I did change the image as soon as I realised my mistake

Give Gink a go I used to use this a lot with dry flies.

Have you tried putting a foam nugget inside a small mesh pva bag along with your mix of choice? As Nick suggests, don't compress the bag too much as you want the air in the bag, but for extra buoyancy and a secure hook hold, try putting a pva nugget inside the bag to one side, then push the hook point through that.

Just to add, get a finger stall, I had a near miss last year being lazy, get the fox or daiwa versions as they wrap around your hand, I had no end of problems once the Korda finger stalls got wet, they kept coming off into the drink in front of me.

Just to throw a spanner into the works, I've been spombing/spodding on a regular basis in excess of 100 yards. Now I'm not really a fan of carrying multiple rods so mine have to perform a number of duties. I purchased shimano velocity's, 12ft 3.25lb tc. These rods coupled with 12lb sensor and esp 45lb shock leader have performed admirably. I do use the medium sized spombs and impact spods, and yes it may take a bit longer to get large amounts of feed out but I can tell you from first hand experience it's a great set up.

I've already moved onto another water during the closed season, it's in the same area but it's suffered and is still vulnerable to Otters. I haven't seen them yet but scales have been found on a number of occasions. Anyway I don't want to hijack this thread. Back to the OP the pod looks similar to a Gardner Black Shadow Pod with different banksticks and buzz bars attached. I have the gardner black shadow with cygnet 20/20 sticks and bars, works a treat.

Personally I like mine all neat and tidy, I can not stand the mess of single stick fishing. But that's just personal preference It's what I'm used to, back leads help, I've never had to much of a problem using this set up or a pod.

Neither would I, even though I've been guilty of having a pop back from time to time. It doesn't represent fishing for me, I wouldn't want Ben exposed to this.

Same to you

I don't use the full version or Tapatalk,

So am i

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If it's new, send it back and get a replacement

I have been toying with the idea of using paste for a while now, the biggest problem is the distance I'm casting and whether the paste would stay on or not. I've looked at various method feeders and paste bombs but I need to know the paste has stayed on, through the cast and when it hits the water. The idea is to do one cast only, and get as much attraction as possible for that one cast. Plus my rig can be fully broken down to accommodate a number of other applications. This is my normal lead set up I can just simply swap the lead over for a midi spomb without needing a third rod. This morning I was having a browse round the tackle shop, looking at various feeders, they were either to small or too bulky to reach the distance required. Then I spotted some drennan distance bombs. The idea is not the traditional idea of letting the paste spill off the feeder, I want to keep the paste in its original form for as long as possible. It just needs to be slowly leaching of attractors. This is what I will try out I may have to change the internal workings to cope with casting, but I think these will be perfect as long as I can reach where I need to be

Well another blank session, I won't be out for another two weeks. I'll be there next Friday getting the bait in but won't be fishing. Still We knew it was never going to be easy

I'm a recent convert, I have a fox file for heavy sharpening and a gardner pad just to Polish. I do mine just before they go out

It looks like we're packing up in the rain again, I'm just trying to hold back for a break between showers

I test everything, I don't understand why you wouldn't want to know what's happening.

Glad I could help fella