hnv

ok a little confused? is using shrink tubing to create more of a bend in an already bent hook ok or is it dangerous? also i cant use braid as it is banned Some shrink tube set-ups can mimick the bent hook but are not dangerous as the tubing is flexible. I use tubing on most of my rigs as a line aligner. Hope this clears it up...

Well, the idea behind shrink tubing - or at least the original "line aligner" concept that used silicon tubing was to elongate the hook shank and accentuate the bend to give a "bent hook" effect without the actual long and bent shank (bent hooks rigs can give excellent hook-ups but can lead to horrendous mouth damage so are, quite rightly, now banned). The long-shank nailer type hooks are just as dangerous and indeed are also banned on many waters. If the hook pattern already has a curved (but short) shank then I would perhaps agree that a device that creates a more "aggressive" angle to help the hook to turn and catch hold may not be required. I used to fish a very snaggy water and was using Nash Fang X hooks at the time (a very strong, short, curved shank pattern) but I still added a small length of tubing as a line aligner. I found that this did indeed help convert more pick-ups into hooked fish especially when using very supple braids as hook links. In short, if you are used to using tubing on other hook patterns then I see no reason to stop with a curved shank pattern. Even if it is not essential it certainly wouldn't hurt.

They are primarily designed for pop-up baits. Attach the bait by tying a pop-up on with bait floss or thin braid to the ring.

Loads... Have a look on Amazon.

A well tied (twice through the eye) grinner with at least 5 turns should not slip at all. If you are still having problems with braid try a Palomar knot at the swivel. This knot is especially suited to smooth braids and will not slip if tied correctly even under extreme load. When tying the Grinner, pay close attention to forming the "barrel" of the knot and ensure all the turns are level and do not overlap one another. Knot slippage is usually down to a poorly tied knot. You MUST lubricate the knot well with saliva before tightening gradually and evenly. Hope this helps...

What he said...

Ah, the key word there is "nearly" all types of bottom. Drop a chod into the margins over a hard patch and have a look at it... horrendous? What advantage does this give over using a standard pop-up type rig when fishing over clean bottoms? I'm not saying the rig is no good - far from it. I just wish people would use the correct rig for the situation. Even when fishing over very deep, stinking silt I prefer a withypool type set-up as at least then the only thing popped-up is the hookbait!

I agree, you are right... there will be times when this rig catches from a hard bottomed area. But perhaps we should all ask ourselves "is this the right rig for the situation I am facing" before we chuck it out. Rigs are just tools that help us catch fish. I always like to use the right tool for the job in hand. Saying that, I am probably guilty of using my "favourite" coated braid combi link in some situations where a different presentation would be more advantageous...

I see so many people either using this rig or asking how to tie it or where to get a ready-tied version. What I have not seen is people asking in what angling situation to use this rig and what are it's advantages over other types of rig. In my day it was called the helicopter rig, silt rig or bomb-on-the-end-of-the-line set up. The rig does have some anti-tangle properties and can help to give the angler confidence that his rig is working correctly when fishing at extreme range, but it was designed purely for fishing over soft bottoms like deep silt or bottoms littered with detritus (chod) such as dying weed, leaf litter and twigs etc. (usually with a buoyant bait). I have seen anglers using this set-up over hard gravel in the past with no idea why they have chosen to fish like this apart from they'd seen it on telly or in a magazine. Unless you are fishing over "chod" the presentation usually given by this rig can be appalling when fishing over clean, hard bottoms. Unless you want your mainline and hookbait to be suspended off the bottom in the most unnatural manor I would avoid using this rig except for the situation it was designed for.

Just personal preference really but I like a relatively short supple section at the hook end usually about 1.5". This allows for ample bait movement while also contributing to the "anti-eject" capabilities of the rig. The bait, hook and very end of the stiff section are taken in to the carp's mouth which is then very hard to spit out without the hook catching hold. I use a full stiff section over hard bottoms and a hinged one for softer substrates such as silt or light weed. I must admit that for probably 90% of my bottom bait fishing I use a combi rig of coated braid (Kryston snake bite usually).

Hair length is something that you can experiment with. It all depends on the bait size, buoyancy, bottom substrate, hooklink length and even the size of fish being targeted. I like relatively long hairs for much of my fishing, but I suspect that what I would deem a long hair may not be your idea of a long one. When fishing for wary, pressured fish over silt I can sometimes use a hair length that allows the bait to hang up to 2 inches from the bend of the hook. Other times I want it pretty tight to the hook shank with a gap of say 5-10mm. If you are experiencing stuttering and aborted takes I would increase the hair length first and if no improvement in catch rate then try shortening it right down. Just remember - the whole point of the hair rig is to allow separation of bait from hook so the fish take the bait confidently as if it were a free offering. Have a play around and let us know how you get on...

I was lucky enough to receive this book as a Christmas present this year. It was published in 1993 and therefore a second-hand copy from amazon. It really is a fantastic book for all carp fans. Not a "fishing" book as such, but rather a history book of which the subject is carp. In particular the stockings carried out by Donald Leney and the Surrey Trout Farm in the 1950's. Redmire, Frensham, Billing Aqadrome, Savay; they are all in there. The Redmire chapter is perhaps the most extensive and interesting for me personally. A lot of the contents of this book have been published in various other titles more recently but not all. This book is filled with information on the very origin of carp fishing and indeed the carp themselves, documenting not just historic captures but making detailed reference to the stocking of the actual carp that are being caught. If you have the slightest interest in carp fishing heritage and historic waters as well as the fish, this is the book for you! A very enjoyable read and useful reference book - highly recommended. Although now out of print and not cheap I believe it is worth it. However, if you can't get hold of it then get your local library to order it in for you and read it for free!

I got this book for Christmas and read it cover to cover in three sittings! A fantastic read and truly inspirational. The chapters on Colnemere and the black mirror are absolutely gripping, you know what's coming due to Dave's published results but that doesn't spoil the excitement as you read into the world of these large, daunting venues that are sprinkled with a few historic carp. Dave Lane's writing is littered with humour and a great sense of the tragedy that some times arises in carp fishing. The effort that he puts into his fishing is astounding and a lesson to all. I did really love the book but there are a few "niggles". It has to be said, I am not a fan of the font/typeface used although I did get used to it eventually. Also, the book lacked detail in places, particularly with regard to describing some of the other waters as opposed to the Mere (when compared to the level of detail used in "an obsession with carp"). The photographs used (many as full-page plates) are also stunning throughout the book. On the whole, a great book. Highly recommended.

My pleasure...

The term "snelling" refers to whipping around the hookshank. The Domhof, spade end and knotless knots are all snell type knots. I got a little stocking filler book at Christmas, it's quite good: "The complete book of fishing knots, leaders and lines". It's aimed at US game anglers but has some good stuff for carpers. Anyway, It says: "Snelling is a word that was first used in print in the US in 1893... with reference to 'well made, securely wrapped, double-snelled Aberdeen bend hooks". It just goes to show that there is little that is "new" in angling...

You can buy stripping tools but I do not own one. It depends on the braid as some are harder to strip than others. I use my teeth or finger nails, if you are struggling then warm it up over some steam to soften.

I love coated braids... I use them for 80% of my fishing situations. As already stated, they are tangle proof (if used correctly), abrasion resistant, have a certain anti-eject capability (if tied that way) and are probably among the most versatile hooklink materials you could use. They allow: stiff-supple combi rigs, stiff rigs, hinged rigs, supple rigs, supple hairs, stiff hairs, etc, etc. My favourites are: Kryston snake bite, Kryston mantis and suffix stealth skin although others are available. They all come with instructions...

I always use the Mahin knot for shockleaders. It's a great knot that allows both tag ends to face the same way (like the Albright) and is especially good for joining two dissimilar materials i.e. braid to nylon. Google it...

Did they put some Klinik on it?? I once managed to get a hook in the end of my nose... I was sniffing a bait to see if was silty smelling and my mate stood on my mainline, due to the angle the bait was plucked from my grasp and a size 6 fang gave me an unwanted piercing!! Wish I could always get hook-holds like that in the fishes mouth...

I've used Kryston's products for years. My favourite is snakebite, a plastic coated braid (tennis racket strings!!). A close second is Merlin - a lovely supple braid with an open weave. It needs rubbing with a little bit of drop 'em putty to ensure it sinks when new...

I often use mono as a hooklink but would not entertain using it for the hair (too stiff). I make a hair from kryston samson or drennan hair braid, thread it through the eye, hold tight against shank and whip a knotless knot over the top. This a gives a stiff(ish) rig with a lovely supple hair (keep the hair long too).

I've never heard of it but if it's got sir Pete's name on it I'd read it!