TnCarper

The mesh laundry bags is what I use for drying boilies a bit. Have a store here called Dollar Tree that has them for $1(everything there is a dollar or less). Works well and FAR cheaper than air dry bags I've seen.

Gardner hydro-tuff. Where I'm at, there is a abundance of not just gravel, but good-sized rocks, some very large. But even the HT gets pretty chewed up, so I have to cut off line, and even change line often. Also have to go using long Kryston snag leaders(at least 3'), and tubing if I can get my line through 3-4ft of it. Even with that, have to often cut line off.

Nice. Buy'em and paint them black.

That's what I was thinking. Really, I think he's just been where a lot of mirrors are around.

The only thing I found of it was it in a spray, combined with wonderfruit(wonderfruit probably being the dominate flavor). And in bait that has already been made. Know these aren't what you're looking for, but hope its some help.

I can't really help that much since I'm not in the UK, but I think it would be a good idea to list what you're mainly been using as of late.

Shows off the carp fishing in the US, in the video's case, Michigan.

Tried them out, fantasic so far. Really have a nice feel to them. Got one fish, small, but the rods worked well, fight's the fish well under tip, but casts very well too. Really nice rods thus far. On the reels, very nice. Do wish they had more than one line clip though, only fault I have with them.

Planning to give them a go shortly, whenever daylight breaks(just 5am here as of this post). Will report how they perform.

Thanks to all who replied. That's a relief. With American rods, I've never seen any thing like it. Also the previous carp rods wasn't like that. And when looking at rods online, the spigot isn't exactly something I pay attention to. Thanks everyone.

Recently bought two 3Ib tc NGT Dynamic 12' rods. Seem rather nice, MUCH thinner and lighter than my old fibreglass ones, despite being a stiffer, heavier action rod. But a problem I have encountered is that the rods won't go completely together at the spigot. As far as I can get it still leaves 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch to go. Now I have heard of this problem before. One solution I've read is to sand the male section a bit with sandpaper so the female section will fit over it, but I'm rather uneasy with this. Any other solutions?

And here is a video of the trout fishing there. Not exactly the greatest fish handling in the world, and as much a ad for their brand of salmon eggs, but gives a good showing of the river and the fish.

Here's one that has some solo canoes appearing. Unfortunately, the video largely focuses on a single spot.

Honestly, more showing off the water than the idea of kayaking or canoeing it. There are far more wild and dangerous waters out there(including in this state), but there has been a few killed on this river. It's called the Tellico river, a very well-known mountain trout stream not that far from where I live, as the crow flys. Been there myself several times, beautiful. Thing is, the water in the video is high from heavy rain. Largely not anywhere as fast or rough under normal conditions.

Would you?

I got the small and large loaders, love'em.

PVA bags are the main reason I'm moving up to 3Ib tc. That, and to have a bit more distance at my disposal.

It weighs 150 grams if I recall, so it should cast like a rocket. But if you use it in water with alot of snags, the chances of having it lost is too great. And its extremely expensive, around 32£/$45 I think.

I can't speak for the sensor, as I haven't tried it, but the big game is a fairly decent line. Its fairly strong and has decent abrasion resistance, but while fairly OK on a fixed spool/spinning reel, its far, far better on a multiplier reel, which the line was more designed for, I think.

Finding things such as bloodworms instantly came to mind when I saw it. Its expensive though, wouldn't want snag up on something, or it crack off on the cast and lose one.

Found this gadget: Any opinions?

Would that DF happen to pretain to a certain Mr Fairbrass? One whose company has swivels that cost nearly as much as one of the rods do?

35mm is what the butt rig on my rods looks to be...maybe less. Also, one of the rods is a bit softer and less powerful then the other, and often get mixed up between the two, which is a pain sometimes. Being accurate with my cast is something I really need to work on. I was decent with the much shorter, often 7ft rods I fish for other species with, but have a bit more trouble with the longer rods.

The reels I have on them are Nash BP-6s, which are nice reels, but I certainly should have got a bit bigger reels, and I do like baitrunners better. The line is Gardner Hydrotuff in 15Ib, which is a good line for my case, as there are gravel and rocks galore in some places in my nearby reservoirs, and that style of line stands up to them a bit better. The leads I use tend to be both inline and swiveled pears, 1.5oz for running rigs, and 3oz for bolt rigs. Also use a varity of method feeders from less than a ounce, to 3oz. While I admit I'm not the best and most accurate caster in the world, I certainly get the impression they aren't the most accurate rods in the world. They are also thick, clunky, and heavy compared to a carbon rod. I actually had NGT's entry level carbon rods before I got the even cheaper glass ones, and they were good....until one shattered when I was making a cast with a mere 1.5oz lead and small pva stick....🙁

The rods I currently have are two 12ft 2.75tc NGT Carp Max rods, basically the cheapest of the cheap. They do a decent job, but they are a bit on the heavy side, and thick too. Also, they can't really cast that far, maybe to 125-150ft, which is fine in most instances by far, but there may be times I need to go further. Thats one reason I'm also thinking of a 3Ib test curve, to possibly get more distance if I need it, while not having too stiff of a rod that it increases hook pulls and possible mouth damage to the fish.