daleg2008 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Just noticed i have some snakeskin coated braid. when i bought it i was suffering from tangles and all sorts. anyway as i have improved my fishing i am tempted to use it again. i was thinking of a combi rig, but just the multi-strand for the hook end and fluoro carbon as a stiff boom. whats the best way of setting a combi up, a knot or a teflon rig ring? the multi strand has always facinated me, but im scared to use it. also is it the multi-strand or supersilk that can take the colour of the lake bed? thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Its the Multistrand that can take the colour of the lake bed because Merlin is a green and white colour if i remember right. And the best thing to use for your combi rig is a knot, not a ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfield Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 thats answered my next post good man tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moorsey Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 The albright knot to join the braid to the mono and make sure that the length of braid is shorter than the length of the hook shank. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daleg2008 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Cheers guy's. anyone had much luck in using just the multi-strand as a hooklink? whats the reason behind the majority of you prefer to use a knot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daleg2008 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 make sure that the length of braid is shorter than the length of the hook shank.Keith why's that Keith? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 make sure that the length of braid is shorter than the length of the hook shank.Keith why's that Keith? Im stumped as well. When i tie my own, true, combi rigs out of 2 different materials, the braided section can be as little as half an inch, upto two thirds of the entire length of the hooklink. For e.g. If my hooklink is 9 inches, then the braided section will be 3 inches in length. It works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moorsey Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 make sure that the length of braid is shorter than the length of the hook shank.Keith why's that Keith? Im stumped as well. When i tie my own, true, combi rigs out of 2 different materials, the braided section can be as little as half an inch, upto two thirds of the entire length of the hooklink. For e.g. If my hooklink is 9 inches, then the braided section will be 3 inches in length. It works for me. Two reasons that have been discovered after doing many many tests. 1. The shorter the length of braid the less prone to tangles. 2. The closer the actual "hinge" (ie the connection between braid and mono) to the hook the more of an angle the hook makes when it "drops" down into the carp's mouth. This angle is the edge for getting a good hook hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Well that might be worth a bit of experimenting but if you use such a short length of braid (considering some hooks have a short shank) IMO there isnt much room to actually tie the knot and get it tight. I think it will be much easier just to use coated braid and carefully strip a 2mm section of outer material off, to get the 'hinge' effect, right near the eye of the hook. But like i said, there is some experimenting to do there to compare results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moorsey Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Well that might be worth a bit of experimenting but if you use such a short length of braid (considering some hooks have a short shank) IMO there isnt much room to actually tie the knot and get it tight. I think it will be much easier just to use coated braid and carefully strip a 2mm section of outer material off, to get the 'hinge' effect, right near the eye of the hook. But like i said, there is some experimenting to do there to compare results. Hi Tony The trick that I use is to tie the braid to the fluoro first and then tie the hook using a "snell" knot. If you start the snell knot with the fluor/braid knot against the eye of the hook when you finally pull it all tight you end up with a very short hinge. It has been nailing some very big carp for me already this season so it's well worth trying mate. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Cheers fella, i will look into that knot to see how you tie it cos it would add another chink in my armoury for sure. Nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok ive just tried the snell knot (which is the same as a whipping knot on a choddy) on a combi rig and here is my effort..... I cannot get the gap between the knot and the eye of the hook any smaller (in this case its 10mm) but the braided section definately isnt any longer than the shank of the hook (in this case a size 6 ESP Big T). But with a bit more practice i might be able to get it shorter if needs be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zander1 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 This is interesting, I use the mahin knot and a whiping knot on the hook (may well be called a snell?? its not the knotless knot anyway) and i have tied them with tiny hinges (3mm no joke) and others upto about 3 inches (i dont like that large of a gap). I use E-S-P Sinklink and either Fox rigidy stiff link or seagaur fluro (for a softer option, but still stiffer than fox coretex which is my normal coated braid). My prefered combi is aound 4 or 5 inches of the seaguar fluro with a fig of eight knot for attaching to a clip link and personaly i prefer around 1- 1.5 cm for the hinge, using a size 8 ssc hook. It seems to work for me but i dont fish waters containing big fish and so i cant comment on how it will work on 20-30lbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moorsey Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok ive just tried the snell knot (which is the same as a whipping knot on a choddy) on a combi rig and here is my effort..... I cannot get the gap between the knot and the eye of the hook any smaller (in this case its 10mm) but the braided section definately isnt any longer than the shank of the hook (in this case a size 6 ESP Big T). But with a bit more practice i might be able to get it shorter if needs be. That looks good Tony. If you hold the "stiff" section horizontally you will see what I mean about the way the hook drops on the hinge mate. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daleg2008 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Some interesting comments from both of you! i will get cracking and see what comes of it. I'm not reall that good at making rig's at the moment. So doubt it will turn out as good as yours Tony Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Its not that hard fella, a simple knotless knot on braid is simplicity in itself. I have never bought a ready made rig in my life and will never do so either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daleg2008 Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Its not that hard fella, a simple knotless knot on braid is simplicity in itself. I have never bought a ready made rig in my life and will never do so either. I'm getting better at it, i'm trying to use 3 rigs for different situations. So far i have caught on 2 which are a basic boilie rig which is very simple. it can be used for bottom and pop up. the other one is a critically balanced rig, for this i have used a agressive hair(kd rig i suppose) so far i have used a size 6 hook which has enough weight to balance a single piece of fake corn. now looking into a 3rd rig, this is so i dont get confused with rigs and can concentrate on catching them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Dont fall into the trap of thinking that you need loads of rigs. Stick to 2 or 3 which should cover all of your fishing situations and get your confidence in them and i guarantee that you can take them to any water knowing full well that you can and do catch on them. That way you can save all the hard work for location and watercraft which is faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr more important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trakker1 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Its not that hard fella, a simple knotless knot on braid is simplicity in itself. I have never bought a ready made rig in my life and will never do so either. I buy all mine now ready made as quote all mine i make are rubbish and a waste of time still dont go anyway , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zander1 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Its not that hard fella, a simple knotless knot on braid is simplicity in itself. I have never bought a ready made rig in my life and will never do so either. Same- i only trust my own knots and if something goes wrong i only have my self blame. I love tying my own rigs anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybranno Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I love tying my own rigs anyway I also tie the majority of mine on the bankside now. I will tie a couple up at home and put them in the wallet just to get me started when i first arrive at the venue, but if things change, or i need to adjust something, then out comes the materials and i can tie one there and then to suit the situation. Its much better that way IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zander1 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I love tying my own rigs anyway I also tie the majority of mine on the bankside now. I will tie a couple up at home and put them in the wallet just to get me started when i first arrive at the venue, but if things change, or i need to adjust something, then out comes the materials and i can tie one there and then to suit the situation. Its much better that way IMO. I totally agree with you Tony, i think that doing this has put more fish on the bank for me as the hook is sharper than one thats been used. Plus- the rig is the perfect length for what i want to do that day and the materials are more easily matched to the lake bed costs a bit more material wise but i think its worth it Ive still got my tried and trusted rigs in my wallet- but i always check the hook point- if its not out the packet sharp- it doesnt get used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salokcinnodrog Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Its not that hard fella, a simple knotless knot on braid is simplicity in itself. I have never bought a ready made rig in my life and will never do so either. I buy all mine now ready made as quote all mine i make are rubbish and a waste of time still dont go anyway , Practice makes perfect. I would never buy a ready made rig. If a knot breaks who is to blame? Yet if it happens on a rig you have made yourself you know who is at fault. It is not hard to tie a simple knotless knot to the hook, and a knot to the swivel. The knotless knot can be covered in Shrink or silicon tubing for a line aligner. https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 I carry a ready selection of rigs I have tied myself, although admittedly my Combi rigs are 2/3 to 1/3. I don't tie on the bank, as I have spent many hours often watching the fish and know what I need to achieve, although I think with a running lead rig, length is not as important as it is with a Semi-Fixed/Bolt rig set-up I'll have to have a play with your idea for Combi set-ups, although as mine are currently working it may take me a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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