daleg2008

Size 8 What size bait are you using? i use 18mm or 20mm with size 5 and size 4 hooks.

Agreed increase the hair length, basic physics really. be warned though ive hooked a few pasties in the belly etc... as they get frustrated that they cant eat the bait, they roll on the bottom and somemtimes pick up the hook. or if your not short on money or bait then feed them off with particles in another area of the lake.

A uncaught carp is an easier carp to hook in my opinion. i came up with this conclussion when i hooked a pristine 23lb common that some how evaded capture. its believed that you can tell that a carp hasn't been hooked because of the flap of skin in there mouth. some people believe that this disappears after the hook penetration wound heals. i believe this to an extent, but i think it takes a few hookings for it to deteriate. so if the carp has never been caught or the flap of the skin is large then the hook has something else to catch on. as wilfster said some carp have softer mouths because the lake is silty etc... and some have harder mouths because they feed on gravel etc... the lake im on now i can tell which carp prefer grubbing around in the silt and the ones who prefer the cleaner areas. the ones who are regular silt grubbers as i call them have jet black mouths where the silt has stained them. just something else i thought i would throw in

Any chance you could expand on that statement? My survey of what rig to put out is based on length more than anything else. I have now grown comfortable with fishing a curve shank hook on a simple knotless knot rig made out of supernova. Mainly because i rushed into the hype of rig making without understanding it and just got my self confused From what i can figure out is the rig should be decided on the lake bed and the food item you are using. My basic rule of thumb is if in silt then use a longish rig especially if fishing boilie, but what happens if you fish silt with particles? as they say smaller food items you should use a small rig as the carp are not moving and could eject a long rig very easily. Then gravel ban its clean you can shorten the rig because of no chance of the rig burying. Am i correct in saying that? Its the same with the lead system, that should be decided on what the lake bottom is, shouldn't it? as i feel a lead clip inline etc.... is virtually useless in silt or soft clay etc... as the lead goes first which could leave the hooklink swivel buried and making the presentation awfull. Whats your views guy's?

Waders are on my list of things to get atm. just short on cash bloke turned up on a work party the other day with a pair of chesties he had bought from Aldi for a £5 dunno if they still do em or not i have never been to Aldi but could be worth a try nice one ill check it out

Whats the verdict on backleads and indication then? someone on here must use them?

the same as above

why because not every fishing situation requires a slack line.

So backleads and float stops. anyone know what indication is like on straight through mainline with a running lead and using a backlead? cheers

Waders are on my list of things to get atm. just short on cash

I all ready use x-line, but i doubt it is on the bottom when fished on a tight line. unless you know otherwise? i watched a carp come up from my rig and follow the mainline up and swim under the rod tips. i thought you cheeky blighter

Anyone got and ideas of pinning straight through mainline down? the obvious ones are putty and flying backleads, but big lumps of putty will expensive if you lose them and flying back leads change the line angle to much. any ideas welcome cheers.

Tony.bi wouldn't know i use amnesia in 15lb and size 6 stiff rigger or fox ssc. i had a dabble with the bristle, but didn't get on to well. 3 bits of pop up corn with a piece of cork between each piece is good. this was my first experiment as it was a runs water and didnt respond that well to boilies. ive never tried tiger nuts yet, but should imagine its the same principle as the corn. i used to drill my pop ups 3 quarters the way through and plugged with cork. this made them a bit more buoyent. untill havin a blonde moment and learning that boiling paste and wrapping it around a cork ball is the same thing.

if you dont want to use boilies on the chod you can use pop up corn or tiger nut. the enterprise ones should be buoyent enough if not use a piece of matching foam as well.

The whole point of side hooking a bead is that it grips whatever its side hooked on. there is no set diameter like on the normal holes, whatever diameter you pierce through rubber it will grip and not move freely. thats why side piercing beads on any leader is a big no no! but maybe your moving freely is different to mine. i used to set my leader beads that light that you could sneeze and they would come off. i use to replace all the leadcore beads that came with it with 6mm or 8mm beads that looked huge, but passed any small loop and kneedle knot in a breeze. the question is how many people bother? i feel sorry for the day ticket water carp

why, because side hooking it would leave it tight on the mainline which is not ideal at all. the carp would be left towing the lead and the mainline if the breakage was above the top bead. no way would a side hooked bead move espescially on the mainline. I do sometimes wonder about about a leader, as if it works properly then its the safer option. even if a running rig snapped a few foot up the mainline minus the lead could still ball up and tether just as bad. i might have a play with some leaders and some large beads before deciding mainline straight through.

thats not exactly safe either? i think some 0.5mm silicone is on order, that should hold the top bead enough for the cast.

Mainline isn't as rigid as tubing or a leader, so it could get damaged or kinked easier leading it to curl up and prevent the beads from parting the line. this is bearing in mind that the breakage is above the top bead. see what i mean? or have i got the wrong end of the stick of how to set it up on the mainline?

I was thinking mainline straight through, but im not sure if the beads will come off?!

Reply back with your findings

I read on another forum that it was one of the safest set ups!? i can see your point, but i would of thought the bead slips off like on any leader. ok that means using a leader! any reccomendations?

Hi guy's i want to use a helicopter lead arrangement, but not on leadcore. i have became a massive tubing freak either running rig or lead clip style. my favourite are esp anchor and rig marole. it would be nice if i could make a helicopter rig on them. if someone knows a ready made kit available with very heavy tubing then ill look into that, if not any beads specially designed for tubing work? at the moment im wondering how you attach the beads on the tubing? also is it ok to tie the lead straight to the mainline? anyone who has had experience with heli rigs and tubing would be helping loads, as i dont want to use leadcore or those korda safezone things. thanks dale

I might tie it on the shank. i think the bend would be better for them not to suss you out to easily, as the knotless knot leaves the shank. yeah i want the hair as thin as possible. i also know thought about balancing the bait, but then putting a shot underneath the hook eye so when the bait is eventually sucked in the extra weight shold drop the hook.

You don't need to waste money on anti tangle booms A piece of silicon tube, or even a Tail Rubber slid over the hooklink swivel will do the same job , although Solar do (sorry, can't bring myself to recommend ESP gear now, not since they are making ready tied Death Rigs ) I've found some of these float aswell. Especially when using a very supple braid. Also the Esp Heat Shrink floats when used to cover the swivel, thats wehn its shrunk down aswell. They lift the rig off the bottom. jogon26 When you get to the lake and decide what rig you want to use make another 3 exactly the same rightdown to the mm. it may sound daft but really supple changes could drastically change results. Once you have 4 rigs the same put the super stiff on all 4 rigs i give it a good 30 minutes to dry up. I have found this is when it is really stiff. while you are waiting for them to dry you can then do offer stuff set up your bivvy watch the water etc..... now put two in your rig wallet and attach the other two rigs to your rods. so now when you catch a carp or say get your cast wrong you can tie on the two all ready stiff rigs without waiting for them to dry again. make as many rigs as you want depending on casting skill Its just i don't find the reccomended time of 90 seconds isn't long enough for me to be confident in casting them without tangling. especially when they are wet!

Probably a couple of ways http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=22185 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416 From the bottom link I remember Andy Little explaining that he found it easier to make a continuation from the hook knot and down the shank, (can be done with the knotless knot or any knot to include a hair material inside the knot barrel) held in place with a couple of pieces of silicone, but you know about that one, cos I remember your Silicon splitting Try getting a length of mono/or hair material, roughly double the length you want as a hair. Double Overhand knot the 2 ends together, you then have a loop at the other end. Put loop alongside hook bend, then the knotted piece put over hook bend and down through the loop. Put bait in loop and then put stop in. (Does that make sense?). It is a double thickness hair, but the tight loop doesn't slip far Or get your hair material, tie loop in end for bait stop, then attach to hook with a grinner or blood knot on the bend. Yeah i know what you mean. Well my theory is that how many people actually use a proper hair rig? the knotless knot is so easy to tie so i would dare to say 90% of anglers tie their hair in this manner. This is where it got me thinking. when they first used them i beleive they had problems with the hook turning and catching hold? well with all the hook patterns we have available today maybe there is a way around it and still tying it to the bend of the hook? i was thinking of a curv shank with shrink tubing and trying out different angles to try and get a decent hook hold. I beleive the whole idea of the hair was when the carp mouthed the bait they felt no hook? now days they might of grown acustom to feeling for braid? its still thin in diameter but is it thin enough? Ill also play around with the breaking strain in the mono and might try and get hold of some really thin braid. Its going to be a fiddly job, but how many anglers would bother? Hopefully be tryng my ideas out on Friday on a local day ticket water. its not hard, but its not easy so should be a good testing ground. i will note the hook holds and give each rig a fair chance. i will post results if anyone would be interested? Slack Lines Dale