mooseman Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Adam, please don't take this as a personal attack in any way, that's not my style and definitely not my intention. However if you don't understand the danger to the fish in using leadcore, regardless of length or arrangement, in my opinion you shouldn't use it at all. I use it for some things, but only in the shortest length required for the rig, and I think very hard and very carefully about what could happen if:- The lead comes off? The line snaps? The leader kinks? A bit of weed gets in the loop? A bead jams on some silkweed? The fish swims into a snag trailing it? And so on and so on. dominpe, newmarket and salokcinnodrog 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salokcinnodrog Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 10feet of anything apart from main line is frankly, ridiculous!On a weed and snag free lake a 10ft shock leader is not long enough, you need around 12 feet to prevent snap-offs. Again on a clear water where you need a fluorocarbon leader for 'invisibility', 10ft is around right I reckon. Sorry mate, I really think you need to think your arguments through properly. As an aside, and in response to Mooseman, I refuse to use Lead clips for various reasons. I don't often want to eject the lead, I use generic swivels, as in I don't buy one end tackle manufacturers bits, I have a variety that suits, and I don't think that I should be forced to buy overpriced swivels from Korda, Nash or Fox just to suit a lead clip, or I use a tail rubber for more than one purpose, and so have loads of tail rubbers, but why would I buy Nash tail rubbers when I already have plenty just to suit his lead clip. As he says, a lead clip tail rubber can be jammed on by a bit of weed, the leadcore on a pendant or inline set-up is a danger in itself, even if the lead comes off, the leadcore is an inherent trailing weight. Basically leadcore should only ever be used with a heli set-up, and even then, you have to be sure that the beads and rig can be ejected, as a kink can trap a standard bead, stopping the rib coming off the end. On that helicopter set-up, you actually rely on the lead NOT being ejected, so that rig CAN be ejected! beanz and mooseman 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamkitson Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 I use it for some things, but only in the shortest length required for the rig, and I think very hard and very carefully about what could happen if:- The lead comes off? The line snaps? The leader kinks? A bit of weed gets in the loop? A bead jams on some silkweed? The fish swims into a snag trailing it? And so on and so on. Leadcore is in my opinion as safe as the user makes it. And Basically leadcore should only ever be used with a heli set-up, and even then, you have to be sure that the beads and rig can be ejected, as a kink can trap a standard bead, stopping the rib coming off the end. On that helicopter set-up, you actually rely on the lead NOT being ejected, so that rig CAN be ejected! Yeah I'm not a fan of dropping the lead on a rotary rig with any kind of leader. I personally like the idea of a naked/on the line setup with a lead drop system, and a leader setup with a fixed lead. Always tubing for lead clips and safety lead drop setups with tubing for inlines. So I've never fished a situation where I've needed a shock leader. Perhaps I should have specified that I meant shorter concealment leaders such as lead core/safe zone etc. Apart from that your saying exactly what I said back to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamkitson Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Anyway, if anything I've said on this or any other thread has come across as unconsidered or argumentative then I apologise, and assure you, it is unintentional. There are so many opinions, so many rules, so many options available. Some lakes have barbed hooks only, some barbless only. Some bean mats only, some cradles only. Some safe zone only, some no safe zone. Etc etc etc. I think it's fair to say that any conscientious carp angler considers the safety of their quarry when setting up in any fishing situation. There is inherent risk to the fish just by fishing for it. i guess what we've experienced personally is what shapes what we see as safe or not. salokcinnodrog 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salokcinnodrog Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Anyway, if anything I've said on this or any other thread has come across as unconsidered or argumentative then I apologise, and assure you, it is unintentional. There are so many opinions, so many rules, so many options available. Some lakes have barbed hooks only, some barbless only. Some bean mats only, some cradles only. Some safe zone only, some no safe zone. Etc etc etc. I think it's fair to say that any conscientious carp angler considers the safety of their quarry when setting up in any fishing situation. There is inherent risk to the fish just by fishing for it. i guess what we've experienced personally is what shapes what we see as safe or not. Adam, I think that to some extent almost every angler is influenced by tackle manufacturers, what they say, advise and sell, and even to some extent by the name of the tackle. The Safezone range of tackle does not mean that the tackle is safe for the fish, but that there is supposedly a safe feeding zone around the end tackle. Safe zone as in the area is not going to spook the fish by feeling the leader, or safe as in camouflaged so they can't see it. However, in the event of a snap or break-off, the tackle may be a risk if the fish gets snagged. I really don't like leaders of any sort, they create an extra knot, an extra weak spot in the tackle, as the first knot from rod tip to tackle is usually the one that breaks under pressure. So if that is the leader knot, that is where it breaks. If you fish straight through to a swivel or quick link clip, it breaks there, and that leaves the carp just trailing a hooklink only, compared to pulling a leader around with the risk of snagging and tethering that involves. Also a large looped leader, with a bit of weed, or even some au naturale, the lead clip, bead or swivel and rig won't pass over the leader knot meaning a fish is stuck with that lot behind it. This makes another point, a lead clip I don't think is always the safest option. The lead link itself can catch up on weed and rubbish, whereas a sliding run ring is the safer option, it will slide off the leader, even if the line balls up as it snaps, yet a lead clip will be trapped. Lead clips are designed to stay on the swivel full stop, clicking in, being pegged in place, however the manufacturer makes it, yet some manufacturers have been advocating using a lead clip for a running lead, which is a flawed idea to my thoughts. To my mind, the only safe place for a leader is when the lake is snag and weed free, and you need a shockleader to give it a big cast for distance. However as you say, lake rules may mean that leaders are banned, that is where you have to consider the breaking strain and diameter of your line to get the distance you require, or fish short! I guess if you used braided mainline, subject to rules, then to avoid damaging the fish, you would consider a length of leader to avoid cutting a fish up, or cover the last length near the fish with tubing. Again, a leader. I have seen a braided mainline used, then a leader, then a length of leadcore all on one set-up, imagine the mess that little lot could be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamkitson Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Yup, fully aware of the reason for the term "safe zone." I couldn't agree more. In my posts I have said that the only rig I use a leader of any kind on is a rotary rig, and I invariably use dark matter/safe zone for this mainly because of the relative lack of kinking possibility and the no trace bead. For all other lead setups I use tubing. I'm happy with lead clips. Caught two on them yesterday and the lead was gone on the take. That for me is ideal in most situations. I don't feel the need to always fish a running rig on tubing, but I know some do and fair play if that's their choice. I'm lucky that this is all I need. I'm not a big caster. I favour fishing up to 60 yards, not much past, as I have more confidence in my accuracy when baiting up at shorter ranges. So I have no need for a shock leader at all. I can comfortably put a 2-2.5 oz lead to the usual 30-40 yards risk free just on main line. Shock leader followed by leadcore followed by rig!?! That sounds like a teathered fish waiting to happen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlaaar Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Just to bump this again, I'm still using this lead set up; especially as I'm casting a long way at the moment. I only own two rods, so they have to perform a multitude of uses, and this presentation provides everything I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildalton1982 Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 I think in my lowly opinion, if you want to use a leader, please fish strong, stronger than you normally would then there wouldnt be this problem of shedding this n that or leaving fish with hooklink etc. Fish strong and safe. 20lb line to a leader minimum Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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