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Posted

I rarely use anything but, unless fishing at range. Lead clips leave so much room for movement, I just don't see why people are so obsessed!

If you use a coated braid, or something stuff as a hooklink, I wouldn't worry about tangles, and just fish it naked, if you use a soft braid I would suggest using anti tangle tubing. Other than that, as simple as you like set up, with absolute direct contact between lead and fish as soon as the bait is picked up, no daft swivels and lead clip noncence.

Posted

I go along with what milky says mate although i tend to use running rigs/leads only . Just think indication is so much better .

Re inlines , take a look at joe morgan's inline set up/explanation on you tube .

Good article & plenty of food for thought.

Posted

Thanks Newmarket, I had seen that before good vid

 

I plan to only use the light 1.75oz inlines, is that too light do you feel

 

Tend not to use above 2oz leads and Fox go 1.75 then 2.25oz !

Posted

Well if it works as well in practice as jm SAYS it does , bearing in mind he's waving em about in mid air and NOT in underwater conditions then a light lead should be fine .

I'm a bit sceptical about it tbh , i would have thought the principle of "the fish moving the lead to prick the fish " would work better with heavier leads .

Then of course there is the age old question of whether the carp use the weight of the lead to eject the rig ?

 

No such doubts (imho) with running set ups ...

Posted

I'm not sure that the lead is ever responsible for hooking the fish, unless the carps acceleration and the lead weight are at absolute...

 

I used to use 2-3oz inlines a lot (but not for around 10 years, went to running leads), a length of tubing, braided hooklink and know I could stick the whole lot in a bag.

 

My thought was always that the quicker the fish moved off and got to the lead, with least movement from the lead and the hooklink swivel, then the sooner the hook would pr ick and the run would be indicated. Fished with a dead tight line, absolutely no slack and the indicator at the top just under the rod. It worked for years with monkey climbers, and then with swingers.

 

I used the standard Korda leads, and plastic inserts supplied, then lighter flamed and belled the end of the insert on the hooklink end. Over that I would then fix a neoprene sleeve and that locked over the swivel.

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