Leadcore free alternative for chod rig

[salokcinnodrog]

 

 

Something like this you mean

 

 

 

A length of stiff tubing, and a Tail rubber at the end, and a large ring swivel.

 

The beads are soft rubber beads, and under LIGHT pressure do release, so there is no way that the fish should get snagged up and be left trailing any more than just a rig. The length of tubing can be used as a short length shown, or can be used longer if you would like a more Silt style set-up. As can be seen from the second pic, the lead is held onto a quick link swivel by the wide end of the tail rubber.

The beads do pull free, so that the rig can be ejected

 

If you use it with a leader, please make sure that the top bead can slide over the leader knot and that the rig swivel can also go over it, although any leader increases the chance of a tethered fish. I would suggest that if there are any snags or weed then the leader is dispensed with.

[Bazmati]

I now (having only just heard about it yesterday bizarrely enough) prefer the hollow leadcore method

The ends must be gently burnt before threading the line through (this gives the top bead a slight buffer to stop it being completely free running)

The top bead can be plugged with a bit of spaghetti or better still a piece of PVA solid stick if you are using a big lead, big bait, or PVA mesh bag

And the bottom of the leadcore sleeve must be glued to the bottom mainline knot or tied with the mainline

I never put any sleeves over swivels on at the lead end, to me it looks tacky, bulky and obvious, it is swivel off, plug a 6mm rubber bead over the wire loop and put another rubber bead above that = perfect minimal buffer

[WillbeCarpin]

I use something similar to the one pictured above, but i use a avid chod bead and a little putty above to help pin my main line down and i use a large buffer bead over the swivel on the lead and only use 1oz leads ( can still chuck them a long way ) i believe the weight of the lead is not really important because the weight of the line when sunk is more than enough to hook the fish and the light lead close to the fishes mouth during the play is not heavy enough for the fish to shake it about to dislodge the hook where a heavy lead would, and if i was to use a heavier lead to get more distance i would want to drop the lead in play. I also use micro barbed hooks always i believe they do less damage to a fishes mouth because once they go in they stay in where a barbless can slip and tear creating big wounds in the carps mouth.

 

[Lee Kashan]

My mate said the Avid lead free leader is very good

Dragon Carp had a massive spool of lead free leader cheap, didn't try it it was ages ago now anyway

[Lee Kashan]

On 01/05/2016 at 10:36, Bazmati said:

I now (having only just heard about it yesterday bizarrely enough) prefer the hollow leadcore method

The ends must be gently burnt before threading the line through (this gives the top bead a slight buffer to stop it being completely free running)

The top bead can be plugged with a bit of spaghetti or better still a piece of PVA solid stick if you are using a big lead, big bait, or PVA mesh bag

And the bottom of the leadcore sleeve must be glued to the bottom mainline knot or tied with the mainline

I never put any sleeves over swivels on at the lead end, to me it looks tacky, bulky and obvious, it is swivel off, plug a 6mm rubber bead over the wire loop and put another rubber bead above that = perfect minimal buffer

EXACTLY like me mate. I love a minimal helicopter, I use an ordinary bead plugged over the wire loop on the lead (swivel removed always) and a bead above that, or a bead off a Drennan quick change bead sometimes fits perfectly, used alone as they are quite a big bead.. I have a little tip here which might interest people, loop the mainline and tie a good double overhand, about two or three inches above the lead.. Loop the lead through (dead neat) and that little knot makes a great place to gently stick a bit of silicone and a bead onto.. The doubled up line is more resistant to that ''pinch point'' factor with the swivel pulling on line playing a fish.. I only ever use high quality smooth Japanese Hi Performance swivels and min. 12lb line.. exquisite little minimal setup I use loads.. obviously on some waters not allowed as there is no tubing or 'core ''rub zone'', but gorgeous to use.. NB I only go about absolute minimum 6 inch link on there though, usually more like 7 or 8 upwards.. Cos you have to be careful with more short rigs getting into chod territory to have a buffer, otherwise the lead is bonking about at the face of the carp and can also bonk the hook out and weaken the hookhold, i.e can get a bit mouth damagey fished too short and minimal IMO..

[Lee Kashan]

4 minutes ago, Big Common said:

The Dragon stuff was a bit mis leading. It may have been lead free, but it's got some kind of wire running through the core. Horrendous stuff, totally stiff, I got a refund.

Lol.. Probably hammerite coated fencing wire

Edited September 27, 2017 by Lee Kashan

[Rich7]

On 29/03/2014 at 08:49, theobeeus said:

 

I can sort of see your point, but leadcore doesn't lift scales, and barbless hooks are far more damaging than microbarbed, and carp do not suffocate out of water for a good few hours.. Hopefully most people are are very carefully playing fish, landing them and treating them right o the bank, and weighing, photographing and returning them with less than 3+ hours faffing, and also keeping an eye out for bad anglers, otters, gill nets, long lines, litter and pollution and providing carp with a valuable food source while they're at it.

In short, bad fishing is most definitely worse than safER fishing, which is the point of the thread.

Why are barbless hooks more dangerous than micro barbed .  I assumed barbless were the safest 

[yonny]

8 minutes ago, Rich7 said:

Why are barbless hooks more dangerous than micro barbed .  I assumed barbless were the safest 

There is a school of thought that barbed hooks, once penetrated, are locked in place by the barb. Barbless on the other hand can move/slide/rotate during the fight which can lead to tearing and similar associated mouth damage.