willi4692

Linear Fisheries
7 lakes on day ticket and 3 on syndicate
 
£25-24 hour 3 rods - prices are higher on hunts corner
 
Carp to 45+, good tench, bream, pike and pleasure species as well
 
Toilets, showers and secure parking
 
http://www.linear-fisheries.co.uk/

I think a lot of it is due to how most of their "tips" are just product placement. I also think a lot of their products are overpriced, their hooks aren't sharp (I also don't like the beaked points) and some of their products are promoted as "safe" when I don't believe they are.
 
I don't hate Korda, I actually use and rate a number of their products and I appreciate their attempts to educate young anglers.

I'm the same, I've never had a problem with Kryston hooklink materials giving way on me, although I always check and double check my knots after I failed to do so after landing a fish and the knot gave way. I had a combi rig, Amnesia to Merlin, and after landing a 20 on it, I cast it out and the combi join knot way. It was my fault, I didn't check after playing a strong fighting fish and cast straight out.
 
That means to me, after every fish, before every cast or on retrieve, check your mainline for damage in case you've fragged it, especially near the end tackle as run rings, lead clips stress, gravel and snags can take chunks and frag your line.
 
The most common cause for a breakage is a badly tied or wrong knot for the material or even sliding the knot down without lubricating it.(Do NOT use a blood knot with braids!)
 
My Kryston problem was that the coating on Jackal I found a bit weak and would split, ( coating only) when I did snug the Uni knot down properly even when it was salivated on.
 
As for braids coated and uncoated, with the exception of Jackal (for me personally) look no further than Kryston; Merlin, Silkworm, Mantis, Snakebite or Snakeskin etc will not let you down

Is it just braid you are after? I'm not a big fan of braids, but I would recommend using any of the Kryston braids. Really strong and reliable. 

It's worth noting that what happened to this fish can just as easily happen with a barbed hook. A couple of times before I have had hook pulls and the hook has caught hold in the carp's pectoral. It's a part of fishing that is out of our control, it is a rare occurrence but something that is always possible. 

It can happen very easily, although it usually doesn't cause damage as severe as this. If a hook pulls with a fish facing any direction other than straight at the rod, the hook has a chance of hooking another part of the fish. 
 
Unless rules dictate otherwise, I always use a barbed hook. Barbless hooks can move during the fight creating larger holes in a fishes mouth, where as a barbed hook will lock in place and won't slip. The only danger a barbed hook poses to excess mouth damage is when they are being used by anglers that don't know how to remove them. 

I think it looks fine. I would swap the ring for a ring swivel but otherwise it should be presented ok.
 
The chod is a viable option, but I have experienced the chod to be completely ineffective on some silty waters. Although the rig is presented where the carp can always take it, a pop up can be above where the fish are feeding. Remember on particularly silty waters the carp are used to feeding deep into the silt to find food, a pop up on top of the silt is just not where they're used to feeding and can be counter productive. Last winter I did a lot of my fishing on Walthamstow 2 and 3, the bottom is almost entirely silt and I went straight in with chod rigs. I fished bright single hookbaits and blanked four consecutive trips despite seeing signs of activity in front of me. I had a rethink and it was clear to me the fish preferred feeding deep in the silt and my chod rigs were presented above where they were feeding. I switched to bottom baits straight out the bag on a simple knotless knot rig using soft flurocarbon hooklinks, fished on a helicopter set up like yours. The next trip I caught three to 27lb+. 

Won't shout, but I'll try to explain:
 
Braid can be damaging and cutting as the line is under tension. In fact many braids are often the same material as leadcore, but the lead is wrapped in a sheath. As braid is thinner, and often made incorporating Kevlar (capital K due to tradename I think), it will cut the fish, unless covered with tubing, or fitted with a 'safer'(*) leader. In fact many fisheries stipulate this. Braid can catch and cut as the fish swims. These mainline braids are NOT the same as hooklink braids, but even some hooklink braids in finer (breaking) strains can cut, which is often why we use breaking strains often heavier than our mainline.
 
Mono filament, tends to slide over the fish. I have not seen a line cut from mono, although it is possible that a scale may be dislodged, I imagine on a scaley mirror. Mono does not dig in. You don't often use tubing when you are floater fishing, fishing zigs, and in my case often at all. Tubing was christened ANTI-TANGLE tubing, and was used to prevent tangles between hooklink and mainline
 
 
 
*'Safer' Leader being a relative term

I had a little chat with Ali Hamidi, via twitter, about this product. He was quick to state that it's just like using a lead clip and that fish trail line regularly (doesn't really answer how that's safe). I then mentioned the fashion of using leadcore with helicopter set ups and my fears of fish trailing long lengths of the stuff, to which he replied "never use more than 2ft of leadcore. None of us do". I think the "None of us do" remark meant the Korda team, which is clearly false as Danny Fairbrass has a video on the Korda site of him using a six foot length of leadcore for a chod rig and the packaging of Kable (Korda's leadcore) recommends five feet! I replied stating this and Mr Hamidi hasn't responded since.