zander1

Ive never stopped catching on freezer burnt boilies either, never noticed a difference between burnt and un burnt in catch results tbf i try to stop it being freezer burnt where i can but if it does get burnt ill still happily use it

Freeze it

It tells you on their website, £5 a day, or £50 a season That's interesting, its near my Girlfriends, may get the carp gear on the train

Ooops Yeh Yeh

Have a look at the Clarke controlled stretch mono- suple and very thin thin

I had this happen a few times last year- but only when using the korda longshank X hooks and leads of 4 ounce really When i started using 2ounce leads i only lost one fish to a hookpull, once i stopped using the lonkshank X (dont know why i had them in the first place) i didnt loose any (went back onto the SSC arma points) BTW- The lead setup was a running inline (starting as a bolt rig with the lead coming off the bead on the take as the carp tries to eject the hook- well that was my theory)

Thanks for the replies Lads, i have taken note It sounds like you have fished it then stoogi, any good???

Thanks Mate Ive been thinking about my end set-up for a while, including the chod as mentioned. I want to get my setup as close to perfect as possible and then just alter "length" as needed. I have a few set-ups ive been working on (the one will work like an underwater parachute on the hooklink hopefully) that i will use. (in conjunction with sensor brown mainline to the hooklink and no leader and either fox cortex or a fluro hooklink) but thats why i need to know the depth of the silt. I dont want to leave it till the last second and have to mess about on the bank, im thinking its going to be one cast a day unless i catch in between and cant take any chances with my presentation, (unless what i have been told about the fish being very shy/timid has been exagerated greatly) thankfully, PVA foam is easy to get free from my 6th form Hopeing to up my Pb if i catch

Hi all. I may be fishing at Leighton pools sometime this year and i have been told its mainly a very silty pool. I wondered if someone could tell me or give me an idea to the average depth of the silt (as it may be a one off trip and don't want to waste the trip messing about with set-ups that don't work). (would it swallow a lead about a foot, or more, or just a few inches???) Thanks, Jack

They are like the E-S-P ones. Your hooklink can come off them due to their shape, check them constantly as they work like a key ring but with a "leg" the leg makes them easier to let a hooklink come off i never lost a fish on them, but when i have caught on them in the past, during the fight the hooklink has worked its way around the clip- almost coming off each to there own, if im fishing and i dont want a hinge/pivot, i will use them and cover it with silicon completely but i tend not to use them atall now

Coated braid is great, ive gone back to the good old fox coretex for my bottom bait rigs

supple braid hooklink dave???

Daves is a good antitangle setup.

you can use it just like that

^ the xtra small klip with a section of a brown esp anti-tangle sleeve. ^hooklink clip with the brown korda silicone you can put pva mesh etc on the hook- twist and hook- cap with pva foam for improved presentation

I dont use sillicon to hide them, its to stop the chance of the hooklink coming off the clip, by using a segment of some rubber sleeve etc it stops the loop in the hooklink trveling back pat the lip of the hooklink clip. I cant explain so ill photograph it later

Yeh, like dave says, if you have any probs ill pm you a pic mate I like the extra hinge's that you can create with them Perfect rig presentation everytime (use fig of 8 knots) The link loops are ok, bit pointless tbf but good if you dont trust loop knots

I use the korda ones- perfection. I use the xtra small multipurpose korda klip, but i also use the actual small hooklink klip (korda do everything with a K ) They make life so easy. Cover them with silicon or a section of antitangle/helicopter sleeve or what ever If you damage one or its doesnt seem the right shape anymore- just change it for peace of mind

Im not using lead core much these days either bill, i do like it, but only in certain conditions the korda leaders are a bit expensive to get snagged up bill, i always end up in a tree or a snag with out fail another reason why i stopped using leaders They do look smart and i like tying rigs up on them, just havnt caught enough on them over the last year or so so i dont have much confidence in them anymore unless im on a runs water

What is it that you like about those damn things bill???? I cant get on with them, the don't sit right, the don't look right and they are not heavy enough to follow the lake bed ??????? Hell- might as well use tubing Im a realy "riggy" person and i cant get them to work how i want How do you do it??? Im starting to use no leader at all, like day one all those years ago when i started Ive used fluro leaders for a year (now into the second) this im trying a braid shock leader on teh one rod to see if i can get to the carp out on the dam wall (130-150 yards????) and im pretty sure there are some muscle bed knocking about out there so im using shock braid that i use for spoding- lets see how it goes later this year

Use your brain- There is no substitute for ingenuity It is very easy with a bit of thought, why does everybody want to use the chod anyway- fashion????

Use a 12" hook-link with a hook set up that you are confident in and see how it goes. if you aren't getting bites make it longer or shorter and see what works Also- i would avoid inline leads unless the carp are feeding in the silt I would recommend the brown fox cortex coated braid for your hook-link choice You can never really say for certain and you will need to experiment

Where do the carp feed, Do the carp feed on top of the silt or in the silt????? or even on clear patches/gravel bars????

THere are many reasons why you may need to change- The bottom you are fishing on How the carp Feed What bait you are using Your baiting method etc etc etc If what you are doing is working then dont change it however if you change your style of bait and baiting up you may need to make dramatic changes to your rig and so on. Dont change what you are doing until you have to

cut the tubing at a point and then push it into the helicopter tail rubber rubber that covers the lead swivel as far as you possibly can. you may need a bigger one than what you have in the picture. despite what some people/tackle companies say, dont glue the tubing to the rubber tail as it will go brittle and brake apart letting the tube slide up the line again and ruining your tail rubber. This is awkward to explain You cant really stop it, but you can help prevent it slightly lol