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My running rig


loopyandandy

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I read about so many complicated rigs, leadcore, flouro etc etc but i use a really simple rig.

 

I suppose im not 100% confident that it is the best it can be so can you more experienced carpers cast your beady eye over it and give me any pointers? Id really appreciate it.

 

Basically i got my hook (usually size 6-10 depending on bait) tied knotless with a hair that leaves approx 1-2cm between bait and hook. This is tied from 12lb flouro hooklength between 6-18inches long.

 

Then i got a small swivel between this hook length and 10lb mono mainline.

 

Above the swivel on the mainline i use a small bead, then my lead (usually use 1oz bullet shaped) then another small bead.

 

Im quite tidy with my knots and usually use clear shrink tube when i can.

 

What do you think?

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It sounds good as a Running Rig. The things I would do if possible is to:

A) have a flat sided Lead, to grip the lake bed better if possible.

 

B) use a larger lead to hold down to the lake bed.

 

Have a look at the threads Running vs Fixed Leads, there are plenty of thoughts on them that may cover your queries

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It sounds good as a Running Rig. The things I would do if possible is to:

A) have a flat sided Lead, to grip the lake bed better if possible.

 

B) use a larger lead to hold down to the lake bed.

 

Have a look at the threads Running vs Fixed Leads, there are plenty of thoughts on them that may cover your queries

 

cheers mate

 

so my hooklengths and hairs are ok lengths? as thats something im never sure of. i seem to get a lot of bites as if the fish are mouthing the bait and ejecting them. ive only ever had one screaming run and that was last weekend

 

i have tried using a 2oz pear shaped lead but it just tends to get sucked into the bottom as its really silty. so you reckon giving a flat sided lead a go?

 

i do feel really comfortable casting a 1 oz lead and it makes the distance i need to fish at.

 

so what are the advantages to using a heavier lead?

 

im also not sure if i should be fishing a slack or tight line with the above set up? my thinking is tight line equals better bite indication as the fish does not need to move the slack but it may move the lead? confused

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if you use a heavier lead the lead will stay ontop the bottom of the lake bed and this will be better when a fish picks up[ the bait and moves because it will give you better indication. you said erlier that you never get screaming runs, if you do i would opt for a bolt rig. without complicating things with clips you can use a inline. you would set up your rig exactly as you have said but the but the swivel would push inside the lead and fix it on. this will make the fish bolt when it picks up the rig.

as for the rejected takes, with the rig tube you are using you could put some on the shank of the hook and create a smooth small bend of about 45 degrees and this will help the hook flip over in the carps mouth and hopefull result in more fish on the mat :D

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I, me personally have found with a Running Lead fish lines as slack as possible.

 

If you are fishing over silt try to find out what weight lead just sinks into it, you can then get away with a lighter lead than normal.

 

With Semi Fixed Rigs you fish a tight line to increase the Bolt effect, but if a fish just mouthes the bait and gets away with it, you may get no indication whatsoever, yet a Running Lead will give a bleep or other indication.

 

As for Rigs also have a look at Complicated Rigs, we had many thoughts on Leads, Rigs, and hooking arrangements.

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cheers guys, i feel a bit more confident with that rig now.

 

i was tending to always fish quite a tight line so i will give the slack line approach a go.

 

i found that a 2oz pear lead was just sticking in the silt - maybe a flat one would be better as larger surface area.

 

i do use shrink tube on shank of hook and have started playing around in a small bend up away from the hook point.

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My running rig is similar, standard 9 inch hooklink (usually) with hook size and bait to suit as you say. i then have a swivel then a buffer bead covering then the lead free running which is a flat pear from MFC in 2oz or 2.5oz. The way i have found to get away with such a light lead is to use a fluro leader. I would say that the line pulls through the eye on the lead with less force with the fluro leader. Again as Nick says, fished slack.

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My running rig is similar, standard 9 inch hooklink (usually) with hook size and bait to suit as you say. i then have a swivel then a buffer bead covering then the lead free running which is a flat pear from MFC in 2oz or 2.5oz. The way i have found to get away with such a light lead is to use a fluro leader. I would say that the line pulls through the eye on the lead with less force with the fluro leader. Again as Nick says, fished slack.

 

what do you mean by leader?

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cheers guys, i feel a bit more confident with that rig now.

 

i was tending to always fish quite a tight line so i will give the slack line approach a go.

 

i found that a 2oz pear lead was just sticking in the silt - maybe a flat one would be better as larger surface area.

 

 

I have found that a Trilobe Lead in 1.5 - 2oz can actually behave like a lot heavier lead as it rests on the flat side.

Also because of its shape, if fishing over heavy silt it doesn't dive in so deeply. They can be a bit of a sod to cast though, because their shape means they tend to go a little awry at times, especially in a strong wind.

 

The fluorocarbon leader offers less resistance than a Monofilament mainline and also pins it down against the lake bed as fluoro is heavier than mono.

 

A leader, a length of (stronger) line used for the purpose of preventing crack-offs, rubbing against snags or to sink the last few metres of line behind the lead.

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