bones46

I've never caught one but a mate did a few years ago. It was about 15lbs and white as a ghost- at 3 am it looked to me like a giant white tadpole and I was glad when it went back in the water I could never deliberately fish for them, but good luck to those that do

It looks like a bit of experimentation is in order. Ace!!

Thanks Nick. I've got some Amnesia (can't remember where I put it, ho ho) but it's years old so will give it a vigourous testing. I'm using ESP bristle filament 25lb for the hooklink, so may even use that for the boom as well.

Thanks Nige- very helpful. So the boom as stiff as the hooklink and maybe a couple of inches longer? I know it's seen as primarily a pop up rig, but a bottom bait should also work given the difficulty in ejecting the bait and the likelihood of pricking the fish when it blows it out- would you agree? In fact, a heavy bottom bait might be even more difficult to spit out without it pricking? I'm editing and thinking aloud here

I've done a search and can't find an answer to this- would appreciate any advice..... I like to understand what I use and why (or if) it does what its supposed to and although I understand the principle of the hinged stiff rig and the materials used to make the hooklink, I'm not sure what the "boom" is supposed to do and therefore, what material should be used and how long / short / varied it should be. I assume it's purpose is to push the rig away from the lead.........thoughts please......

I'd be inclined to keep this as simple as you possible can. Lead at one end with a rubber sleeve over the knot to protect it during the fight. Two rubber "chod beads" with the hooklink in between- the bead nearest the hook is solely to stop the hook point from hitting the lead, so needs to be a couple of inches away from the lead, longer than the hooklink is. The top bead set at around the depth of weed etc. but you might need to experiment with this. Putty on the barrel of the hooklink swivel enough to pull the bait down Fish it with the line "straight" but not so tight that it lifts the hooklink and Bob's yer Aunties live in lover. I use a pva nugget covering the point of the hook, only so I can be sure the hook's not picked up any weed on its way down

Back in the day when tubing was all the rage I did a few "tank tests" and saw repeatedly that the tubing lifted up when bubbles of air were trapped inside, and it wasn't as "anti tangle" as it was made out to be either. I occassionally use non leadcore (I hate leadcore more than I hate facism) leaders such as Avid or the Solar stuff but I use fluoro most of the time now and think (hope) that that's enough. There is a theory that tubing stops scales being lifted during the fight. To my mind, this is as valid a theory as COG leads, rigs that reset themselves and the tooth fairy. The most effective anti tangle rigs are stiff or at least mono hooklinks and I would always consider mono for a long chuck. I'm fishing a couple of venues which require a maximum 50 yard cast and use supple hooklinks 90% of the time (just got some Avid Pindown which looks brilliant) and always use a pva nugget, and / or a three bait stringer or small pva bag- I can't remember the last time I had a hook length tangle.

I use a fair bit of Korda stuff- no hooks though Never used N trap but might give it a go one day. I only use two or three different hook link materials and I'm happy with them. Korda seem to get a lot of flak- partly based on a dislike of their image and partly because some of the gear is pony and trap. I do like lime green though

Trakker Armolife for me. Reliable, easy to use, portable and cheap. If you need a double burner, get two. There's loads of discussion on here about gas v petrol etc, but I fish over night throughout the winter and have never had a problem. Before this I used Coleman stoves- nothing but bother and I often ended up covered in more petrol than someone who'd upset Winnie Mandela

I use Solar chod beads that grip the line but move very easily under pressure. The bottom bead will always move tight against the lead during the fight- probably very quickly. The lead will inevitably touch the fishs "snout" but won't bash on it because it's too close to the hook. It's probably no greater risk of damage than what they get from "rooting" anyway. I don't see a problem at all. The only way of making sure the bead doesn't move is to fix it, and that brings a whole new set of issues, not least a lead dangling underneath the fish. As for fishing tight lines with it, if I knew the line was buried in silt and therefore not in mid water I'd be happy, but otherwise as I said earlier, I'd fish it as direct to the lead as possible - "straight" but not tight. I always fish them "naked"- that is, without a heavy leader especially lead core. Lead core is horrible stuff and should only be used to tie up the neighbours dog when it barks too much. I'm admitting nothing.

Love it! I have PB,s with Grebe, Coot and Swan. A fish or two would be handy. Ian Thankfully I've only ever hooked one (feathered) bird- a coot which detached itself soon after. Since joining the syndicate I've become brilliant at landing a boilie within a foot of a rooting swan- that seems to do the trick

No, I'm pretty sure "camp actors" does it nicely

I enjoyed Passion for Angling but I can't help but find Chris Yates a bit..."grating" I can't put my finger on it, but it's the same feeling I get when I read almost anything Tim Paisley writes. I acknowledge without reservation the achievements of both anglers, but they remind me of a couple of camp actors. It's probably just me (it often is). Darling.

If the water is gin clear, 70% covered in weed and populated by every diving bird in Yorkshire, it sounds like the syndicate I'm in! Best of luck with it mate

In my humble opinion and having used the rig a fair bit and asked myself the same questions- The lower bead should be far enough away from the lead to stop the hook touching it and risk blunting I try and fish the top bead at the depth of any weed, or if its free of "vertical" weed, maybe 1 - 2 feet apart I try and fish the line "straight" by which I mean not tight, but not slack enough that its as direct to the bait as possible. I like the line as close to the bottom as possible, and fish it "naked" rather than with a leader. I think a chod fished on a tight line risks the bait hanging in the water and looks wrong, particularly at shortish range I'm sure there are occasions when a fish swims towards me with the bait, but I'm not worried about losing any sensitivity or indication, particularly if the line is "straight" as I described. There's a lot on this forum from some good anglers about line movement in water- it moves very differently to how it would in the air. I reserve the right to be totally wrong, but it's how I do it and I'm very confident with it. What sort of venue are you fishing? I'd be interested to know how you get on

Gorgeous car, but how do you get it in that garage?

Try the old pike fishing trick- attach your line to a balloon with a paper clip, let it drift out to where you want it, then give it a sharp tug and the balloon should come off. Obviously it depends on the wind being in the right direction and it's a good idea to collect the balloons afterwards if you can, but I've used it in the past

Jel-E-Wyre for me- I hardly use anything else for hooklinks. Bit pricey though- £14!!