noknot

Use your brain- There is no substitute for ingenuity It is very easy with a bit of thought, why does everybody want to use the chod anyway- fashion???? Why would you need leadcore for a Chod anyway? Surely the rig would move on mono much easier

Very wise words! Keep it simple, less to go wrong and build your confidence up, on harder waters start the same as you can always "tweak" the rig a little if need be latter

Inline is OK but I prefer a a flat swivel lead myself and I fish a rubber float stop with a bead up the line" old style " bolt rig, very effective as no resistance on the take until they hit the stop!=Screamer

No lead clip needed, just a freerunning lead, I try to use the lightest lead for the distance fished and the bottom make up, hope this helps, but give it a go.......

Give it a go, trust me, you will catch more than on leadcore and it's safer! I use it for 99% of my fishing and so do a lot of other guys

Hi Chris, A semi slack line fished with mono strait through with a a running lead and light Indicators, Sorted

Try this: A stiff 5" fluro hook link to a knotless knot, with shrink tube on the hook( make sure the tube is cut off at an angle in a direct line to the hook point) and is only fixed opposite the point on the shank, and for the swivel, I do a double overhand knot passing the swivel though the loops twice to form the loop, this nails them every time and you will land 99% Tip: You can prepare shrink tube at home, just by tying a normal hook as a pattern, and then shape the tube over steam: 1 easier and the plastic will set, and 2 you can reuse with no worry about over heating your rig

I must agree Keith, as I was a was a architectural model maker for 15 years, so working with detail and lines and drawings, also AutoCAD makes me fussy about my rigs. Having said that I only really use two types as I am confident in them and have had many Carp on them, they look simple, but the mechanics are in place and very effective, my general approach is quite methodical but not fixed, and yes Nick I think over a period of time it could become "natural" or second nature which could be seen as watercraft.

I like that quote Yeah I can imagine Keith sitting there in the sun with his feet up, a glass of red wine and the New ATT V2 goes into vibrate mode, Mmmmmmm A hard life, but it has to be done I don't know whether I can put up with it for much longer. I'm sure you can keith and good luck with it Cheer's!

I like that quote Yeah I can imagine Keith sitting there in the sun with his feet up, a glass of red wine and the New ATT V2 goes into vibrate mode, Mmmmmmm A hard life, but it has to be done

Hi Shabar, To be honest I would just use a heavy lead! And cast around as much of the lake as you can to find some spots" hard or clear" when it's not busy As these have been cleared by feeding fish, find these and they will produce Carp, and these areas will be there waiting to be found and any good rig will work on theses areas, Chod rigs will work "over" silt, so will lighter leads and longer hooklinks( be carefull, not too long if baiting with a particle, as you could be biten off) Another method I use in silt is after casting, put tension from the rod tip until you feel the lead pull free, this will bring the lead onto the silt and not deep in it(light lead) again, give it a go

same here Jez, no tubing or leader but a lead and beads! they don't get much money from me

Hi steve, I like to think that the "hook arrangement" is responsable for hooking Carp and fished with a running lead to me is the most sensitive set up by far, and I tend to use shorter stiffish hooklenths as any movement of the bait will give an indication at the rod end"beep"! I have noticed recently while fishing that I get a few single beeps which develope into a run, but with a fixed lead there will be no indication until the hooklengh is extended and the lead is moved

I agree Keith, I do not strike as they are 99.9% Nailed! I just bend into the fish and enjoy Big or Tip lake Keith?

The Original Gardner Dacron was black, suple and strong, Don't know if you can still buy it? It was a few years ago that I used it

Braid for mainline is a different animal to hooklenth braid, and as so should NEVER be used for hooklenths! As it works like a serated knife! Years back we used Dacron with no damage caused, then when silkworm first came out, I found it superb! Used it in 25lbs BS as it was"flat" rather than round(which will cut) in smaller diameters! Having said this I have reverted back to "bolt rigs" 80's style running lead with a float stop up the line set up and flouro hooklinks(semi stiff) for 99% of my fishing, and is awsome! Two beeps, then a single toner! In 25 year of Carp angling I can say I have never "ripped up" a Carp! Maybe Due to useing ballenced Tackle and the correct tools for the job in hand, ie: Not useing 3.5lbs TC in the margins but a 1.25lbs TC, you can still land big Carp on these and apply the same presure if need be, and also enjoy a real fight from a Carp

"I'd be worried with a Shot on the Line to be honest; Not for the chance of it locking up the lead, or the shot falling off, but for the worry that squeezing a shot on the line may damage and pinch the line creating a weakspot. My view is that it is far better to use those Rubber "float" stops that are available. If you are worried about them sliding then 2 together tends to stop the problem" I agree with you Nic, thats how I set my leads up: Hooklink>>swivel>>bead>>lead(size depending on the bottom type)>>bead>>rubber float stop. Simple and effective with no worries about the stop, as after a fish the stop has normally been moved 2ft up the line by the take! Never needed to use two stops, as you can buy different sizes to suit your line Dia. I do not use tube, leadcore or leader. But as this set up is so simple it looks great in the water.

Yes very true! All down to the swivel I think!

I use one that you probably dont know of, Mumu Jiuri fron Japan 0.4mm great stuff for 5" links to a knotless knot, a clear Fluro and has never let me down

Tip! Never use a shot on the line or rig! Why? Coz it can crimp and cause a flat spot that WILL weaken the line or link! Better to use 0.5mm silicone on the line or link, then add your shot, with plyers if you wish, as this will not crimp and is easialy changable