courtz

i use drennan double strength for my zigs and it seems to work fine. before that i was using ultima which is pretty identical to triline in colour and still caught alot. i don't usually use flourocarbon as it is heavier than normall mono and may pull the bait downwards. courtz

i put the lead in the bag, sliding the two holding beads up the leader with the hooklength. i then fill up the bag and tie it off. once ive trimmed down the dag i slide the two beads and hhoklength bach to the bag knot, before nicking the hook in the side of the bag. tight lines courtz

http://www.carp.com/forum/t18080/sad1b6e71e0e6585f3c531b40757cb141.html

The running rig is quite similar to the bolt rig, as to using hooklength, bait and a leader such as leadcore. The difference is that when a fish takes the bait it feels very little resistance, as the mainline and leadcore runs through a low friction ring attached to the weight. This set up is becoming more and more popular these days, as it goes against the rigs the majority of anglers use. It can help get those extra bites from rig shy carp. A buffer bead is attached on the mainline side of the swivel, to protect the knot, and allow the leader to run through the ring unaffected. (image and text from my website) the lead is attatched to the run ring with a snap link covered with some thick silicon tubing

i dont like their boilies, but the hooklink seems pretty good

it could be that the hooklengths are too long or the leader is too short. some baits can cause the line to twist on the retreive, but im no expert tight lines courtz

leaders help prevent the hooklink catching on the main line, alternatively less supple monos such as flourocarbon will stand less chance of tangling.

do you use a leader such as rig tubing or leadcore courtz

i use a five turn grinner for the swivel knot, as it suggests on the info booklet with it. i think you have to get specimen carp hooks for it to fit through, if you arent already using. esp recommend the ESP stif rigger for ghost flourocarbon. tight lines courtz

i've never had to use it. but i do see the logic of it slowing down the hookbait, minimising the chance of a tangle a word of advice if you want it then just go to an industrial estate and ask a company for some. i got a box full on work experience for nothing companies are having a laugh selling it

heres one i did http://www.carp.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=17502&highlight=zig+rig and i think coops_northants put a few good threads up tight lines courtz

i use that set up when there's a bit of weed about, but when it's a clear bottom i put the lead straight onto the line. courtz

it's a good method from mick for canging swivels. But if you dont use leadcore then a loop should work with coated brai, as it is pretty tough, i place a pen through the loop first and then steam it down whilst pulling it tight. for the hoook aligner you cut off a small length of silicon tubing, and place it on the har and hook shank between the bait and knotless knot. When i use coated braid i simply strip off the last 8cm, then tie my loop in the uncoated section, before tying my knotless knot. i leave about 1 inch between the hook eye, and the coated section i haven't stripped. This provide the necessary hinge, which improves hooking properties. but use it with the coating removed on the knotless knot. if you don't understand anything else then feel free to ask. tight lines courtz

always find time to come on here in the morning whilst eating breakfast

the normal one tight lines courtz

i use braid: ESP sinklink flourocarbon: korda iq mono for surface fishing and 'the other rig' : drennan double strength tight lines courtz

you can attatch them like a normal bottom bait if you wish, on a knotless knot rig, but they may lose bouyancy as to being punctured. another way of attatching them is by using a d-rig.you tie a knotless knot rig, and make a hair abou 2-inches long without a loop. you then thread on a rig ring, pas the hair back through the eye of a hook and blob it down with a lighter. you then tie on the bait to the rig, using dental floss or weak line, ie 4lbs. maybe someone with more knowledge of d rigs can explain them better, as i rarely use them. i am more confident in just using a standard hair rig for mounting them, as i don't leave baits on for more than 2 hours, and nash say their pop ups don't loose bouyancy due to puncturing. tight lines courtz

hope this helps any shock leader material will be fine, as a little scale, 10lbs of line per 1oz of lead. eg 4oz lead = 40lb shockleader.

mine are tutti frutti pop-up boilies

the advantages of a chod rig are to let the lead bury into debris on the lake bed, with your bait sat clear.

i was never trying to get into an argument in the first place i was just helping out another angler on a question he asked IT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR ISN'T IT!!! i'm going to act my age and end the argument now i just hope fosco has the maturity to do the same tight lines courtz

i don't use books or dvd's, they're a rip off. got the idea of zigs from this forum why should i use simpler tactics, when i can just adapt the set ups i already use, by using a longer hooklength? no point in spending extra extra money, when i've already got kit fine if not better for the job needed. i'm pretty sure 1lb line would break on the cast when casting 60yds with a 2oz lead. tight lines courtz

if you're fishing in silt you can tie white wool from the lead, up to where the leader attctches to your mainline. the silt will stain the submerged wool

just with the use of anti-tangle, safety rigs which will eject the leads pop-ups which are more bouyant low diameter hooklength materials such as double strength ans silkshock and also the adaption of a running zig rig. in old books i've seen zigs with 2 ssgs crimped onto the line for weight

it's been out for ages, just been modified over the years