Gazlaaar

I know this may spark off some controversy/debate but its an attempt to show my thinking in making leadcore slightly safer to use This is just for use for Helicopter/Rotary Rigs, incorporating leaders. Firstly we come to the personal decision of whether its better to dump the lead, leaving the hooklink and leader tethered to the fish, or, using the weight of the lead to pull the leader free of the hooklink, just leaving the fish with the hook link to get rid of.I favour the latter, to my thinking, surely the quicker a fish can get rid of the leader the better. With this in mind I set about trying to create a safe a leader as possible, but this presented its own problems. A lot of the kits available now don't work as effectively as you think. Shrink and Silicone Tube aren't fixed and can both be slid up the leader with the bead connected. Yes we are told to moisten the bead before its slid into place but don't forget the leadcore/leader also soaks up moisture making it more slippery. One of the best kits out there is the Korda kit, because the bead is split, it has a much better chance of slipping off, freeing the hooklink, but the kit can still slip up the leader. Which has lead me to trying to create something that doesn't slip at all, leaving the bead as the only movable point.This is where I came up with this idea, tying a 4 turn barrel knot using the leadcore/leader itself. This can not move, which puts all of the pressure on to the bead. After tying the knot I shrink a piece of heat shrink tube over the top to facilitate the bead coming off. The lead inner has been stripped out of this bottom section of leadcore to the top of the knot. This is the presentation in its entirety All I can say, before you comment, try it, and try the lead theory I have mentioned, try getting rid of the leader without the lead, then try getting rid of the leader with the lead and you'll see how much better it is. To my thinking, the fish being able to get rid of the entire leader has to be better than towing it around. Another point to make, these beads have a taper, with the larger hole facing away from the lead. This helps the bead to slip over the knot connecting the mainline. I have also found, the heavier the lead the better, and instead of using a ring swivel which has been problematic I would suggest using a big eye swivel, with the larger eye pushed over the leader.Plus I have adopted using barbless hooks with this particular presentation, on a just in case basis and my mainline is strong, 18lb to be exact. The main reason for using Leadcore lately is because of its stiffness, Leadcore does not follow all of the contours of the lake bed as once believed, this is due to the Lead Inner, which is specifically why I am using leadcore.Other softer, lead free versions do follow the contours, and my pool is littered with very sharp debris. The leadcore predominantly lies on top of the debris without coming into contact with many of the razor sharp edges where a softer more supple leader would drape over these edges.I would like to make it clear, that leadcore wasn't my first choice, but it is the better of two evils in my situation.It goes without saying that you should check the condition of your leader and mainline before each cast and make sure everything works just how it should. Accidents happen, crack off's, loosing fish during the fight, but to my thinking, I have made this presentation as safe as possible, using the lead to pull the leader free. As you see a lot of thought and testing has gone into this rig and I know it may spark off some debate, but I feel perfectly justified in my decision for using it.

Agreed, the concept of the rig is a great one, I too ,so far, have a 100% record, take to banked fish. There are so many aspects as to why I like this rig I have merely taken the idea and made it my own, and im happy with the results it gives me

When you steam the rig, both sides of the loop stick together making a stiffer d section than a single length would.

I really do believe the curve has contributed massively to the success of the chod/hinged rig, but I wanted a rig that presented a bait closer to the bottom, but still retained the same characteristics of a ready cocked rig. This rig fits the bill, once autumn is in full swing again I shall probably swap over to the hinged rig for the winter until next spring.

The stiffness of the bristle filament does the job for the chod/hinged rig,

I believe so Phil, I think its a major contributing factor as pop up rigs are what I like to call ready cocked, look at the curve on a chod, a fish can approach that rig from any direction and you stand a good chance of the bottom lip touching the curve and swinging the hook round into position. My tube, theoretically does the same job, id also like to add, sometimes I use a small pva bag of crumb attached to the hook, I have found without the tubing the coated hooklink can straighten out, the tubing alleviates this problem also.

Actually nige, your recommendation of the sssp looks a good plan, I might have a look at that, I still feel the tubing is an essential part of my rig though for turning capabilities

Nige, I have tried with many a pattern of hook, but ive found, for me, this set up acts like a mini chod or hinged stiff rig, with the tube helping turning the hook. I did nearly use a curved shanked hook but I prefer the sr's, I suppose its just a confidence thing I understand and appreciate your input though, thanks

Its to give me the angle I want, ive tried silicone but it doesn't sit right for me. I find rigs a very personal thing and this is just my interpretation of it.

Part 2 Step seven Now steam the whole rig, using two gate latch needles, one through the Micro Ring Swivel on the hook and the other in the loop at the lead end of the hooklink. Steam carefully and impart the bend you require in the shrink tube. Step eight Place a piece of Super Floss through the Micro Ring Swivel and pull your pop up down and over the barrel of the swivel. Step nine Tie 4 simple granny knots at the top of the pop up, trim with two small tag ends and heat using a lighter, moisten your finger and flatten the Floss, you won't need a boilie stop. Step ten Use a PVA Nugget around the hook, this will stop the hook becoming tangled and help set the rig up in the proper position once its settled on to the lake bed. This rig can be used with a multitude of lead set ups, if you use an inline lead make sure you use a Ring Swivel, this will help the whole rig to settle nicely on the bottom. I have used high attract, bright pop ups on this rig, but I have found it better using matching pop ups, to your loose feed. Its not a hard rig to tie once you have done a few. This is how the rig sits, I like how the rig constantly resets itself ready for the next investigation. My components Fox size 5 SR's ESP Heat Shrink Tube 25lb Kryston Dark Mantis Fox Micro Ring/Bait Swivels Fox Kwik Change Weights ESP Super Floss There we have it, my interpretation of the Multi Rig

Part 1 This is my step by step guide to tying the Multi Rig, this is my interpretation of the now popular rig and I thought I would take you through the components I use and show you how I construct mine. I have literally tied hundreds of these, and think I can show the best and easiest way to tie it up. Step one Take a 15 inch length of coated braid, tie a 2 inch loop at one end and a loop that just about slides over the bend of the hook at the other end. Just two simple over hand loops, you'll find you can move the knots up and down the length of the coated hooklink relatively easy before you tighten and bed them down. Step two Strip back about 10mm of coating under the knot of the hook end, I have just found it easier to do this now rather than later. Step three Take a length of Super Floss, push it through the loop and push both tag ends through the eye of the hook. You'll find this a lot easier than just trying to push the loop itself through the eye. Step four Now place on the Micro Ring Swivel and pass the loop over the hook, I usually set the top of the loop in line with the barb of the hook. Step five Slide on a piece of Heat Shrink Tube, just enough to cover the eye of the hook and the knot that's formed the loop. Step six Now place on the Kwik Change Weight,

Not too many pieces move me, but this piece did, this morning on the way back home from Fosters, so much so I stopped the car and just listened. Thankfully I have found it on youtube, I know classical music isn't everyones cup of tea, but this music is stunning and staggering imagery to match. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ibwxzxER_pY

Didn't Ian, once describe her as Hitler with boobs lol obviously not that politely put

Ive just had a brain wave, instead of using raw eggs, I could use powdered egg, the only difference being the fat content, but I could use liquid glucose instead of water. Easy to make yourself, I usually do 2 parts sugar 1 part water, but that makes to thick a solution, I have made 1 part water to 1 part sugar, that pretty much has the same consistency of water, my thinking, the yeast will have sugar to feed on, all the way through the bait.

All very interesting, Turnip and Mooseman,I shall take a look, my bait are already catching me fish, so they are working, but due to the short sessions I do I think elevating the break down process may well help, but, and its a big but, I shall take a look at the enzymes involved, Thanks again

Im not even sure if an active yeast is the way to go, looking at the enzymes involved, (a sudden morality check) I would much rather use substances that at least utilise some of the same enzymes carp use themselves. So im still looking, whats your thinking behind salt, I am waiting on a small bag of MSG turning up as it goes,

Dried Active Yeast at the moment, although I feel I may get a better response with brewers yeast, im not even sure if yeast is the way forward, I am about to fish with baits soaked in tiger milk tonight, that had been left in a bucket in the sun for a few days, my thinking, these don't necessarily need an elevated heat level to ferment

I have had a pot of 15, 16mm baits in a pot all night long, locked with the lid sealed. The were soaked in activated yeast last night for a couple of hours and then put straight into a spare pop up pot. There seems to be white spots appearing on the surface of the baits. I have now divided the baits into two pots now, one pot just sealed and left at room temperature, and the other I have placed on to a heated water bottle with a towel over the top to try and lock in some heat. Hopefully ill see some difference by tomorrow There are definite white spots appearing though

You can cook at lower temperatures in pressure cookers, as the pressure aids cooking equilibrium,

I am guessing, if the enzymes were kept at an optimum heat, they would simply break the baits down into a mush. Which would be no good for sale purposes, I would of thought the company would only take the fermentation process so far and then stop it by freezing the bait. Enzymes aren't denatured by freezing, they are just dormant, and can be reactivated once brought up to temperature again, starting the process once again. The thinking is, if a carp doesn't need to use its energy digesting then it can eat more of a substance, hence digesting a bait ourselves. Thats my knowledge, not very scientific I know

Just to add It would certainly explain the sticky substance on the exterior of the baits, it would explain why the bait is only available in frozen form, and it would explain the softness of the bait. Plus its the only way I can think of producing a boilie like this in a large quantity for the masses. What do you think fellas?

Nick, Turnip, Phil, Ross, Carpmachine and everyone else, I thank you for you contributions In hindsight, Its looking like its just to hard to keep enzymes active in a normal fishing situation. I now would call into question the validity of some brands who have claimed to of harnessed such enzymes, unless of course they have stored them into some sort of temperature controlled environment (flask). Let the enzymes do there stuff before its starts to affect the outer shell of a bait and then quickly bought down the temperature and frozen. Which is what I suspect Nash have done. Just from a common sense way of thinking, I would think the baits are part heated, leaving the paste inside fir the enzymes to feed up on. The enzymes are applied once the baits are cooled enough, and kept in a temperature controlled environment until surface evidence is prevalent, then they are quickly frozen, so the enzymes lay dormant. At this stage the baits be part digested already, I would make one suggestion though, if you are using the Key, try putting a handful into and already warm flask, no where near boiling point though. About 40 degrees, this may reactivate the enzymes further, its something I am going to try

Turnip, I am slightly leaning towards including the enzyme after cooking, as heating is just too problematic, as heat denatures the enzymes at a very low heat. Ross, I shall take a look, thank you

Phil thanks for that, I shall have a look when I have a little more time, certainly looks interesting, from what ive seen

There are 3 types of Enzymes Metabolic Enzymes – These enzymes are primarily in charge of energy production in the body. They also help to detox the body on a cellular level and are even help our sensory system respond appropriately. They are responsible for cellular activity on every level. Digestive Enzymes – Digestive enzymes benefits include assisting the body break down and assimilate food into nutrients. The body uses different types of enzymes to digest fats, proteins and carbohydrates for instance. Food Enzymes which primarily come from plants. Our body does not make these enzymes, but they are contained in the food we are eating so our body can break down the food. Enzymes are destroyed by heat, therefore, this is why it is important to incorporate fresh raw fruit and vegetables into your daily diet; and essential oils This is where we just concentrate on one particular type of Enzyme, The Digestive Enzymes Digestive enzymes are enzymes that break down polymeric macromolecules into their smaller building blocks, in order to facilitate their absorption by the body. Digestive enzymes are found in the digestive tracts of animals (including humans) and in the traps of carnivorous plants, where they aid in thedigestion of food, as well as inside cells, especially in their lysosomes, where they function to maintain cellular survival. Digestive enzymes are diverse and are found in the saliva secreted by the salivary glands, in the stomach secreted by cells lining the stomach, in the pancreatic juice secreted by pancreatic exocrine cells, and in the intestinal (small and large) secretions, or as part of the lining of the gastrointestinal tract.Digestive enzymes are classified based on their target substrates:proteases and peptidases split proteins into small peptides and amino acids.lipases split fat into three fatty acids and aglycerol molecule.amylases split carbohydrates such asstarch and sugars into simple sugars such as glucose.nucleases split nucleic acids intonucleotides.In the human digestive system, the main sites of digestion are the oral cavity, the stomach, and the small intestine. Digestive enzymes are secreted by different exocrine glands including: Salivary glands Secretory cells in the stomach Secretory cells in the pancreas Secretory glands in the small intestine Enzymes Enzymes are not living things. They are just special proteins that can break large molecules into small molecules. Different types of enzymes can break down different nutrients: Carbohydrase or amylase enzymes break down starch into sugar Protease enzymes break down proteins into amino acids Lipase enzymes break down fats into fatty acids and glycerol. Carbohydrase is an enzyme that catalyzes the breakdown of carbohydrates into simple sugars. Carbohydrases are produced in the pancreas but act in the stomach breaking down carbohydrates, hence the name. A protease (also called peptidase orproteinase) is any enzyme that performsproteolysis, that is, begins protein catabolismby hydrolysis of the peptide bonds that linkamino acids together in a polypeptide chain. Proteases have evolved multiple times, and different classes of protease can perform the same reaction by completely differentcatalytic mechanisms. Proteases can be found in animals, plants, bacteria, archaeaand viruses. A lipase is an enzyme that catalyzes thehydrolysis of fats (lipids). Lipases are a subclass of the esterases.Lipases perform essential roles in thedigestion, transport and processing of dietary lipids (e.g. triglycerides, fats, oils) in most, if not all, living organisms. Genes encoding lipases are even present in certain viruses Temperature and enzymes As the temperature increases, so does the rate of reaction. But very high temperatures denature enzymes. Enzyme activity gradually increases with temperature until around 37ºC. Then, as the temperature continues to rise, the rate of reaction falls rapidly, as heat energy denatures the enzyme. Effects of pH Enzymes are affected by changes in pH. The most favorable pH value - the point where the enzyme is most active - is known as the optimum pH. Extremely high or low pH values generally result in complete loss of activity for most enzymes. pH is also a factor in the stability of enzymes. As with activity, for each enzyme there is also a region of pH optimal stability.The optimum pH value will vary greatly from one enzyme to another, as Table II shows: Lipase (pancreas)8.0 Lipase (stomach)4.0 - 5.0 Lipase (castor oil)4.7 Pepsin1.5 - 1.6 Trypsin7.8 - 8.7 Urease7.0 Invertase4.5 Maltase6.1 - 6.8 Amylase (pancreas)6.7 - 7.0 Amylase (malt)4.6 - 5.2 Catalase7.0 There, I hope it makes sense, as you can see, Enzymes are particulary problematic where heat and pH levels are concerned. This isn't my own work, but I have copied and pasted various abstracts, hopefully in order.