ianain

Oh yes you can - Can you look please nm

Why do you reply to your own post on another thread if you are genuine? Post 1 Post 2

Shreds it, I don't think it's supposed to

Sounds like a job for baits that you can strike out of, i.e. a bait that will stay on your hook for so long, but will come off with a good strike; paste baits and bread are good starters.

It's probably a powder from the coating treatment to stop it sticking.

Thanks guys

If it's a feel for the place kind of fishing, I'd suggest float fishing, keep whatever bait dripping in and see what happens. Maybe a mixture of hemp, sweetcorn or caster. Try bread (punched and flake), maize, large particles as bait. Have a second (maybe even a third) rod with variations on as suggested above.

Thanks guys, there are some good ideas there.

Does anyone have any bright ideas for storing silicon tube when bought in lengths, I keep getting it all tangled?

Beg to differ, but I would say your rig is not presented well unless you are fishing for birds Don't mean any offence by that ginge. http://www.carp.com/topic/13598-waterfowl/?hl=%2Bproblems+%2Bwith+%2Bbirds#entry151724 may help as well as NM's link above.

Just did a search "pop up swivel rig"; memory served Have a look and see if that rings any bells or gives you other ideas.

I've seen it described for pop-ups; you thread the pop-up using floss (or similar) all the way so that the swivel is inside the bait and tie it off. I've never used it so can't comment on how effective or otherwise it is. It maybe that the swivel puts a bit of extra weight on your bait can't recall where I saw it.

I think swivels are more of a convenience, they have a large hole so that the line can pass through easily. I think I'm right in saying that swivels primary use was for lure fishing where because the thing [lure] is designed to spin round, the swivel actually has a chance to work as intended; as Nick said above, the swivels probably don't spin anyway.

Swivels are or can be used float fishing, some use them change floats quickly and some use them to attach their hook-length to as a final dropper. Do a search on g for "float adaptors" and you'll see a vast array

Jimboo, in what way do you think that n-trap good for the fishing that you do and how is it better than suffix in those ways?

It all depends on how they are tied, both can be made un-safe and both can be safe.

I don't agree. Most of my fishing is with size 4s, regardless of bait. same as. I want a big bit of metal to nail'em, regardless the size of hookbait. Size 4's & 5's my favourites. Infact done 1 season using size 2's. They didnt get away;-) Yep each to their own. Am I safe in saying that you would generally use large baits (18mm+)? Bait size is a starting point; using a hook that is bigger or smaller than the bait then becomes choice or method. The other problem is that there is a big difference between the physical size of manufacturers hooks and the stated size, even within their own ranges.

You're right for a starting point, the hook size should match the bait. There are other factors though: the length of hair / hook link, how big the fishes mouths are and weed for starters. Perhaps a better way of thinking is that the hook size should be big enough to hook the fish taking into account how it will achieve that in relation the the bait used. If the hook needs to pull through the bait the wire diameter needs taking into account and so on. The old adage still applies: If the fish are there and feeding and you are not catching, you're doing something wrong. So change something be it hook length, hair length, bait size, hook size etc..

Swivels: barrel, snap links, quick change links Bait stops: where grass is not good enough - spaghetti, the coloured stops that look like corn etc., quick stops; Korum or Drennan with their pusher tool in various colours and sizes Baiting needles: Long, short, latching (and, as above, pusher tool for quick stops) Leads: or weights of various shapes sizes PVA: with funnel tubing - some use bags which have been improved recently so don't discount the idea if you have a bad time with it before Bait: tinned meat, maggots, particles, bread and maybe boilies (a complete minefield in and of itself) depending on where you are fishing; keep it simple location is still number one requirement Practice at home tying the rigs: A metaphorical one really but still needed

I would give bread a serious go. Try floating bread crust (providing there are not too many ducks around). You will be able to test this out by just throwing bits in and see what happens. Once they have a bit of confidence, you can then try to catch one.

As said above, make sure the fish are there first. Has anyone caught carp from there? Have you tried worms, maggots, bread, chick peas etc..? (See particles) Keep trying and something will work.

By Kevin Anderson based on the story and lyrics by Neil Peart from Rush and their most recent album. The story is of a young man who takes a chance to see what's out there instead of staying in the comfort and safety of his village. He wants to experience for himself the great cities and see what is real or legend; especially the Clockwork Angels from the title. If you like steam punk type fantasy adventures [think in terms of the film Brazil / Terry Gilliam or even the story in 2112], then this will be up your street. It's an easy read with nothing too complicated but a very enjoyable romp none-the-less. If you like Rush then the story is full of album and song titles with lyrics injected along the way although sometimes this can be off putting when the author wedges them in with a Caress of Steel verbatim

Thanks guys, back to tying on the bank

Been going through my rig board and had a few thoughts on the subject. I'm asking as I've only recently bought one (less than six months.) I have normally tied my rigs on the bank. I'm trying to improve my fishing hence looking at the way I fish, this forum has given me loads to take on board (sorry) and so I am gradually putting this stuff into action. Labelling: Does anyone label each rig with hook size etc. I put the line breaking strain down but didn't mention anything else as I thought I would remember Needless to say when looking at it, I can't tell what hook size it is without going through several packets of hooks to find the exact one. Although I use a hook to suit the circumstances, I need to know which to replace. If you do label – how do you label them up as I have stuck a small piece of sticker to the top of the pin with the line bs as there doesn't seem to be much room for much more extravagance. Renewing rigs: How long do you leave a rig in the box before replacing it? Although it is UV protected, the line is exposed and would dry out after time. (also see below:) Moisturising Knots: I wet my knots with saliva, does this a) Increase the chance of the hook rusting or b) Present problems once the saliva has dried out Because the mono or braid will absorb some of the moisture, it will dry out creating expansion and contraction on the knot. I do feel dumb asking this, but, I have had a couple of my whippings come lose, which may well have been me when tying them; I just don't know. Has anyone tried using oil (vegetable etc..)to wet their knots? I can't remember where I saw this. Also if using oil would it go off? How many: Do you tie one or more of each rig? Pre-baiting: Do you pre-tie baits to rigs? - And counter balance them at home? Variety: How many types of mono, braid etc.. do you use in your rig box? How many types and sizes of hook? Do you use a single rig box for particular things? e.g. one box for 15lb bs, one box for 130mm (5 inches) lengths etc.. I know there will be no singular answer to any of the questions, I would like to hear of your experiences. I've used the term 'rig' but mostly mean 'hook-length'.

That explains alot, many thanks hnv