nash_gadgeteer

Cheers, but I don't think one exists, nothing on the website..

Gents, I am after a Walthamstow 2&3 Map, that gives the names of the swims and any additional information, any info would be greatly received by PM.

I use a pole winder, and actually have a box of them tied up at different lengths that i can swop round quickly when used with a quick clip.. see link: http://ww.tackleup.com/preston-seat-box-accessories/preston-winder-boxes.html Just add the extra "W"

Could I ask a question about the "hand test"? I have seen the videos where various rigs are dragged over the heel of the palm to demonstrate how the hook will behave. It would seem to me that this only demonstrates what is happening when the line is being pulled i.e. when there is tension in the line. This will happen when the boilie is being sucked in or if the carp is backing away. If the carp is just mouthing the bait or is blowing it out, the feature demonstrated by the hand test is surely irrelevant? Ideally you want the point to turn over and prick the bottom lip of the fish, whether that is done using a taut hooklink or the carp blowing the bait out. So draging it across your palm and getting the hook towards the edge just before you pull it off the edge the hook cocks and pricks the palm on the edge... I very rarely loose any carp, cant remember the last, if i get a run its on, and well nailed in the centre of the bottom lip.. Results speak..

Me personally would change a few things, but not all at the same time: Firstly make the hooklink longer 8-10" to start with and see how you get on, because the lead may be getting plugged and the running part of the set up maybe not working as well as it should. Secondly change from a Fox SSBP to a Fox SSC as the beak point may be glancing off the carps lip, as the lips may be soft due to the make up of the lake bottom. Bait size is fine, and hair separation is fine, but you could play with this using extenda stops to make it just slightly longer. If you still fail more than you achieve, then it may be worth using a piece of silicone on the hook to put the hair coming off the point bend instead of the shank bend, this makes the point heavy and when you try it in your hand the hook turns ready to catch the bottom lip, this can be further improved by adding a small blob of tungsten putty approx 2" from the hook.. Hope that helps, if not drop me a PM...

You have a PM..

Not my sort of fishing, but you have got Willowcroft at Wisbech St Mary. Lots of info if you use the search facility on here: Here's one to start you off... http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50358

Our team just got back from Barston Lake, and had a right result.. Top peg was 125 taking over 1300lbs of fish in 48hrs, and i was in pegs 55 & 54 with my fishing partner and had 481lbs so get down there and catch a few yourself, PM me for details if required..

Seems like it.... Fishing Barston from this monday for 48hrs, and then Cromwell for 48hrs... We have the same problem in that, there are not many large lakes that can take 14 pairs for 48hrs exclusive use, so the ones on your circuit are the same.. Tight Lines for your event, hope pull a few lumps out, as the weed shouldn't be too bad...

What days are the social, as i am not fishing it but might be able to call in on the way up north.. Edit : Don't worry just seen it on the Cromwell website 29/3 - 1/4 !! We are on it from the 16/4...

Cromwell Lake, Newark: Fishing an event up there very soon, any useful info on the place would be greatly recieved... I know it has foreign fish in it, but thats where the event is being held... Please PM me whatever information you have

I would be thinking that you are connecting the loop up to a quick link... There are two ways to look at this, I have used coated braids like Fox Coretex which does the same but use it to some advantage and have sometimes stripped back approx 1cm near the loop to add a extra hinge. Or i sometimes use link loops and tie a standard blood knot or grinner knot. but test your hooklinks as some coated hooklinks slip with these knots, and use plenty of saliva to help the knot bed down. Hope that helps...

I use the Fox adjustable zig kit for the for fishing zigs in lake areas deeper than 9ft. Once the adjustable kit is set up as per the diagram on the back of the packet, i use a hooklink of between 2-3ft. On setting up after cast, I prefer to reel in to get contact with the lead, as you would when feeling the bottom with a marker float. Then put the rod on your rod rests and alarm, then pay out line 1ft at a time (two pieces of tape on you rod 12" apart work a treat) to set the depth. For Example: You are fishing a area of your venue that is 12ft deep. The float is 12"long and the hooklink is 2ft long, and you want to start at approx 3/4 of the depth so you are 3ft under the surface. Then with the setup above being 3ft long you will have to pay out 6ft of line so the bait is sitting 9ft above the bottom but 3ft down from the surface. I personally start at approx 3/4 depth and either pay out line or reel some in every 30mins to find what depth they are feeding at and then set that in your mind every time you cast out. This certainly makes it easer changing depths without retying a rig.. It might sound complicated but can be a awesome technique once mastered... x2 Top tips is to use a PVA nugget around the hook and hookbait to avoid tangling and hold the rig up whilst adjusting. And use a line floatant like Mucilin to help the hooklink line float better. Hope that helps.... Tight Lines http://www.foxint.com/catalogues-products.php?lang=e&product=2247&catalogue=1&section=1

I second that, the stuff is called "H2O" and works very well, you can screw this stuff up into a ball with lots of kinks in it, and with the help of a hook puller and a pair of scissors/forceps the hooklink straightens perfectly with just a bit of tension...

Has anybody got any good info on the Quarry Carp Lake on the Baden Hall complex, please PM me anything you have, any info would be greatly recieved..