levigsp
-
Posts
2,175 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
18
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Articles
Posts posted by levigsp
-
-
I've been using ESP ghost with stiff riggers tied to a "D" rig for at least 6 years and have found it to be the most efficient hooking rig (even for bottom baits) that I have ever used. For some reason especially for the bigger fish.
Kieth I have used the same set up effectively,however I have noticed that it does not work everywhere.
I have found the makeup of the bottom has a direct effect on how carp feed, this has a direct effect on how hooking rigs work,likewise the size of the fish has an effect as you already said.
A good example is my brother who went to France on holiday.
Whilst there he was shown the aggresive hair tied in floro, it worked brilliently,yet everywhere else he trys it it results in dropped runs.
Your thoughts?
-
Well i think all these knots have a place, i have used a modified blood knot for 30 years, if i lose fish its from hook-pulls(not often thankfully), generally i find the cheap lines might not like bloodknots but if your using strong/qaulity line(not braid or flourocarbon) the form of bloodknot i use is good enough to land my quarry, If you prepare properly, and have confidence in what catches you fish...why worry..tight lines chaps.
Strange that isn't it, I doubt that I have used a bloodknot for over 30 years in my general carp fishing. I started to discover stronger knots that were easier to tie back in the seventies and haven't used one since except for a brief spell when Terry invented the hinge rig. With the short length of bristle filament the blood knot was the only option but the thicknes and strength of the filament allowed it.
Im the same not used it for a lot of years.
When I started salmon fishing ithe twice through the eye blood was the first knot I tried,only to find the fly vanishing over the horizon every time I mistimed my cast and put the power on.
Simple polomar knot and another knot I do not know the name of stoped the problem.
I am a stickler for trying the breaking strain of all my gear from hooks,swivals,hook length,line etc etc.
I want to know that everytime I hook a fish regardless of size and place I will land it,unless the hook pulls.
And on that point I have had far less pulls since testing the strenth of the hooks
frank
-
I need to learn some more knots. The blood knot is the only one I can get to bed down nicely and my thinking is a well tied blood knot has got to be better than a badly tied grinner or palomar knot
Funnily enough you could be wrong. I did a lot of tests with the palomar knot and even tied quickly (it's never going to be the neatest knot) I found that the hook link broke at the knotless knot more often than at the palomar.
I agree with you totaly.
I do tests on all my lines with different knots, to hooks and swivals and nearly everytime find the polamar the strongest,but it does look loose at times.
Its a knot I use a lot of,apart from hook on which I use two different whiping knots.
-
I need to learn some more knots. The blood knot is the only one I can get to bed down nicely and my thinking is a well tied blood knot has got to be better than a badly tied grinner or palomar knot
Surely if you can bed a bloodknot down then you should be able to with the others,far easyer knots
-
oh dear
Im very supprized Nick never noticed the slip,knowing him
Cos I use a double granny knot tied with a special loop and pulled down tight dry
JOKING!Not noticed much recently, as Frank knows had other things on my mind
I nearly always use the Uni knot, mainline and braid or for loops the knot on the kryston packaging.
For some stupid reason I can't get my head round the Palomar knot
As they say when the cats away
seriously I use the polamar as much as posible with some lines.
However I always try different knots on each new batch of line.
-
oh dear
Im very supprized Nick never noticed the slip,knowing him
-
It does not matter what knots you use,so long as you have the safety word.
sorry wrong forum. -
Good afternoon.
I said I wished I fished the lakes you did.
I have fished lakes where the fish self hook,but a lot more where they dont.
Maybe its because a lot of my angling nowdays tends to be on huge gravel pits,I dont know?
However If I am fishing for soft mouths I will happely fish running rigs especialy if not used for some timeon the water in question.
If fishing hard mouths I always use bolt rigs and if need be I will play with the rigs/complicate them untill I get good pickups.
-
I agree with you moorsey on not needing anything on the line for running rigs,and that backleads etc only detract from the effectiveness of the setup.
However I wished with my whole heart I fished the lakes you do,not needing to strike
Most places I have fished with a running rig you do get some screemers,but on picking up unless very close nothing there.
At range realy have to strike hard.
A lot of anglers moved onto the fixed lead etc because it hooked fish for them without the need to strike, as they missed so many runs on running leads.
I very well remember the bad old days of sitting for days on end for runs only to mis them on the strike.
Changing to the hair rig did improve matters but not totaly,whilst the boltrig improved thing no end.
Only my opinion mind.
-
if you want to balance a bait get your pop-up pierce it with a baiting needle then take some lead wire from your leadcore and slide pieces into the bait until you achieved the right boyancy.
i find you want the bait on the deck, but with a little boyancy so the weight of the hook and link is taken away and hopefully not as noticable to the carp. Eaqually you can achieve any boyancy or presentation without the use of split shots etc
I am very puzzled by this
Three things to think about here,one is by inserting lead into the boilie you are in effect creating a poison bait,as already pointed out by iambun.
The second is the fact that if you drill a hole that the very flimsy wire will slide into,it will just as easerly slid out.
If the whole is tighter you qwill never get the wire in in the first place.
The third is this,to insert enough lead wire into a 14mm standard off the shelf popup and create a balanced bait you need a lot of wire.
The people doing this use thick lead solder wire and insert 2-3 pieces at a time
So unless you are useing 500lb bs leadcore the wire would be useless
. -
no mate it aint that rig you have a swivel both sides and a stiff hook link on both swivels then you put a flote stop a size 11 swivel then another flote stop then you thread the hook throught the swivel making sure it wont pull throught then a hook bead then a rig ring followed by another hook bead then a hair on the rig ring and a popo up i know what you mean but that is like a inline chod rig in a way i am strugelling on tying the line inbettween the lead .i always tie it too short or too long and it aint tight thanks any way
i wouldnt even bother trying to tie that, to many swivels and beads. i think its one of those rigs to make you buy more tackle.
If you could build in another ten swivels you probably wouldn't need any line at all. Problem solved. lol.
Add even more swivals and you wouldnt need the hook either,carp could simply tangle themselfs up in swivals and rubber etc.
-
What actualy killed the fish?
-
Practice with a big nail and piece of string or something abit bigger that a hook and line, you will soon get the hang of it, it is also alot quicker than useing a hook tyer, or am i just blowing my own trumpet
I can tie them with out it, but I still prefer a Hook Tyer to get the loops right.
I've seen John Wilson tie a size16 spade end behind his back
I would like to see John tie up a 26 behind his back
infact I would like to see him tie one without glasses -
Do you think they exist?
I suppose the classic example of this is the silt/chod rig. The thinking being that a bigger fishes eyes will be further from the ground when they're feeding, therefore the hookbait will be right in front of them, whereas smaller fish will have their eyes closer to the ground and not see it.
Discuss
Im sorry but if I read you right you surmise that a "chod" fishes the bait off the ground?
If this is your thought you are sadley wrong,the "chod" fishes the bait directly on the soft surface of silt,silk weed etc,whereas other rigs could pull the bait under the surface.
Big fish rigs do not exist,the way you can fish might be big fish selective.
-
okay a 30lb carp and a 35lb'r??
Both big in my book
would it be more likely catch the bigger of the two tho?
50/50, unless...............
Bigger fish tend to eat more, so the bigger, greedier fish would want to get to the bait 1st, so yes
so nothing to do with the 360/big fish rig then
Yes. The 360 is one of the most effective rigs out there. Big, older fish are often more wary, so a less effective rig may not catch either.
Failing that, i surrender. You can have this one
Bang on again, I couldnt agree more.
Big fish are wary and the 360 is a very effective rig,so it sorts them out.
-
goin to upset the apple cart now.....use the 360 and never had a problem even with smaller fish....mechanics are sound, just needs to be scaled to the size of fish with regards to end tackle
Yippe
at long last someone whos tried the rig and uses his brain to engage his mouth,rather than let all the magazines brain washing rule his thoughts.I have used the rig for a fair while now and have not had a problem,I even used it one day on a comersial whilst teaching someone how to fish.
Caught a large number of various sized carp,not one had fresh mouth dammage,but the hooks were scaled down.
-
One of the methods of using the paternoster in the 60/70s that was the for runner to the so called chod was basicaly Nicks drawing reversed.
The very short hook link was tied to a swival,this was threaded up the mainline,and a ring was tied to the mainline at its end,to this was attatched a length of weaker line tied to the lead,this was often quite a long length of line to fish the bait well away from the lead.
This was done for two reasons,one is that we wanted to seperate the hook and lead by some distance as we were starting to think along the lines of fish ditecting electrical currents between the lead and hook etc.
The second was the bait could not be dragged into the silt[nothing new you see]
& the idea was stolen from sea fishermen who have used it for hundreds of years
Used by sea anglers yes but not stolen from them,as the same could be said for the hair rig
-
One of the methods of using the paternoster in the 60/70s that was the for runner to the so called chod was basicaly Nicks drawing reversed.
The very short hook link was tied to a swival,this was threaded up the mainline,and a ring was tied to the mainline at its end,to this was attatched a length of weaker line tied to the lead,this was often quite a long length of line to fish the bait well away from the lead.
This was done for two reasons,one is that we wanted to seperate the hook and lead by some distance as we were starting to think along the lines of fish ditecting electrical currents between the lead and hook etc.
The second was the bait could not be dragged into the silt[nothing new you see]
-
I know I carry loads of different Hooklink materials, but seem to use 2 in particular for most of my fishing; Merlin or Snakebite. And no I don't read the mags
Fish with what you have confidence with
, but be aware that at some point in your fishing you will need to be different to other anglers or that the Carp may have learnt how to deal with your "usual", so always have something you can change or experiment with.That to me is the best answer so far,and if more people thought like that it would make my job on riggy waters far harder.
Yes we all know that tackle catches anglers,however it also catches fish.
You need to taylor your gear to where you fish,simple realy
Frank,
Just for you and how far I tailor my rigs to the lakebed.
This is from the lake today. The straight (ish) line 90 degrees to the base of the pic is actually a reed stem.
The lake was a bit murky, it is normally a brownish peaty hue, so this pic is not too clear, even if only taken from a metre away. The only thing that you can possibly make out is the red blob of a Hookbait. The Rig itself is toatlly camouflaged into the bottom.
Correction I can actually make out the lead!
You actualy got yourself out on the bank
Nick I new this without seeing the photo,how?well I know you are one of the few thinking anglers out there.
My point earlyer was I agreed with you on that at some point be prepaired to be different.
This cannot be done if you dont have the equipment to be different.
I know 100%
if anybody fishes an unfished water with a standard hair rig setup,then they will truely reap the rewards.However if you try the same setup on a heaverly fished water with big carp,then you will fail the majority of the time.
I fish some waters where the carp have seen everything,if you fish with any of the rigs you see in the mags/books/forums etc you will catch,but not regulary.
If you sit back and think, then use materials and setups you know the carp have not seen before you will catch on a regular basis.
In the past few years I have proved this time and time again.
-
I know I carry loads of different Hooklink materials, but seem to use 2 in particular for most of my fishing; Merlin or Snakebite. And no I don't read the mags
Fish with what you have confidence with
, but be aware that at some point in your fishing you will need to be different to other anglers or that the Carp may have learnt how to deal with your "usual", so always have something you can change or experiment with.That to me is the best answer so far,and if more people thought like that it would make my job on riggy waters far harder.
Yes we all know that tackle catches anglers,however it also catches fish.
You need to taylor your gear to where you fish,simple realy
-
A simple dab of spit on your knot works, or you can use Lypsil which some people do to avoid putting their mouth near the line which may give problems if Weils disease is prevalent.
Just out of interest as i'd never heard of it until now, how would you know if weils disease was prevalent? I just googled it and it doesn't sound pleasant!
You don't! Also bear in mind that Weils disease can be spread by Rats, Squirrels, Foxes, Badgers and some other mammals as well. Obviously if Rats are present and a problem you are not going to be licking your line.
Please do not forget humans.
One of the worst outbreaks of weils in the world accured when a large number reported ill,it was found the only commen denominator was a swimming pool.
The pool was checked for virmin ingress,none was found so blood test were conducted.
One carrier was found to have urinated in the pool
-
I prefer mine quite short nowdays,my reasoning is if its to long my flat cap keeps falling off
-
Just out of interest are you still using a hanger/indicator withthe slack line??? reason i ask is if you have a slack line the indicator gives enough resistance to the alarm to spin the wheel. If you have no hanger on then the line is sitting above the wheel and it will not spin as easily.
With a slack line you register the bite earlier, reason is the line pulls tight and moves easier, a tight line needs the stretch of the line first before it takes line from the reel and so make the alarm beep.
One thing, if you set your rods up on the bank correctly for running rigs you will get better indication and also be able to use lighter leads. The tighter your line the heavier the lead needed because underpressure the lead is a pivot point, slack it is not. The best way is tyo create as few angles in the line from reel to lead. meaning point the rod at the lead, and also angle the tip of the rod and butt of the rod so that the line comes direct from the line roller on the bail arm to the lead. All you then want to do is strip a couple yards of line off the spool, wait for it to settle and rest the hanger on the ground. Once picked up the hanger creates the pressure and the alarm beeps.
I couldn't agree more,slack lines move the wheel on alarms easyer that tight lines.
When im fishing slack lines I have my sensetivety turned right up other wise I would go mad with the constant bleeps.
-
Not only will the shape of the lead make a difference as Nick said,but the type of bottom.
A 1oz pendent will give more resistence on a silty bottom than on a firm one
You basicly need to work out for yourself what you need the lead to do, eg plug in the bottom,sit on the clay -gravel ,the range you wish to cast etc.
It is something that you as an angler need to work out for yourself by a mixture of common sense and experience.
Running rigs: what hooklength?
in UK Rig Tying
Posted
I could not agree more, if only more people would realise this the carp would be better of.