jsouth Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 I have been fishing with the semi fixed rig a lot at close distances lately and am trying to simplify the rig. From the hook end my rig has been: hook (hair rig w/ knotless knot), fluoro(coated) hooklink, swivel, rubber bead, running bead with swivel lead, glass bead, float stop. This can also be easily modified to a bolt rig by slipping the float stop further up the main line. I know this works as a safety rig because the float stop is often several feet up the line when I get a fish in. I would like the rig to be (from the hook end) hook (hair rig w/ knotless knot), 2x float stop, glass bead, running bead with swivel lead, glass bead, float stop. This will have the mainline straight through and avoid two palomer knots. It will also allow me to quickly change hooklink lengths. The only complication is the knotless knot. The knotless knot really assumes that nothing is attached to either end of the line when you start. I have tried just snelling the hook and creating the hair loop with the slack but it is on the outside of the knot so the hair doesn't lay against the hook. I'm trying to avoid adding any rings or tubing to the hook. Is there an obvious solution I'm missing? Quote
ghosth Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 I tie all my rigs on the spot, with as few parts, bits, and pieces as possible. Like you I have been working on developing a good hair rig that I can tie right on the mainline. All I use is a single bead as a weight stop, so the sinker can't travel all the way to the hook. (running rig) I am using Braid, in 10 - 20lb test. Try this and see how it works for you. Line from rod tip,(bead & float stop) through sinker, through bead twice. (through the bead, then around and back through the same direction) (btw this lets me adjust distance between hook and sinker on the fly without retieing) Tie hook directly on the end with a Palomar knot, but leave yourself an extra 6 - 8 " of tag end. Once the Palomar is tied on the hook and snugged up, lay the tag end back over the hook to make a loop for your hair rig. Run the end through the eye, adjust length of hair, then spiral around the hook shank several times like the knotless knot. Back through the eye, and back under the last loop (since its a tag end, and will be attached to nothing, this helps hold the knot in place) Tighten, trim end. I am experimenting with using a very small smear of hot melt glue near the bend of the shank to hold the line to the hook. Quote
jsouth Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Posted May 11, 2009 I tie all my rigs on the spot, with as few parts, bits, and pieces as possible. Like you I have been working on developing a good hair rig that I can tie right on the mainline. All I use is a single bead as a weight stop, so the sinker can't travel all the way to the hook. (running rig) I am using Braid, in 10 - 20lb test. Try this and see how it works for you. Line from rod tip,(bead & float stop) through sinker, through bead twice. (through the bead, then around and back through the same direction) (btw this lets me adjust distance between hook and sinker on the fly without retieing) Tie hook directly on the end with a Palomar knot, but leave yourself an extra 6 - 8 " of tag end. Once the Palomar is tied on the hook and snugged up, lay the tag end back over the hook to make a loop for your hair rig. Run the end through the eye, adjust length of hair, then spiral around the hook shank several times like the knotless knot. Back through the eye, and back under the last loop (since its a tag end, and will be attached to nothing, this helps hold the knot in place) Tighten, trim end. I am experimenting with using a very small smear of hot melt glue near the bend of the shank to hold the line to the hook. Thanks for the detailed response I will attempt the rig when I get home tonight. One thing I tried before going to bed last night was cutting a piece of mono and tying the loop in it. Next I put the other end through the eye of the hook and snelled the line against the hook shank. Now I have to decide how to secure that hair piece of mono if I'm to go that route. I'm not sure if snelling is still as strong if you have 10+ windings of mono? Quote
thedddjjj Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 Only knot I ever use: For eyed hooks make sure you go through the eye first from underneath. Spade End Whip 1. Double end of line along shank. Loop free end around line and hook. 2. Perform six turns with free end and pass through doubled loop. 3. Lubricate and pull tight, trim. Be careful of the hook point when pulling tight!!! http://www.garysmithfishing.com/shoreinfop8.htm Quote
jsouth Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Posted May 11, 2009 Only knot I ever use: For eyed hooks make sure you go through the eye first from underneath. Spade End Whip 1. Double end of line along shank. Loop free end around line and hook. 2. Perform six turns with free end and pass through doubled loop. 3. Lubricate and pull tight, trim. Be careful of the hook point when pulling tight!!! http://www.garysmithfishing.com/shoreinfop8.htm How do you adapt this as a hair rig? Quote
thedddjjj Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 once you have tied it you will have the end of the line coming off the knot and running in the direction away from the eye of the hook. so you can either tie a loop in it or stick on a D ring and pop it back into the eye and use a lighter to blob it off. Its a very good knot and very easy to tie. Quote
jsouth Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Posted May 11, 2009 once you have tied it you will have the end of the line coming off the knot and running in the direction away from the eye of the hook. so you can either tie a loop in it or stick on a D ring and pop it back into the eye and use a lighter to blob it off. Its a very good knot and very easy to tie. That makes sense, thanks dj Quote
chrispayne Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 Getting rid of the swivel will increase the amount of line twist you get. Quote
hopefull Posted May 11, 2009 Report Posted May 11, 2009 Why not use a shockleader knot to attach the hooklink? http://www.btinternet.com/~kevin.l.j.knight/knot16.htm Quote
jsouth Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Posted May 11, 2009 Why not use a shockleader knot to attach the hooklink? http://www.btinternet.com/~kevin.l.j.knight/knot16.htm Well by getting rid of the swivel I'm using mainline straight through and also removing the hooklink. Quote
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