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Mono Rigs.


fishingverona

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Sorry if this is not the right place to post this. I've just joined a private fishery and one of the rules is that you can only use mono hooklengths. I've had a look for various rigs using mono but not found much. Should I just use it in the same way you would with braid when it comes to tying different types of rigs?

 

Cheers.

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Thanks for the replies. I take it when presenting boilies and pop-ups you would do it the same way as you would with braid? It's just that there seems to be more options to presentation with braid. What are the pro's and con's of using mono compared to braid?

 

Sorry for all the questions, just want to get it right.

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Most of the differences you can see and feel in your own hands so I wont insult your intelligence I hope!

 

The fact braid is much softer means that the carp cannot always feel it in the same way as mono so thats why the ghost was suggested for you.

 

You could use stiff mono to a 360 type rig?

 

Have a look through the rigs on the forum and i am sure you will figure the rest out.

 

You could also use fluorocarbon (but I hate it :lol: )...

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Mono was around long before Braid, and catching well, only our constant want to improve made braid available.

 

Basically you can fish Mono rigs pretty much as you would braid, and there are various types of mono around. Some are softer than others, and obviously you have various diameters for various strains.

 

My suggestion is that with Mono Hooklinks you tie the hook onto the Mono hooklink with a Uni or Clinch knot (or grinner), and tie on a separate hair. I don't know if this hair is allowed to be a braid? ESP do a hair braid as I imagine do other manufacturers, or unflavoured Dental Floss can be stripped down.

If not you can use a lighter mono than your hooklink, I often use 4lb Maxima for hairs or even 7lb Trilene XL.

To protect the knot and hold the hair into the right place I use a bit of shrink tubing over the eye and down the shank.

 

With Pop-ups if you use them you may find a slight problem in that the hooklink curves up to the hook with no real spot that it hinges on J as opposed to L if you understand what I mean.

 

You can tie the hook on with a knotless knot, but I think that the stiffness can work against you at times, especially with Heavier, stiffer breaking strains of mono

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ok my turn to sound dumb now :oops: mono is the same as the line you use on the reels yes or am i totally wrong? and whats the deal with coated braid? whats the difference between this and normal braid? sorry to hijack the original question but this is still on topic i think :oops: i'm just used to using normal drennan soft braid as hook link material to running rigs.

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ok my turn to sound dumb now :oops: mono is the same as the line you use on the reels yes or am i totally wrong? and whats the deal with coated braid? whats the difference between this and normal braid? sorry to hijack the original question but this is still on topic i think :oops: i'm just used to using normal drennan soft braid as hook link material to running rigs.

 

 

Yes mono is your mainline, the term mono is just short for monofilament.... a thin string made from a single fibre,

Generally made from polymers which are melted and mixed, then extruded thru small holes, forming the strands....which are then spun onto spools.

The extrusion process is what determines the thickness (diametre) and breaking strain.

 

Braid is manufactured by weaving man-made filaments of material such as Spectra or Micro-Dyneema into a single strand of braid, similar to spinning cotton or wool.

 

The main difference between the two aside from the feel, is that braid offers no stretch in comparison to the Plastic/polymer based mono. this can be both beneficial and detrimental depending on the use, the latter being the reason some fisherys ban it's use as a mainline, in the wrong hands, it can be like a tow rope.

 

Coated hooklinks are a mix of braid and polymer, usually a braided inner, which is made up in the usual way, but then coated with a mix of polymers which give it that stiff plastic coating,inturn offering the user more options interms of rig make up. :)

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Yeah pretty much.......the method of stripping a section of the coating back creates a sort of hinge, to allow the hook to drop in the mouth when sucked in by the carp / fish, thus creating a better chance of the hook catching hold.

 

Personally I would class any rig that has a stripped section of coating as a "Hinge" rig. which can be used for both bottom baits and pop ups :wink:

 

this thread shows some of the rigs that use coated braids :D

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so i could use a coated braid on a running rig or a shock rig set up? and can you buy them already made up from the tackle shop or do you have to make the rigs yourself? thanks for the help before i forget!!

 

You can use a Coated Braid wherever you like, with any lead set-up, but I try to use it where it will be a benefit for a particular purpose. To totally camouflage the hooklink, or to prevent tangles. If you are using tubing and PVA then Coated braid may not be required for anti tangle purposes.

 

Not sure how many manufacturers sell ready made coated braid rigs, but WHY? You need to be fully trusting your tackle; If a knot goes who is to blame, if it is your knot then you can only blame yourself. If it is down to a ready tied Rig, then who do you blame? It could be your fault, or it could be them, you won't know.

 

Plus if you tie them yourself you can adjust each rig to suit the particualr circumstances, with a ready tied you can't :roll:

 

Try these:

 

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=40225&highlight=ready+made+rigs

 

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=37416&highlight=ready+tied+rigs

 

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26753&highlight=ready+tied+rigs

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when using my normal rig braids i always tie my own i tried the ready made ones once and didnt approve,like was mentioned i like to have a little faith and yes if it goes wrong it is my fault,i didn't explain myself properly i think :roll::oops: with the coated braid do you have to strip back the stiff part to tie the hook to swivel and obviously hook? i'm thinking of having a go but want to make sure i know what i'm doing before i go in heads first if that makes sense :oops: also does it come on a spool like hook braid? any brands people have faith in? thanks all!! :D

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when using my normal rig braids i always tie my own i tried the ready made ones once and didnt approve,like was mentioned i like to have a little faith and yes if it goes wrong it is my fault,i didn't explain myself properly i think :roll::oops: with the coated braid do you have to strip back the stiff part to tie the hook to swivel and obviously hook? i'm thinking of having a go but want to make sure i know what i'm doing before i go in heads first if that makes sense :oops: also does it come on a spool like hook braid? any brands people have faith in? thanks all!! :D

 

If you use the Palomar knot to attach the hooklink to the swivel, you don't need to strip it :wink: and yes, it comes on spools just like normal braid.

 

The Korda Hybrid hooklink materials are a popular choice for many, and are pretty easy to work with as are the Stealth skin range from sufix, tho a lot still have faith in the original kryston mantis range... personally I don't like the colours, so tend to use the first two mentioned for most of my hooklinks.

 

The only thing about Hybrid is you need to steam all knots down under tension before use, otherwise it can snap off.

The steam beds the knot down nice and tight and will also help straighten any kinks out of the hooklink itself.

 

It's a good idea, (If you can afford to,) to have a selection of different materials in your tackle box/bag, then you can adapt to the given situation. :wink:

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It's a good idea, (If you can afford to,) to have a selection of different materials in your tackle box/bag, then you can adapt to the given situation. :wink:

 

The original stiff Hybrid, weed green sheath skin and gravel brown cortex/ E-S-P strip tease will cover most eventualities.

A spool of stiff rig/fluro and soft fluro will come in very handy too

 

Tying a combi link from a thick softer fluro can create hinge rigs slightly stiffer than coretex and suffix but softer than hybrid.

 

Use a stiff fluro or a bristle filament to tie combi rigs as stiff as or stiffer than hybrid and much stiffer than the other braids.

 

BTW- you could tie a combi out of braid and your mainline, it works.

 

Its all about what works best for the job at the time- Being able to adapt (without going mad lol) will catch you more fish :)

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