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Everything posted by dorsetwizard2

  1. So how do you know when to use a certain rig then? It's all very well saying you use a certain rig in certain situations, but expand on that a little please. Fishing the waters I do, you do not get the opportunity to watch fish feed, so how the hell are you going to know what rig is going to produce the goods? Say next time out I change to a D-rig and catch the biggest fish in the lake....and the following session I try out a withy pool and catch a couple of whackers....am I all of a sudden an elite angler, or have i just been lucky? Whats to say it's the rigs that are helping to catch the fish? Would they have been snagged on that simple knotless knot anyway just becasue they were havin it at the time? To be quite brutal, I think alot of anglers will claim that they use a certain rig in certain situations to make themsleves appear to be the next terry Hearn, and catch regardless of the rigs they use, not because of them.
  2. For quite some time I think it's fair to say that the majority of carp anglers have been led to believe that rigs such as the line aligner, rig ring blowback, shrink tube blowback etc have been the way to go. Certainly the 'palm' test shows that a rig using a mugga style hook with some silicon tubing on the bend of the hook turns just about as instantly as you're likely to achieve. But is it really the right thing? I remember when I first started targeting carp, many many years after fishing rivers and small lakes with simple float and ledger tactics, I knew of no other rig than a knotless knot tied with the same mono I was using for mainline. (10lb Big game I think it was) The knot was whipped up the shank, so that it finished in line with the point of the hook. No tubing or rings to be seen. I left a gap of about 10mm from bend of the hook to the boilie. Probably 'the' standard knotless knot hair rig. That rig accounted for 2 20lb fish in 3 12 hour overnighters on a local clay pit fishing with 1 rod, no alarm, no hangers, no fancy hooks. I used a Drennan super specialist in a size 8, simply becuse thats what I used for any big bait fishing. I went on to catch many many fish from my club lakes on the same rigs. Then I moved onto the 'more advanced' rigs such as the line aligner, the blowback, withy pool etc, and in turn moved to harder, bigger waters, where I continued to use the 'advanced' rigs. But now it seems that the buzz word in carp rigs is seperation. So we're doing away with the tubing and tying rigs such as the KD rig which forces the hair away from the shank in a very agressive manner. So in reality, it's gone full circle back to what I started with! The standard hair rig that I tied had very good seperation, and as soon as the tubing is added, there is almost no seperation at all. I have always thought that adding the tubing was in some way detracting from the ability of the hook to catch in the carps mouth, but the 'palm' test told me it was the right thign to do because it turns so fast! I havent bought a magazine for a good 3 or 4 years now, but the ones I did buy obviously brainwashed me into using something I wasnt really in full agreement with. I put it down to me being a bit dim and not understanding 'rig mechanics'. Now I'm thinking for myself, and I believe that the standard hair rig with good bait seperation, tied with the right hook and material, will be a more effective rig than any rig that has the bait restricted in it's movement. When the carp blows out the bait, chances are, the hook will go with it due to it being so close. Yes, alonger hair may help, but why bother with all the fiddly bit's n bobs on those rigs when a standard hair rig does exactly the same thing? (sorry, I edited title typo NG)
  3. The moskill coils deffo work. We had a serious problem with Mozi's when in france a couple of years back, and the coils were superb at clearing out the room. Not sure how well they repell them, but they certainly kill the little swines pretty effectively. Does make all ya gear stink though.
  4. So you ditched the helicopter setup then? As long as your rigs are safe, all is good! Did you use inline leads instead?
  5. Watch out, the forum police are about But it's just not fishing is it?!!! It's like calling trawling with nets fishing....it just aint the same....
  6. I only use helicopter setups if A) I want to fish at maximum range or B) if I want to use leadcore. I dont particularly like the way it works, but it's the most efficient rig for casting IMO, and the only safe(ish) rig to use wth leadcore. And before anyone mentions the chod, thats just a variation of the helicopter anyway. But yea, you can use pop-ups or bottom baits with it, just tailor your hooklink to suit the bait you want to use.
  7. Tangles: Dropping a rig from a boat will result in the whole lot landing in one big heap. to straightne it, you've got to move it right? In doing so, you risk picking up debris on the hook. Not good. You cast to the same spot, feather it, and the rig lands ina stright line, you can let it settle, job done. Spooking fish: You cast once maybe twice, and yep, you're gonna spook fish if they're in the area, but they'll be back cos they're probably used to leads landing all around them, and may even takes it as a sign of food to come. (i caught a fish just the other week where I was still baiting up with a stick so baits landing on their heads doesnt always mean they spook and move to the other end of the lake) Drive a boat over theor head and they aint gonna like it much either.....difference is that they dont see the too often, and they noise they make is probably exteremly loud underwater. Baiting up: Scattered baits by stick/caty/spod will naturally be spread about reasonably well. Even the most astute angler will spread baist to a degree, and this gets the fish moveing around searching for food instead of sittin on the spot. Drop a kilo on one spot and it just dont look right does it?! The fish dont have to move around, so there's more chance of you being 'done' Fishing to snags: Makes no odds how u get ur rig there, you should always make an effort to 'test out' the snag before fishing to it. If it's bad, dont fish there. Using a boat to drop it in the snag is just plain stupid, at least when you cast it there you'll get an idea of where you landed by the feeling you get from the lead. Overhanging bushes: You can cast there just as well as a boat can put you there, just use a setup that allows the rig to slide up the line and aim for the lead to clip the edge of the bush. Boats are no advantage. Distance: Fishing at 400 yrds is not needed in 99% of situations. If you cant cast there, dont fish there, simple as.
  8. More than once! 2 of the 3 are iffy at best! The reciever is totally screwed lol Never ever again will I buy anything made by Fox!
  9. Worst buys: Fox MMXR Alarms and reciever - unreliable, battery hungry, badly built, over priced crud. Illuminated hangers for the above - Made battery life even worse, too bright and the wire snapped easy. X-line in 12lb - Say no more Best Buys: JRC STi JRC Super Cocoon bedchair Trakker peachskin bag and thermal cover
  10. You could use a solution of Dettol and rinse the net is there, thats what alot of fishkeepers do....But, the best way in my opinion is to ensure that everything is completely dried out after your session which you do anyway. Nets are easy to dry, but I find my unhooking mat is a pain in the butt becuase water gets trapped under the kneeling mat and no matter how many times it's turned over, it always seems to retain moisture for a few days. Takes at least 2 days for it to dry out completely
  11. I should mention that you'll need fairly heavy weights to hold in the flow up the shallow end as it can run quite fast. If you're using a feeder, it's worth grabbing some extra weights from the tackle shop as the fish often sit against the reeds on the opposite bank. Keep your rod tip as high as poss to keep the line out the flow. Dont be afriad to fish with sturdy gear either, you might need it! good luck!
  12. Hi, You can only fish the bank opposite the hotel, and you cant physically walk any further than the small weir at the end of the stretch so no worries about encroaching onto private land. At this time of year, I tend to use maggot feeders mostly, but will use small (8 - 10mm) pellets aswell if they're havin it. Feed up your swim with hemp for a while before fishing, I did this for about 4 hours once and had 6 chub from 5.5lbs to 6.5 lbs in 45 minutes when I finally cast in. The top end is much shallower and you can easily spot fish on bright sunny days. Not so easy to do further downstream though. Enjoy it m8, I'm sure you'll bag a few fish.
  13. Hi, If it's just the Longham stretch you'll be fishing, a longish landing net handle will be a bonus on certain swims, but not essential. The Barbel haunt the top end of the stretch from the bridge down for about a hundred yrds or so. There are some very big barbel in there, well into double figures.....or at leats there was.....dont know how many have gone home to the pot in recent years Also worth a try for Barbel is the very last swim of the stretch where there is a small weir. The whole strecth holds some very nice chub, but watch out for the Pike if you're pullin in the small stuff, you'll get bitten off plenty! You should have a few days good fishing on there, and if you fancy a change of scenery, the Muscliffe stretch is also free but is about 5 or 6 miles away from where you are staying. There's about 2 miles of free fishing there, with the bets bit towards the throop end. Good luck!
  14. No day tickets available for Kingsbridge, havent been for a few years now due to litter being left all over the place. Best bet would be to ask in a tackle shop in Wareham as I dont know if wareham angling club allow day tickets or not. If you can travel to Poole, there is Rockley lake which is free and holds some decent fish.
  15. I'm out on the 15th for 3 days. Not on a river though, on a club lake that still has the good old close season as it's an SSSI. 23 acres, 30 fish, and choked with weed top to bottom.......I must be mad Cant bloomin wait, been looking forward to getting back on there since last November, there is nowhere nicer to blank!
  16. Oh dear oh dear, I think I rememeber why I stopped posting on here now! Fashionable......cos Fairbrss uses them.....do me a favour! I dont even know what the bloke looks like never mind what rods he uses. @666, misunderstanding maybe, but just for fun, next time your out on a lake where it's safe to do so.... try casting a 4oz lead 130yrds with 12lb straight through and tell me how u get on, reckon it could be amusing!
  17. Yea, easy as long as you dont crack off! My point isnt that it's not possible, it's that you are highly likey to crack off..... sooner or later it's gonna happen. As I said before, I've cracked off on 12lb pro clear when going for 90 odd yrds, so to regularly cast 100+ without a shockie is irresponsible. A weak spot in the line is going to cause a problem for anyone unfortunate enough to get in the way of the lead. Must be my poor technique, but I know damn well that I'd crack off if I tried for 130yrds on my 12lb line.
  18. 130yrds with 12lb straight through And you do that regularly?
  19. lol, Stoogi put me right on what you were sayin about the WEED sliding down the line, my bad, must be the beer! lol Never had a problem with the lead ejecting when in a bag. Maybe it happens when people go to the extreme and put the tail rubber on too loose? We're fishing after all is said and done. We want to catch fish, not feed them, so as long as the rig is safe, give the fish something to deal with, dont make it easy by dropping the lead at the first sign of movement. If you lose lead sin bags I'd suggest you're playing too safe, or have naff clips! You could just tie it up with PVA string anyway, no big deal. I'd feel way happier using a clip than an inline in weed. Used both methods on a session on a mega weedy water last year, inline snagged up, lead clips didnt. Enough for me to make my mind up!
  20. Rod wise, it's better to be overgunned when fishing small waters than underpowerd on the big ones dont you think? I have 3.5 rods, but they're pretty soft through action rods, and I'm quite happy playing fish on them at close range, but they do gain me distance on the waters where I need to cast a fair way. Line wise, I use 12lb pro clear, .29mm diamter so casts reasonably well and breaks at 14lb so gives a bit of abrasion resistance. For long chucks, a shockie should ALWAYS be used. I dunno who said they could cast well over 100yrds with a 4 oz lead without a shockie, but I dont believe them....no matter how soft your rods are. I've cracked off on that 12lb mono just trying to hit 90 odd with a 3oz lead. Hooklinks are usually 15lb braid, but only because you cant get lower breaking starin. Fluro is 10lb BS, and after the stick I gave it last weekend, I see no reason to use anything stronger. On the big pit subject...pits will only gain you distance if you have 50mm butt rings on your rods. If you have 40 mms (most common) then you'll get more distance from soething like a shimmy XTE 10k baitrunner. Pits are also very heavy (unless you're made of money) and upset the balance of the rods..given the chouice again, I wouldnt buy the reels I have, they're way way way too heavy.
  21. Yea, and big things are hard to hide
  22. Or... You can tie a loop in a bit of mono that is the same length as the diameter of your bait and just use the loop onto the rig ring (threaded through itself to secure it) and hair rig the bait to the loop as normal. Thats my preferred option cos I find it easier, but probably not the textbook way to do it! lol
  23. Many a true word said in jest
  24. Do what?! Slide down onto the hook?!!! U gotta be jokin right!?!? If my lead was sliding onto the hook I'd be very very worried. Inline sit above a swivel, so how do they slide down onto the hook? Inlines are a no no when fishing in weed in my opinion. they'll snag on weed just like any other setup. Your best bet in my humble opinion, is to use lead clips, (I use the Armaled clips and rubbers aswell) and just push the rubbe on lightly, half a cm is enough to stop the lead ejecting on the cast, but still throw the lead very easily. If you're fishing into weed, put the whole rig into a PVA bag, not only does it give you some freebies around ur bait, it guarentees your rig is sat nicely on the bottom and not hooked up on some weed and also means you can set the tail rubber light without fear of losing the lead on the cast when goin for the biggun.
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