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aodouble

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  • Location
    Gloucestershire
  • Interests
    Carp, Pike, Barbel, Bass, Rugby

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  1. For mono leaders (I don't use braided ones because of the lack of stretch), I tie an overhand loop in the leader, pass the mainline through the loop in the same way as the tag comes out. Tighten the leader loop then pull some more mainline through so there is no damage to the mainline in the knot. I then tie a grinner knot around the leader, moisten and slowly pull tight. This is the strongest I have tested for joining lines of different diameters but it will always be a weak point in the set up so I re-tie and test before each session.
  2. I think there is more than one carp sense that comes into play here with end tackle and lines. There is of course sight but this is more important on clear gravel pits than on a lake the colour of coffee. I always try to use the right colours and disruptive camoflage to eliminate this from the eqaution. I use fluorocarbon but I still don't believe it's completely invisible (especially when it colours up in silt). It does sink well which is its best attribute. Second is feel and this is where multistrand has its advantages. I often use a small section of multistrand on a fluoro combi when barbel fishing to get the best of invisibility and feel close to the bait where the barbules can reach. Snakeskin can be used in the same way. For me, the most important factor, relating to tight lines is vibration. The power of the fishes lateral line to detect tight lines (even if it can't see or feel them). I am sure this is the case in running water at least. In still water there is still the effect wind and undertow. On some waters I have fished, it dies if there are tight lines going out every 20 yards right around the lake. In similar conditions mid-week, without the lines, the carp go crazy. Slack lines are definitely the way to go.
  3. I take your point on this. Flourocarbon is a bit lively. I haven't had any problems with it so far but not been using it for long. I am interested in your approach to running rigs. Not really ever persevered with them enough for carp (only pike). Apart from greater bite indication and safety do you feel this gives you any other advantages. I'd be interested to get your thoughts on how you feel this rig worksand how you set it up. Is resistance an issue like for pike? Do you need heavier leads to make it work properly? How do the fish not simply reject before the hook is set? Does it work at longer range? etc etc Couple of threads that may interest: http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26640 http://www.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=27479 Thanks mate. Looks like these issues have already been discussed at length. I will try one rod with the Solar run rig set up and ultra slack this year and see how it goes. The post about pike and constant pressure has now also got me thinking.
  4. I take your point on this. Flourocarbon is a bit lively. I haven't had any problems with it so far but not been using it for long. I am interested in your approach to running rigs. Not really ever persevered with them enough for carp (only pike). Apart from greater bite indication and safety do you feel this gives you any other advantages. I'd be interested to get your thoughts on how you feel this rig worksand how you set it up. Is resistance an issue like for pike? Do you need heavier leads to make it work properly? How do the fish not simply reject before the hook is set? Does it work at longer range? etc etc
  5. I'm new to this forum and all this debate over leaders fascinates me. I have been doing a lot of thinking and experimenting around this subject - not always related to carp fishing. I do a lot of beach fishing and barbelling as well. I fully concur with the thoughts on leadcore. It is dangerous stuff and I don't really see the need for it. Consider the reasons for using a leader/tubing: - to protect against damage from gravel, weed or other snags - a shockleader for distance casting (although I see this as really just a heavier extension of the mainline) - to prevent tangles - to pin down the line near the end tackle - to camoflage things near the baited area In my opinion, the only legitimate reasons are the first 2. By using the right set up and rig components you can fish tangle free without leaders. Fishing slack lines or using backleads / putty plus fluorocarbon mainlines helps ensure everything is on the deck. At distance, it will be anyway. As for camoflage, there is nothing more obtrusive than 4ft of 45lb tow rope running in a straight line to your bait (might as well have a flashing neon arrow!). Also, I have read a lot recently about the use of leaders being required to prevent scale damage. In my limited experience, I have yet to have a problem when using just mainline. I would change immediately if anyone can convince me otherwise or if I see it myself. I think fish get more scale damage in their annual spawning rituals than is inflicted by lines. Anyone have any thoughts?
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