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Spod & marker Set up


stu_wigan
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Yes i agree, they are more of a luxury than an essential.

 

You have to admit that they do make life easier, with out dedicated equipment you have to work harder to achieve the same effect.

 

 

i dont know, i use an old 3lb carp rod as a marker and and got a second hand 3.5lb carp rod for my spod, must be why i feel knackered after spodding :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

On the subject of budget spod/marker reels,

My dad recently brought a pair of Mitchell Avocets from Eric's £25 a peice and i have to say they are a solid reel, amazing quality for the money.

I have never seen such a good reel for that price! they are well worth there rrp of over £50!

only time will tell but for £25 a perfect spod reel with out the price tag :)

Very impressed.

They look very blingy too 8)

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  • 1 month later...

For a Marker set-up most people prefer using Braid on the reel as with braid you get more feel of the bottom than you do with Mono. This is because Braid does not stretch (well correctly minimal amount)

 

I also like using a Shockleader with Braid. My choice is Amnesia in 30lb, preferably Black, or Greased Weasel in Grey 40lb.

There are a couple of reasons for this:

 

1) If you have a miscast with wet braid, and the line slips then it can make a very nasty cut through your fingers (to the bone )

 

2) With a Shockleader of about 4or5 metres you don't lose much feel, and the Ring can often slide better than it would on the braid

 

3) You have a shock absorber to take some of the pressure if you do really need to whack it a long distance.

 

 

If there is weed present then this with a boom/link section will normally allow the Marker float to the surface:

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I make the Lead link exactly 1 foot (30 centimetres). I usually use metric for all my rig lengths, but when it comes to depth finding go back to Feets and inches :roll: Just add a figure of 1foot to whatever you let off the reel then you will be very close when it comes to exact depth :wink:

 

There is a Sticky in Rig Tying about tying various knots for Shockleaders, but I still recommend this knot for Braid to Mono:

knot.gif

Tie an Overhand knot in the Shockleader and then thread the braid through it, then do the loops around the Leader, wet and pull tight.

 

As for finding the best time to use the Marker rod, when you want to know what the bottom make-up is like, how it feels and how deep it is.

Just don't do it if it will upset the anglers around you or it may mess up your own fishing :wink:

Very useful for making a Feature map of the lake

 

 

 

Now For Spodding, I prefer to use Mono, again it is down to that lack of stretch. I know that when I have spodded with Braid I have cut my fingers, and ripped through a leather finger stall, had the eyes on a Spod rod ruined as the braid has worn through the tip eye and Butt ring (There is always tension as you reel in).

 

The set-up is simple enough, thread the line through the rings, attach the Shockleader so that you have a minimum of 4 or 5 turns on the reel and then attach a swivel. Most spods come equipped with a Link Clip. If not then Breakaway Spinlink clips (Sea Fishing Tackle) are perfect to attach the spod on with.

 

 

 

Spodding, that is the eternal question. There are a number of threads on whether to spod or not :wink:

 

I had been juggling pics about on photobucket and moved the original links. To keep it fresh, rather than edit I have re-posted this again.

 

It may be worth other ideas on using a marker and how people feel around the bottom of the lake.

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F.A.O. Zander1

 

What a cracking post zander1, very informative and very helpfull, now can you do a same post for a marker rod please, i have just ordered a shimano aerlex on your recommendation.

 

thank you

 

woody

woody you wont be disapointed with your new buy, mates had one for time now, and there a real workhorse for the price :lol: , plus there like the toyota hilux of top gear, UNDISTRUCTABLE :wink::lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

a bait runner (or free spool if its not shimano)is a switch that allows you to go from giving line to locked up(or inbetween dependant on your settings)

 

when using a marker rod the switch makes it a little quicker and easier, flick the switch, pull line out,reel back, which disengages the runner.

 

on a reel with just a clutch/drag you have to loosen it first ,then tighten it after.

 

doing a few hours marking out and the switch can save you time/get you more info during the time.

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Everyone saying about the Shimano Aerlex reels are great to spod (and I'm going to get one!) but I was advised that for marker reels you need to have a baitrunner style reel, is this right? Does the Aerlex have a baitrunner on it or something similar?

If not what other shimano reel would you recommend?

 

I use the Aerlex for Marker and Spod work. It is the work of a second to tighten or loosen the front drag, and the advantage with a big reel is that you can easily cast as far as your fishing rods :wink:

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you dont need the bait runner,just thats the reason why its preferred.

 

i use daiwa emcast evo, £45 at the time but that was a while back and im sure theyre around £60 now.

 

and the is bit of a techy argument going on that without a 50mm butt ring a big pit doesnt actually give much more distance because of the bigger loops causing more fiction on a 40mm ring.

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Cheers for letting me know - very helpful. I'm just going to buy a marker reel and don't want to waste money on a reel that's not up to the job.

I've seen the Aerlex 8000 for £53 and have'nt seen anything else that cheap.

the only other one is the Navi XTA that does have a baitrunner but is £30 more.

Have a look on erics angling, they were doing the arlex for 45 quid last time i checked!
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you dont need the bait runner,just thats the reason why its preferred.

 

i use daiwa emcast evo, £45 at the time but that was a while back and im sure theyre around £60 now.

 

and the is bit of a techy argument going on that without a 50mm butt ring a big pit doesnt actually give much more distance because of the bigger loops causing more fiction on a 40mm ring.

 

The techy bit makes perfect sense, I'll bare that in mind cheers

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you dont need the bait runner,just thats the reason why its preferred.

 

i use daiwa emcast evo, £45 at the time but that was a while back and im sure theyre around £60 now.

 

and the is bit of a techy argument going on that without a 50mm butt ring a big pit doesnt actually give much more distance because of the bigger loops causing more fiction on a 40mm ring.

 

The techy bit makes perfect sense, I'll bare that in mind cheers

 

That is where the arelex/navi/bios come in as they arent a "BIG" big pit, bigger than a normal bait runner by a fair way, but no where near as big as the super Ultegras and Power aeros etc. In my opinion the arelex size are just right as they dont hamper casting but the large handles and spools make retreival easier :)

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  • 11 months later...
tancho321

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Posted: 5th Jan 2011 20:49 Post subject: Which braid?

 

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Hi Guys,

I am looking at getting a braided mainline for spodding and marking but not quite sure which to go for. Don't want to spend huge amounts but don't want to get cheapest to find am changing again in a few months. What do people think about using braided leaders? Am worried that it might not be good enough for feature finding etc when linked to mono that will stretch. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

cobleyn

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Posted: 5th Jan 2011 21:02 Post subject: Which braid.

 

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I've used braid from ebay for the last 3 years... Cheap as chips and imported from the far east. I've paid as little as 10p for 300 yards. There's absolutely no difference to the expensive stuff that tackle companies charge a fortune for.

 

I always use a 50lb leader and a 10-15lb mailine dependant on what's cheap.

mike_t

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Posted: 5th Jan 2011 21:15 Post subject:

 

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i use berkley whiplash on my spod and marker tied to korda arma kord as a shock leader which is bout 20-25ft long it casts really well and seems to be quite abrasion resistant its been on my rods for bout 2-3 years n its fine.

regards to useing mono are you thinking of useing mono then tieing it to braid or the other way round?

mono to braid depending on breaking strain might be alright for markering but i wont transmit as much back up the rod as braid would straight thro also it would crack off if u try in spod with mono to braid.

 

braid tied to a shock leader is probably your best bet in my opinion.

 

hope this helps

tancho321

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Posted: 5th Jan 2011 21:30 Post subject:

 

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Thanks for quick responses both. Will check ebay out, never even thought of looking there!

 

Would defo prefer braid straight through with shock leader to get good feel up to the rod. Struggled with mono and leader this season (spot the newbie!!) but fortunately didn't need to get distances and bed was basically silt all the way!

salokcinnodrog

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Posted: 5th Jan 2011 22:55 Post subject:

 

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tancho321 wrote:

Thanks for quick responses both. Will check ebay out, never even thought of looking there!

 

Would defo prefer braid straight through with shock leader to get good feel up to the rod. Struggled with mono and leader this season (spot the newbie!!) but fortunately didn't need to get distances and bed was basically silt all the way!

 

 

I've posted on it before, but I WON'T use braid on a Spod rod for a few reasons:

 

The main one is that I have had braid wear out the tip and butt eyes on a Spod rod, the spod being retrieved is constantly under tension, and that was with a Korda Skyline Spod. A standard average value rod may well have the guides worn away by that braid in as little as 6months

That wearing away of the guides then managed to frag my Shockeader.

 

The next reason is that a Spod can weigh as much as 10 or even 12ozs when full, with braid you SHOULD be allowing 20lbs per ounce of casting weight as there is no stretch. I'll let you work out what Breaking Strain braid you need.

 

The final reason is that I like my fingers, and a wet braid can slip or a miscast can well make mincemeat out of your fingers. Braid is capable of cutting straight through to the bone

 

I use 8lbs breaking strain mono (usually Daiwa Sensor) to a 60lb Grey Drennan Greased Weasel leader. That covers me for all the spodding I do now, to just over 100metres.

 

I also found a cheaper Spod rod was false economy, the cheaper one, at the same sort of price as the Wychwood Rogue and Fox Warrior, an Abu Segra (using the same sort of eyes) as I said died a death. I ended up buying a Century Big Bertha DD, the BIG CASTING spod rod, and that has definitely made a lot of difference in a good way.

 

For a Marker Rod I have no problems with braid to a Shock Leader, again either the Drennan Weasel in 40lb, or Black Amnesia in 30lb.

 

The braid I get is from E-bay, usually Sure Catch Eco Braid in 30lb a diameter of 0.23mm and is 100% Dyneema.

 

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  • 1 year later...

 

Posted: 18th Feb 2012 15:40 Post subject: Feature / Depth Finding

 

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Hello Everyone

 

I've never really bothered with a Marker Rod .

 

I had a go today , and the question I have please is ;

What is the minimum weight ledger that I need to use ? .

 

I think I've just used 3 1/2 ozs which I found hard to control - must get a finger stall .

 

Thanks .

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you dont need the bait runner,just thats the reason why its preferred.

 

i use daiwa emcast evo, £45 at the time but that was a while back and im sure theyre around £60 now.

 

and the is bit of a techy argument going on that without a 50mm butt ring a big pit doesnt actually give much more distance because of the bigger loops causing more fiction on a 40mm ring.

 

I was at the Ricoh show on Sunday listening to the guys from free spirit and someone bought up the question about the size of the butt ring and I also spoke to Sonik about the butt ring aswel, and the opinion from both rod manufacturers was that there was very minimal difference between the 40 and 50 mm butt rings, personally I think this has come from Danny Fairbass who is always harping on about having a bigger butt ring but the opinion of the rod makers are completely different it appears

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you dont need the bait runner,just thats the reason why its preferred.

 

i use daiwa emcast evo, £45 at the time but that was a while back and im sure theyre around £60 now.

 

and the is bit of a techy argument going on that without a 50mm butt ring a big pit doesnt actually give much more distance because of the bigger loops causing more fiction on a 40mm ring.

 

I was at the Ricoh show on Sunday listening to the guys from free spirit and someone bought up the question about the size of the butt ring and I also spoke to Sonik about the butt ring aswel, and the opinion from both rod manufacturers was that there was very minimal difference between the 40 and 50 mm butt rings, personally I think this has come from Danny Fairbass who is always harping on about having a bigger butt ring but the opinion of the rod makers are completely different it appears

 

The word I heard used to describe it by rod makers was "fashion".

 

Rod makers KNOW that to us mere mortals it makes absolutely no odds, but it has become "lore" that a 50mm butt ring will make a difference. The problem is that due to fashion, us plonkers won't buy an item unless it's fashionable :wink::lol:

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  • 1 month later...
hookedoncarp

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 16:11 Post subject: HELP... with marker rod

 

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Hi, Ive put a little set up together for a marker rod but recently after a few uses found that on 90% of the casts i find the spot i want to fish but the float never comes up. After reeling in i find that the braid has twisted around the loop which the braid runs through to attach the lead. Has anyone else had this issue? its kinda making my marker rod redundant because its pretty much useless if it hardly ever comes to the surface. BTW i am using the fox marker float kit with ESP braid. Any help appreciated.

 

fantasticmrfox

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 16:25 Post subject:

 

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I've never had this problem myself, maybe try putting some stiff plastic tubing over the last bit of braid to the float so the run ring with the lead on it sits on this on the cast, should help prevent tangles...

 

hope that helps mate

jemsue5

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 16:49 Post subject:

 

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Have the lead on a short 10" or so stiff link with the lead at one end and a smooth runring at the other. i also use a nylon leader for the last 30ft or so tied to my braid as this runs through the runring more easily and doesn't tangle as much.

hookedoncarp

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 17:09 Post subject:

 

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What shape leads are you guys using? im thinking the lead is bouncing in a circular motion when being pulled through the weed causing the braid to twist around the loop. Maybe an extra swivel could solve my problem?

marty_h

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 17:52 Post subject:

 

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I'm not a great lover of Korda stuff but have to say there marker float kit does a good job. Comes with 2 different weights and the strait link to the lead and the rubber beads needed does the job spot on and I have never had the float not come up.

 

You got a big rubber bead between the float and lead if you have not that could be the cause of your problems or you could fix the float 6" up from your lead with a shot and a rubber bead it defo won't snag up then and just remember to add 6" onto what ever depth your float shows

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 19:38 Post subject:

 

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I'm with Jez, I always use a link for the lead and an Amnesia Shock leader on my marker rod as I have found that braid does tangle, and it is on the cast, and also when wet a miscast is very good at cutting fingers if it slips. That cut can go down to the bone!

 

 

 

As for lead it is what you are comfortable with, I've used Pear leads, or even the Minesweeper style leads and not found a problem. The Minesweeper leads are pretty good in that they often bring back some of the lakebed or weed on the retrieve so although you might not find "exact" position, you at least have an idea of the lakebed and what it is made up of.

kevtaylor

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Posted: 26th Mar 2012 23:30 Post subject:

 

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You need to push a 2 inch section of thin tubing into the big marker bead (like a tadpole to look at) so the run ring sits on the tubing up against the bead - it stops the twist in flight and protects the braid from constant wear.

 

I also tie a stiff boom of florocarbon between run ring and lead to keep the float above the low weed.

 

Both things have completely sorted my set-up - coz before I had the same thing happening - tight lines!

 

oh and feathering the cast to stop everything separating

hookedoncarp

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Posted: 27th Mar 2012 10:40 Post subject:

 

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Cheers fellas some good suggestions made. Ill give the silicon tubing a bash. Also looking at how fox set up their markers, they have a foam ball on a section of the stiff link which i haven't put on. So hopefully both of these will sort my issues.

nigewoodcock

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Posted: 27th Mar 2012 15:26 Post subject:

 

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I use a Korda safezone leader. They will not hel as a shock leader (too short) but will be just enough to prevent tangles without gaining a lot of stretch. The lead on a boom with a corkball at the top is always a good idea in weed (or the korda or fox kits if you have the spare cash).

carpfisherlee

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Posted: 28th Mar 2012 22:38 Post subject:

 

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a leader will sort out the issue you mention.

mattgroves

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Posted: 31st Mar 2012 12:00 Post subject:

 

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I used to have the same problem mate, I sorted it by added a heli sleeve at the base of the float and using a larger diameter braid as a leader (80lb spiderwire, which is less supple than Whiplash). Leader is about 25 feet long so it has a good few turns on the spool and then the rod length and a 5-6 foot drop...

 

So, from the rod end: whiplash in 25lb, back-to-back grinner to 80lb spiderwire leader > korda marker stem > big bead > heli sleeve > quick link

 

The quick link pulls in to the heli sleeve, as does half the barrel on the swivel at the bottom of the float, this gives nice separation and still allows the float to turn/spin on the swivel (I always felt the tapered bead supplied in the korda kit reduced this)...

hookedoncarp

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Posted: 2nd Apr 2012 08:56 Post subject:

 

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thanks, ill try the heli sleeve idea. I tried the tubing which sorted the problem initially but when reel back in the twists in the line still occur. Making it on good for one cast.... i thought these fox kits where supposed to be the easiest option???

salokcinnodrog

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Posted: 2nd Apr 2012 10:19 Post subject:

 

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hookedoncarp wrote:

thanks, ill try the heli sleeve idea. I tried the tubing which sorted the problem initially but when reel back in the twists in the line still occur. Making it on good for one cast.... i thought these fox kits where supposed to be the easiest option???

 

The best cure is a mono leader

mattgroves

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Posted: 2nd Apr 2012 20:07 Post subject:

 

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hookedoncarp wrote:

thanks, ill try the heli sleeve idea. I tried the tubing which sorted the problem initially but when reel back in the twists in the line still occur. Making it on good for one cast.... i thought these fox kits where supposed to be the easiest option???

Are you feathering the line and then stopping it in order to feel the lead down? Might be caused by the lad and marker landing badly?

 

I'm not familiar with the fox kit, but from the sounds of it the swivels may not be as free turning as they need to be?

 

Are you letting the float up at regular intervals on the retrieve?

No swivel in fishing works as it is intended to

 

 

I have never bought a Marker float kit, and make my own lead boom.

 

It is simply a Run Ring running up and down the Amnesia leader, with a (Sea Fishing) spinlink attached and a length of 30lb Amnesia attached to the spinlink. At the other end is another spinlink with the lead attached to it. At the base of the leader is a large swivel, which is used only to attach another spinlink which the float is connected.

 

Thinking about it, I have not broken down my Marker set-up so far for 3 years, the leader is regularly checked for nicks and scratches, and the braid is still in good condition.

 

hookedoncarp

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Posted: 4th Apr 2012 09:07 Post subject:

 

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Normally i just let it plonk in the water because im not casting at great distance, sometimes i will feather it. I try to let it up at regular intervals but im find itll come up once and then twist round on itself which is weird. Im thinking it might be to do with the lead turning as it bounces across the bottom. Im using a minesweeper type lead... might try a flat lead. To be honest i thought the fox kit would be the best to get but comparing it to the korda one im thinking ive bought the wrong marker...

hookedoncarp

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Posted: 10th Apr 2012 13:00 Post subject:

 

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Ive managed to sort the tangling problem. Turns out a bead which was supplied with the product was causing it to tangle. Took the bead off, added a few swivels to allow for twisting and now its sorted.

yipikiaye

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Posted: 14th Apr 2012 16:04 Post subject:

 

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I think i have had this problem before . What i done was put a bead on between the marker float and the lead stops the marker getting stuck to the lead and tangling hope this helps .

rosstheangler

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Posted: 14th Apr 2012 17:56 Post subject:

 

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I use a short mono leader say 6ft, seems to do the trick.

 

bish_471985

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 18:06 Post subject: spooling help

 

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hi guys,

 

Finally bought myself a new marker rod set up, i got a shimmy biomaster 7000 and a fox warrior 3lb tc marker rod, really happy with the combo and cant wait to get out and use it

 

My question is, what do you guys spool your reels with, there's alot of braid on the market and im not sure if a leader will be relevant as i fish large ish gravel pits, any info/recommendations would be very gratefull!

 

thanks

sirblanksalot

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 21:56 Post subject:

 

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I use the dyneema braid on both spod & marker, find it on ebay for around £10 for 300m, can't fault it so far.

 

 

 

jay

bish_471985

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 22:03 Post subject:

 

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thanks, gotta get some on it for this weekend lol. vwhats it like on the cast pal? i definately think that some of this mainline braid is over priced but it is far superior to mono

sirblanksalot

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 22:13 Post subject:

 

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No probelms on the cast as long as it's wet first, i use 20lb on the marker and 40 on the spod, my son has the same on his setups which get alot more hammer than mine do and still o.k.

 

I once paid a fortune for spiderwire and it was poo

 

Only downside is the items come from hong kong which could take up to two weeks , other than that i'd recommend it.

 

hth jay

bish_471985

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 22:17 Post subject:

 

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cheers pal, looks fine and think im gonna go with it, just cant be bothered paying bigger bucks for better brands like spider wire and ultima, if i had to really get the float out at a great distance then i would warrant it but i never really fish over 80 yards to be honest

 

would you recomond a shockleader for that kind of distance and braid? i wouldnt think so myself

 

thanks jay, really helpfull mate

sirblanksalot

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Posted: 9th Apr 2012 22:30 Post subject:

 

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I suppose rod & reel may be a factor re- distance, i use a spare jrc defender 3.25 + tfg max power reel on my marker and can reach 100yds without a leader,(4oz lead)

 

My spod is a tfg 4.75 with the same reel, 40lb braid straight through(diameter of 15lb mono), rarely need to chuck that past 70 but i'm sure i could if needed.

 

atb jay

bish_471985

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Posted: 10th Apr 2012 10:30 Post subject:

 

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yeah it probably is, the set up feels really balanced and easy to cast but il have to find out this weekend, thanks for the help pal

welder

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Posted: 17th Apr 2012 23:13 Post subject:

 

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The TFG Banana braid works well and doesn't bury itself into the spool on the retrieve so casts well time after time.

 

Right money too.

 

Ian

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luke_bristol Posted: 18th Apr 2012 16:52 Post subject: Spodding for Dummies

 

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Having fished small lakes for years, I'm moving towards gravel pits and spodding

 

I've read a number of articles on spodding, but just want to confirm if the following is correct:

 

Load braid on to your spod reel (I have Fox Horizon braid), up to around 0.5cm from the lip of the spool (any more causes "wind knots" ?)

 

The braid should be tied off to a 20cm leader (I am going to get Berkley Whiplash leader material), with a quick change clip on the other end, which then clips on to the spod.....

 

Is all this correct?! There seems to be a lot of vague and contradictary info out there

 

roosterbooster Posted: 18th Apr 2012 17:36 Post subject:

 

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yes mate that sounds about right, try wetting the braid aswell before you cast should fly off the spool smoother,

nafy118 Posted: 18th Apr 2012 18:35 Post subject:

 

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you want longer than 20cm leader mate, perhaps try 20m

 

but yeh as said wet the braid first

make sure your clipped up and spod away!

lessthanphil Posted: 18th Apr 2012 19:16 Post subject:

 

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Wear a finger stall! A fair few people don't but braid attached to a heavy spod can literally cut your finger off if you put your digit in the wrong place.

The debate will probably go on about whether or not to use braid on a Spod rod, but personally I won't for a few reasons:

 

Braid does NOT stretch anywhere near as much as mono, and you are casting a weight probably close to 6oz or even more, so you are likely to be needing a leader (or mainline) needing to be 20x the weight of the spod with braid to avoid potential crack-offs. (20lb of strain with braid per ounce of load, compared to 10lb of breaking strain with mono).

 

I also like my fingers, a miscast with braid can cut all the way through to the bone, messy and painful :!:

 

Finally, braid may wear through your rod rings, especially the tip and butt eyes as the spod is always under tension on the retrieve. It is something I have seen and indeed had happen to one of my Spod Rods.

 

In my view you are far better off to use a cheap mono which is easily replaced, and match it with a shockleader. In my case 60lb Drennan Grey Greased Weasel (Sea Fishing) which I make sure has a minimum of 4 or 5 turns on the reel when I have my casting drop.

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I have loaded my spod rod with fox horizon braid and finished with a 25m leadcore leader on to the spod - it doesn't seem to "flow" very smoothly through the rod rings when I had a little pull on completion of the setup, presumably the weight of a full spod will overcome this and I'll be whacking the spod out toward the horizon? :D

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I have loaded my spod rod with fox horizon braid and finished with a 25m leadcore leader on to the spod - it doesn't seem to "flow" very smoothly through the rod rings when I had a little pull on completion of the setup, presumably the weight of a full spod will overcome this and I'll be whacking the spod out toward the horizon? :D

 

Why would you put leadcore on a spod :roll: you want a spod to empty on the surface and then retrieve on the surface. Leadcore will make it sink :shock:

 

And leadcore is pants to cast in small lenghts never mind 25 meters

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