Jump to content

Silt rigs


hitchendavid
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am spending a weekend on a lake down south and it is supposedly a hard water. I want my rigs to be spot on as at the moment I don't give my rigs much attention as they haven't really ever let me down (or have they?). Anyway, it has a silty bottom and an avergae depth of about 10feet with plenty of features. Could somebody point me in the right direction please. I've been searching for ages but can't seem to find anything. Also, I don't really want to use lead core. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something I want to start building my confidence up with is the 'chod' rig, except rather than using leadcore or tubing as a leader, just have it all on your main line, and the lead tied on the end using an extremely low breaking strain mono. This ensures that if it becomes snagged, the lead should come right off, and the beads/rig can slide off with ease.

 

I think this was touched upon recently so I'm sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something I want to start building my confidence up with is the 'chod' rig, except rather than using leadcore or tubing as a leader, just have it all on your main line, and the lead tied on the end using an extremely low breaking strain mono. This ensures that if it becomes snagged, the lead should come right off, and the beads/rig can slide off with ease.

 

I think this was touched upon recently so I'm sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction :wink:

 

I took some photos of how I tie it the other day. I will upload them tomorrow and post them up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in deep silt i would use a much longer hooklink say 10-12 inch and after casting out pull the lead free from the silt to make sure the bait has not been pulled into silt :wink:

 

the trouble with doing this is you could mess up your presentation.Also using the chod rig could cause problems unless you know how deep the silt is.

I would use a pop up , ballanced. use a running rig with a light lead say 1-1 1/2 oz max.leave the lead in the silt as this will help set the hook on a take.Use a flat pear lead with a braid hooklink of about 8 inch. The pop up will rise above the silt , works the same way as the chod but you dont have to set any beads. If that makes sense.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically I tie mine as follows.

 

From Lead, all mounted on the mainline:

 

Lead (with swivel cut off) – weak link of low b/s line – large eye swivel – Korda shockleader sleeve – the rig – ESP shock bead – slim float stop (set to required depth)

 

IMG_3062.jpg

 

IMG_3063.jpg

 

In the picture I have not used the weak link as there was a clean bottom with no snags present. If there was weed in the vicinity or any sort of snaggy areas then this would be incorporated in the set up.

I don’t use this rig when fishing into weed but I am working on an idea.

 

As an extra safety measure I have now switched to using a slimmer float stop so the ESP bead will pass over the stop under pressure.

If this fails then the running large eye swivel that the rig is mounted on will pass over the bead under very light pressure.

 

IMG_3068.jpg

 

IMG_3067.jpg

 

I use the shockleader sleeves to stop the swivel and line working at horrible angles whilst playing a fish.

 

IMG_3066.jpg

 

It also lets the rig sit nicely during the cast.

 

IMG_3065.jpg

 

If there is a pretty much uniform lake bed out to the area fishing, I will sometimes use a flying backlead and / or backlead. This gives that extra bit of resistance on any pickup, if required.

I do however, find that a slack line approach works fantastically in most situations as the set up has predominately been used as a single bait approach.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Choddies all the way mate. 8 foot + of leadcore with a 2.5 - 3 inch hooklink of ESP Bristle Filament in 20lb BS with a size 5 Stiff Rigger. Just make sure you use a very bouyant pop up and the Richworth Airo's work like a dream keeping your hooklink up for 12 hours plus.

 

Just make sure the hooklink is slighty curved in though and you will nail them in the bottom lip every time :D

 

Also use slack lines and the lightest possible lead you can get away with to reach your chosen fishing distance :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nige, just a thought for you. I use basically the same set up but instead of the float stop i've started to use one of the new Korda hooklink sinkers. Bit heavier than the float stops and they help to sink the line a little bit.

 

Would the bead slip over a sinker Jez? Not seen one in the flesh.

I suppose it's not too much of an issue if the rig will 'pop' over the bead anyway :?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 foot + of leadcore

 

 

8 feet of leadcore? :shock: Seriously?

 

Think someone is JOKING :shock:

 

I had a safe way of using a Silt rig set-up using a piece of rigid tubing ( I did put up pics somewhere):

A short length of rigid tubing, ring swivel, 2 rubber beads and/or 1 bead and a tail rubber or stop bead.

 

If you want the rig to be able to slide then put the ring swivel on the tubing and at either end use a rubber bead to hold it. The rig can then slide off the tubing in the event of the fish snagging. If you want it fixed then put the tubing into the tail rubber or stop bead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your posts. Alot of these things are a mystery to me - i've never used leadcore or these float stops, or putty. Have I been missing something over the years. The rigs I use are ones when I first fished for carp fifteen years ago.

 

Also, the post re slack lines - I have only ever used slack lines for margin fishing. Is this not the case or can you use it anytime.

 

I have the coated hooklength stuff - which is the best way to use that with silt and these sorts of rigs. I know you can strip a bit here and a bit there but have never really thought of why you would do this or have ever tried it really. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nige, just a thought for you. I use basically the same set up but instead of the float stop i've started to use one of the new Korda hooklink sinkers. Bit heavier than the float stops and they help to sink the line a little bit.

 

Would the bead slip over a sinker Jez? Not seen one in the flesh.

I suppose it's not too much of an issue if the rig will 'pop' over the bead anyway :?

same size as float stops just a bit heavier
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 foot + of leadcore

 

 

8 feet of leadcore? :shock: Seriously?

 

Yes.

 

8 foot + of leadcore

 

 

8 feet of leadcore? :shock: Seriously?

 

Think someone is JOKING :shock:

 

 

Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 foot + of leadcore

 

 

8 feet of leadcore? :shock: Seriously?

 

Yes.

 

8 foot + of leadcore

 

 

8 feet of leadcore? :shock: Seriously?

 

Think someone is JOKING :shock:

 

 

Not joking either. I used to have doubts over using leadcore, like a lot of people do. But i had my choddies set up such a way that the bead would always release if the lead got snagged.

 

Sorry, I am anti Leadcore and many of the reasons why are in this thread:

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=32598

 

It does not take much for the leadcore to kink, and then a lead or bead can get trapped on leadcore, no matter how much pressure you put on the beads CAN get trapped holding the rig in place.

 

I found the pics I mentioned previously on this thread

 

https://forum.carp.com/carp-forum/viewtopic.php?t=44395&highlight=rubber+bead

Safe and usable Helicopter set-up

Get a piece of hard tubing, 1bullet buffer bead, 2 soft rubber beads and a ring swivel or equivalents.

 

I believe I have a pic or 2, from when I was playing with the idea :wink:

Those hooks are something like 1995 patterns so you can see how long I have had an enquiring mind as to what I can play around with and ways to work things out :wink:

 

Helicopterrigwithtubing.jpg

 

Helicopterrigwithtubing001.jpg

 

The top bead being able to slide off the top of the body under minimal pressure means the rig swivel can also slide over any leader knot.

Therefore as far as I'm concerned that means that you can fish an absolute Long Casting set-up safely with a Helicopter rig, or with a Running Lead.

 

 

I remember posting on a thread a while ago about Helicopter rigs and I mentioned the JRC Helicopter beads, and there was also an alternative at the time in Cox and Rawle Beach Beads

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

these are my two ways of fshing in silt

 

1, useing the chod rig but with a difrence i dont have a bead stop on my lead core leader as i feel this is not safe all i do is tye a bit of pva tape at the hight i wont as this melts the bead ( big bore) can come off the leader with no problems .

 

2, use a a lead that is only heavy anuf to get to the spot i need to cast to feather the cast so the lead dont splash down so the lead just setles down nicely and by useing a critacul ballanced bait on a long hook link( 12 inch pluss) the bait will just setle on the silt .

 

if you dont know how deap the silt is you can tigh the pva stop further up the line so if the lead does sink in the silt the bait wont follow it .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...